UKC

Shauna wins again. 3 out of 3, well 4 out of 4 if you include Munich the last WC of 2015.

And she stretches her lead as Melissa missed out on the final, finishing 7th.

No webcast due to the Great Firewall of China but they will get replays up as soon as they can.

Michaela 10th, Tyler 15th and Leah 17th.

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Another probably brilliant performance by Shauna, according to bits of info that made it through.
Could you imagine what FIFA would say if China asked to well fund and host a footie world cup on condition it wasn't televised until they'd checked the footage?
They would be right, too.

In reply to john arran:

I was watching the results live on -line, they were actually properly up to date, the whire square shows when the climber starts and you could see that Shauna flashed the last boulder pretty quick.

The internet problem is that we (the IFSC) are not dealing with China, we are dealing with a sub district of a city region. FIFA would be dealing direct with the central government who are obviously the ones that decide the rules.

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Whoever is in control at that end, the lack of live streaming is not good. There are plenty of countries who will be equipped for and allow live streaming so why so many IFSC comps in China?

In reply to johncook:

Unfortunately there are not many countries applying for events. We could apply strict criteria about all sorts of things but then 50% of events would not happen and then where would we be. If we had more applications than calendar slots then it would be easier but currently we don't.

The webcast problem in China is known about and therefore can be dealt with ie plan to record and then show later. But let us not forget that 2 years ago in Briancon (or was it 3) we had no connection so no live webstream. Last year in Toronto the IFSC server crashed so we had manual results. China is not the only place that we have problems but it does get focused on eg the athletes grumble about food and getting ill in China, well more people got ill at the BWC in Millau (France) 3 years ago after eating sea food in 1 particular restaurant than on any single trip to China (me included,I had the squits for ages!)

Max calendar slots = 8 per discipline. Number of times that applications has exceeded his number = 1 in 27 years.

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Thanks for the info, but if there was a live stream online how come we didn't get to hear about it? There was nothing at all on the IFSC homepage at all from qualifiers right until after the finals.

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Maybe it is a matter of getting countries more interested. Does the BMC not care that we don't have any rounds here in the UK. Have they been approached and turned the idea down? What about Australia, the Netherlands, South and Central America etc. I sure someone with marketing savvy and contacts could sell the comps to many places. The advertisers, I am sure would like a greater exposure. Is the IFSC proactive in pursuing new venues?

Once I know the results I tend to lose interest in watching an event. One less viewer, one less chance for the advertisers and the country concerned to make an impact on me!

The comps are not widely advertised/publicised anyway. We have a competitor who is world class, but the publicity machine has not managed to get her some exposure outside the closed world of the climbing press.

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Not being able to watch live stream or on tv is no different to when F1 goes to Sky in a couple of years time.

Nice win Shana

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

OK, I get the point about the IFSC not exactly being flooded with potential event hosts. But then at least make the footage that does get released worth watching. Is there one single complete sequence of a climber doing a problem in the crappy qualification "highlights", released around 24 hours after qualifications had finished? I didn't notice any on my quick click through.

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Replays up now

Bouldering finals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ic0jR9eBdTs&feature=youtu.be
bouldering semi-finals: youtube.com/watch?v=W7le1SZ5BzM&