UKC

Hello, going to Cairngorms for first time in summer next week. This time Im bringing a friend that I would like to introduce easy multipitch trad too. Bought Scottish rock volume 1 and its full of routes vs and above. Need something below vs like s and vdiffs. Can anyone recommend a guide book or a crag, route etc? Or a place to chuck a top rope? Thanks

In reply to Scarab:

Next week? I think you might find quite a bit of snow still around. These photo's were taken two weeks ago 24th April.

http://donthaveone-owen.blogspot.co.uk/2016/04/its-not-over-yet.html

In reply to Scarab:

Afterthought Arete should be clear of snow. But you'll need an ice axe and snow skills to approach it. Many of the local crags are one pitch or too hard (like Creag Dubh). Huntly's Cave can be made into multi-pitch of your friend doesn't mind steep juggy rock, although Cave Route (HS 4b) is the easiest where it's a natural place to belay (and many folk do).

In reply to Scarab:

Afterthought arete is a cracking route and currently free of snow for the most part. I did a circuit of fiacaill ridge and afterthought arete and had an awesome day. You won't need 2 axes for these either

In reply to Scarab:

Another possibility, which might be free of snow is Final Selection (Diff., 2 pitches). This is a superb route and IMHO significantly better than Afterthought Arete.

In reply to Scarab: Pretty much everything worth climbing is in Scottish Rock. If nothing is particularly suitable, then basically you've picked the wrong part of the UK, as the Cairngorms is well down the list when it comes to really accessible, straightforward and high quality easier routes. I've taken novices out on several Cairngorm crags and won't be rushing back.

However, Western Buttress Route on Stac Pollaidh is a great route to take novices on, although it is a few hours further North.

That said for rigging top ropes Kinguissie Crag (in Highland Outcrops guidebook) is one of the better single pitch crags in the Central Highlands.

In reply to Scarab:

Alternative guidebooks which are more likely to show you what you are looking for would be the SMC Cairngorms guide book, and for non-mountan crags (like Huntly's Cave mentioned above) the SMC North-East Outcrops guide book is the one you need.

In reply to Mark Bannan:


Definitely need an axe to get to that unless you ab down it. Mind you, both of those options are better than the gully in summer nick!

In reply to Martin W:

Huntly's Cave isn't in NE Outcrops, it is however covered by SMC Highland Outcrops.

However it is a moot point, the OP already has the best guidebook for Huntly's. The photo topo in Scottish Rock Vol 1 is far better than the hand drawn one in the SMC guide.

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Ah, but the new Highland Outcrops, out in two weeks, time, is much better and has everything away from the hills.

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:


Apologies, my mistake.

In reply to Scarab:

This time of yeah it's normally better to head for places like Garbh Beinn south face, The cobbler, Binnein Shaus etc being lower and south facing, Arran is also a good bet.

In reply to Scarab:

Thanks a lot for all the advice, really do appreciate it! Must have been a good winter season and I missed it!