UKC

1hr gym session, what to do??

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 maybe_si 05 May 2016
Having recently started an office job, I'm now doing considerably less climbing midweek, I've decided that lunchtime gym sessions are the way to go. I figure I have approx 45-50mins, 3 times a week to get as climbing/cardio fit as possible... any thoughts on how to structure a session?

The only thing I can't really use is a treadmill as I'm still in the final stages of meniscal repair rehab, I have been assured that a cross trainer is now ok though.

Any suggestions?
Dom Connaway 05 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

I would have thought seeing a sports physio would be a good idea. Did you have an MRI? Knowing the details of the damage to the meniscus would possibly help you to work out a plan.

More generally, I'm on my second cross-trainer having killed the first through over use so you can take it that I'm a fan of them. Perhaps 30mins on that follwed by 15mins circuit training with free weights. Use dumbells in preference to bars as that asks more of the stabilising muscles—good for climbing.

Good luck!
 Shani 05 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

What are your objectives? General strength, prehab, rehab, climbing supplementation, fat loss, hypertrophy? If you can give a bit more info you'll get more specific advice.

one thing I'd suggest is to avoid indoor runn7ng machines as their repetitive movement is not ideal in developing a robust physique and may lead to excessive wear and tear.
OP maybe_si 05 May 2016
In reply to Dom Connaway:

Meniscal repair I.e. it's already been operated on, stitched back together etc... physio says running is a no but cross trainer is ok.

Looking at a mix of fat loss and general strength gain, my finger strength and technique is pretty good so am just hoping that using the gym mid week will help to boost my climbing
 dsh 05 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:
Lifting weights (and bodyweight exercises) is best for fat loss as more muscle mass means you burn more calories, plus you want to gain strength.

I get 30 minutes lunch, and have a gym at work and usually manage to get in a routine of something like.

3 sets of pullups, dips, plank (10 of each then rest)
3 sets of bench press
3 sets of bent over dumbell rows
3 sets of bicep curls
Some stretches at the end
Post edited at 22:36
 aln 05 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

Go to the pub.
 nniff 06 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

Get some rock rings and hang them over whatever pull-up bar they have in the gym. Get some funny looks, and invite others to have a go.

And,

Concept 2 rower - 2,000m in under 8 minutes is a good place to start - there's no hiding from the numbers on those things. Make sure you look at the Concept 2 web site first to make sure your technique is on the right lines.
OP maybe_si 06 May 2016
In reply to nniff:

Thanks for the suggestion but rowing machines + being competitive + bad knee = trouble!!
 Dave Garnett 06 May 2016
In reply to nniff:


> Concept 2 rower - 2,000m in under 8 minutes is a good place to start - there's no hiding from the numbers on those things. Make sure you look at the Concept 2 web site first to make sure your technique is on the right lines.

By an odd coincidence I used one of these in a hotel gym last night. I haven't used a rowing machine for years but I really enjoyed doing a quick 3K (although I did it in a relaxed 15 minutes, not the pace you're suggesting).

Much better than giving myself shin splints on the running machine.
 nniff 06 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

I suggest a rowing machine because I've had two meniscus repairs on my left knee and can use rowing machines whereas running is now foolhardy. When I say 'repair' I really mean trimming the bits off and throwing them away
 planetmarshall 06 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

> Looking at a mix of fat loss and general strength gain, my finger strength and technique is pretty good so am just hoping that using the gym mid week will help to boost my climbing

With minimal time, Tabata style protocols and supersets are a good option ( the breakingmuscle website is a good resource ). Vary the number of sets and weights used to find a balance between hypertrophy and recruitment for strength gain. Presumably as a climber you'll want more of the latter and less of the former.

 BGG 13 May 2016
In reply to nniff:

My PB in my younger years was 6:35 for 2k. I thought I was going to die. I reckon I'd be about 7:25 now may years on.

 Roadrunner5 13 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

Why can't you run after work? late in the evening and then use the gym for strength?
 alasdair19 13 May 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

I made the biggest leap in my climbing standard warm ing up on a rower then dead hanging. I had. A big sloper over a door frame but a rock ring would be better. useful to do an 8 week block of this. then try something a little different.

Specificity..
and being analytical about where your weaknesses are.

However if you want to keep fit more generally. warm up in whatever isn't too mind numbing then if doing weights either 3 to 5 reps at max or 20 to 30. In theory this should build outright strength/power or endurance without adding bulk
OP maybe_si 13 May 2016
In reply to Roadrunner5:

Still recovering from knee surgery I love running in the evenings but can't for another 6 months or so

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