UKC

Don't know who was doing the Fitclub write-up this week but think they are probably still getting home after a busy day at the crag. So this is a placeholder for now just so anyone impatient to share their week's news can do so without more ado!

In reply to hms:

Thanks hms / dan. The giant pile of rubble is still in the drive. Ought to get cracking on that. Suspect that'll take up a lot of next week.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
3 core session - 1, oops
1 climb - yes! (two actually)
1 run/bike/walk - yes! (two actually)

Weight - 12st 10lbs (2lbs loss)

M - 14kms mtb Penhydd @ Afan
T - Rest
W - Routes at Navigation
T - Core
F - Rest
S - 22kms mtb Wall @ Afan
S - Trad on gower

As it was a bank hol on Monday, I got a ride in. Then out with the club on Weds. Two 6as at Navigation (2nd) so nothing fancy, but it's a good start. Then a bike ride on my birthday followed by a nice sunny day down the Gower. Started late due to tides and finished early. So definitely making progress. Just need to start getting to Navigation with a partner to get on WFD.

Next week:
3 core session (or tip runs)
1 climb
1 run/bike/longish walk (some kind of cardio basically)

In reply to hms:
Thanks Helen! I was just about to get ready for bed and hoping someone was going to get the thread started so I could post this first Hope whoever it was (Dan/Alex/Tony?) is having a good day out...

STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (Ft7B) [Done]
- The Eastwood Traverse (Ft7B+)
- Do a selection of other new Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits. [Did Wright's Traverse and Nuda's Tartan, both 7B this week.]
- Arch Enemies (7c+) ?

MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s

LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

M: Went up to do Wright's Traverse (f7B) again (4th session.) I was feeling confident after doing Moffatrocity on the Saturday, and felt good. Warmed-up then fired off the crux in isolation three times in a row, then got on the problem. Almost did it first go but foot slipped exiting the crux and I got boxed fighting to stay on, so fell off the next move. Second go I didn't rest enough, then after a good 30 minute rest I ticked it third go.
T: Shoulder rehab.
W: Shoulder rehab & core.
T: Fingerboard session doing max hangs. Did the 18mm edge with +31kg, 2 finger pocket with +4.5kg and roof pinches with +4.5kg. Usual 10 second hangs with 4 reps on each hold type.
F: Shoulder rehab.
S: rest
S: Went to Raven Tor. Did Boot Boys Start (f6C) and A Little Extra (Direct Start Problem) (f7A) both very quickly then spent a couple of hours trying Rattle and Hump Start (f7A+) again. Bit disappointed not to do this, but I did make some psychological progress, ie got to the point where I know how I can do it now and just need to go back fresh. It's fair to say conditions were fairly poor too. By about 1pm it was roasting so we left and went to Nuda's Tartan. Was tired after the Tor so was really pleased to be able to pull Nuda's Tartan (f7B+) out the bag. Another good day.

Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work.

Reflecting on this week, today was a good day, but I was particularly pleased with doing Wright's on Monday. It didn't mean as much to me as Moffatrocity, but it takes about 2.5 minutes to climb and is as long as many routes in the Peak. It roughly breaks down as a long V4 in to a V2 in to a shake out on steep ground (it takes about a minute to here) then in to a V6 in to a long V3 to another (very good) shake (about another minute to here, excluding time at the shake out) before another V3 to finish. It's all overhanging so no 'rests' until the second shake at the end. On my first session this year, when I got to the first shake-out I just had nothing left. 3 sessions on Wright's and 3 on Moff seemed to have made a massive difference, and this time I was able to feel fairly solid on the V6 crux after a minute's steep climbing. I'm feeling fairly confident now about getting on some routes without needing to do any endurance training.

Injury catalogue: strange finger injury (left index) still the same, no reduction in swelling. Second finger niggle (right middle) from last week seems ok now. Left shoulder bumbling along - mostly ok on the majority of problems, but painful on anything a bit gaston-y / press-y.

Hoping to get out in the evenings a couple of times this coming week if the weather is ok.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 2lb. Have been doing pretty well this week - think I'm starting to edge back down again after plateauing at 11st2 for a couple of months.

Si

In reply to hms:

I was debating whether to put a starter post up too.

First, a request for advice - hopefully should be able to get fingerboard and counterweight stuff sorted out in the new house soon. Probably going to be able to mount it straight into an exterior wall over a door frame (house has been extended so exterior walls are now interior!). Has anyone rigged up one of these before and if so what did you do about the counterweight - some sort of eyelet or hook or something? I've always had a timber frame before to avoid drilling into walls so I just had a sling over the frame...

Second, my week.
- Monday was a busy day house moving.
- Tuesday I don't think I did anything much, more house admin
- Wednesday I went out after work and did Solstice (7b) at Winspit. Baffling first time up bit got it second go. Felt tough.
- work was busy late week which combined with house admin meant nothing done.
- went for an hour or so ride on my commute bike Saturday morning which was a challenge. I think I'm basically screwed for the Dragon Tour, I'm clinging into the hope that the commuting and challenging myself on bigger "hills" with the commuters gear ratio is making me push hard on pedals and therefore is addressing weaknesses. However, that's probably self delusion and I'm desperately short of mileage.

Weather looks set to break and work later in the week looks unhelpful for after work climbing but hopefully use the opportunity to progress house faff and get some training in.

In reply to AJM:

An expansion bolt into the stone with an extender with a pulley on clipped in. A campus rung either side of the bolt to save moving the weight between LH and RH hangs

Thanks for the post, hms.


STGs (last week):
* run, yoga every weekday [nearly]
* shoulder rehab every day [nearly]
* no hard climbing sessions [nearly]
* don't get injured [nearly]
next week: kalymnos - get on some 6cs and see what happens! [oops!]

STGs (this week):
* don't get injured
* shoulder rehab every day
* yoga every weekday
* get on some 7as and see what happens!

MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs

LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)


M: ran up to C.O. & linked 1-45. Saw someone cruise the root and got some new beta for 45-46 (suddenly it's easy!), and worked out a couple of new options for 46-47 (both still tough; best one: keep low and left hand goes -under- right). 47-48 is easy with feet in the right place... shoulder rehab (3 sets of 15 reps of 5 exercises). super chilled evening yoga sent me to sleep! left arm feeling better than late last week, but not fixed yet. REST tomorrow!
T: up the big hill. 200m gain over 2km in 15 mins; bit of a rest at the top! Feels quite slow when it's written down. shoulder rehab. Quick core yoga.
W: really fun tai chi, then went to the gym. did the 5s circuit, but was so pumped by the end I was climbing terribly. went home; forgot to do shoulder rehab
T: pilates; quick gym session. left arm not better, really should rest it. found a 7a that might go! no doubt it'll be reset by the time i'm back from kaly. shoulder rehab.
F: full on rest - got a massage, and that's it.
S: travelling; quick couple of routes on arrival at Kalymnos; one set of shoulder rehab
S: first full day in kalymnos: onsighted 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6c, 6c; flashed 6b+ (draws in, belayed before); shoulder rehab x3

Didn't really achieve any of my goals last week, as my shoulder injury from the previous week flared up and I didn't rest it properly, plus felt really knackered. But overall a great week: bagged a couple of 6cs, which was my goal for -next- week, and enjoyed a couple of fine sunsets and Greek food. Either grading here's very soft, or there's something magical in the air... could well be both!

In reply to humptydumpty:


Great effort - but your STG is too easy, you should clearly be trying a 7a!

In reply to hms:

I don't think it is my week, I only filled in for last weekend, but I'll do some stats in between work today if nobody else owns up?

In reply to hms:

Cheers HMS and to whoever may end up doing the stats.

Well it was a crap week. No climbing due to no time and I was ill. Probably not a bad time to be ill as I couldn't have climbed anyway.

Feeling better now and have a great opportunity to be assessed for a training plan by someone going through the new performance coach award. Basically I get assessed physically, technically/tactically, diet and lifestyle wise. I'll then get a plan drawn up by my coach which will have been discussed/amended by the other coaches going through the first course (mainly team GB people). So that's nice! It should give me the kick up the arse I need to get really organised again as I keep plugging away at what seems to be the receding target of 8a. Just been a bit impossible with house move etc these last couple of weeks.

In other good news I will soon have regular Mondays off and a partner free on the same day who wants to do the same 8a. That's the kind of thing that can make a real difference. The only downside being he may well smash it quickly and want to go elsewhere.

Speaking of getting organised i'd better get off here and get some jobs done so I can train tonight

In reply to hms:

various niggles continuing, the only one which is giving me real cause for concern being my left ring finger. It's ok if totally and tightly shrouded in tape but I've stayed well clear of crimps. Did get outside which was a plus!

M - Was this the bank holiday? Don't think I got any climbing done at all but a 3 mile walk.
T - Rather rushed late evening fingerboard session - as many 7/3/6/3 as I could cram into the limited time.
W - cycle commute. Cycle home via UCR. Circuits - warmup, the 1on:1off on the 6c+ and 7a circuits (10 circuits in total), then 5min on 5min off on the 6b. Finger did not like the 6c+ much, the 7a is more slopers so far less finger strain.
T - cycle commute. Core session in evening.
F - bouldering at Ringroad. Managed a couple of V3s. Couldn't get a V4 cos I couldn't reach the start hold even from a stacked mat! Tried a V5 tranverse which was very good but needed a spotter to move and anchor the mats on the slopey ground. Good long session and v tired by the end. Evening - lots of bicep curls and shoulder presses
S - 5 miles urban working, lots of bicep curls and shoulder presses
S - TCA for a circuit session. Oppressively humid. Did the excellent 6b+ thug circuit lots and lots of times. Got cross at the short 6c as I kept falling off a crossover from 1 sloper blob to another - given the conditions I'd have been more surprised if I'd stuck it. Similar story on the 7a circuit. 3 mile walk in the afternoon.

In reply to hms:

Last/Next week’s goals:
Cycle >40miles total – complete fail – not sure how it’s going to fit in this week either
Edit skiing video - fail
3x rehab sessions – 2x only - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – fail - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?! – tick - repeat
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – fail – repeat
RP the easier Malham potential project

May goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweak – mummy taping has stopped it getting worse, but it isn’t getting better very quickly
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
1x week aero-cap
Start to high Break, 8a+
Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b?
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; bolt North Wales quick project


Week 19:
M - Evening at Parisella’s. Warm-up, then tried Trigger Cut. Got shot hole a couple of times, but move afterwards felt a bit wiggy on shoulder – think this and the link into Almost Familiar will need to be left until later in the year. Then linked Broken Heart into Parisella’s original (7C/+?) – first step to doing the link into Almost Familiar, but no belayer about. Tried We’ve a beaver (7C) a few times – shoulder crunched a bit – did it from half way (7A+) and from CB start (7B+). Felt so much better than last Monday’s Longridge flop.
T - Longridge; good beasting. Did Bend to the End: Low (7c) after a quick re-acquaintance with the Low life traverse to warm-up. Got reet pumped being overly static on the highball bit of bend! Did some other bits and bobs and re-worked traverse sections before trying to RP Middle bit plus (7c+). Shook out in the kneebar/wobbly block and promptly had a foot pop 3 moves later – eegit! Played around optimising first 3rd and got the hard bit on lock-down. Drove home knackered, then did 70 incline press-ups and 300 core movements to finish me off.
W - Rest
T - Back to CyL as partner bailed. Good scene; no need for all my pads! Warmed up then had a go at start to high break. Bit pumped getting to wobbly block; shake out here not as good as I wanted. Fell entering Mr Skin. Re-worked Grots with Adam’s cross-over beta, then repeated Middle Bit despite being a bit knackered. Used wiggy bat hang and down-climbed into Adam’s kneebar to check out all possible rest options. Start to central ice-fall repeat at the end showed fitness is coming along nicely. 1on/1off static core; 6x plank, 4x side plank & 6x bridge.
F - Pre-work aero-cap FoC 15x 1on/1off felt like hard work after previous night’s exertions. Bicep curls and shoulder press. 3x10 @12kg Eccentrics and Randall stretch.
S - Lakes – Catbells and Maiden Moor via “Julia Bradbury” route. Lovely day out in the fells with the lady.
S - Introduced the lady to scrambling via Sharp Edge/Halls Fell Ridge combo – she did great

In reply to Dandan:

I don't think it was me either. I only filled in the week before. I can't do them today, but am happy to volunteer for a couple of weeks.

In reply to TonyB:

Seeing as so many people have already posted, shall we dispense with the stats for a week? Also, typically I have actually got some work to do today so I won't have time to do them until this evening, unless someone wants to do them of course.

In reply to Tyler:

Probably brick rather than stone, although there may well be a concrete or similar lintel to drill into. Something along those lines should work though I guess...

In reply to Dandan:
STG = keep up training but also be sensible enough to skip a day if body demands.
MTG = Another 7a+ in Romania (going for 3 days around 2nd May bank holiday).
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. (DONE - 1x7a+)
BHAG = 8a by 40

Morning all

Afraid I can't help out with stats this week, its all kicking off at work. Would agree with the vote to skip this week.

Mon - 2xTRX rings

Tues - c30 mins max hang fingerboard. then sets of 3 boulders B2B (cV3 ish) followed by 6 mins constant climbing at c6a/+ish. Repeated those 4 times.

Weds / Thurs - rest. enforced on thurs with crazy busy work.

Fri - c1.5 hrs strength and conditioning. Sit up, weights etc.

Sat - c2 hrs at Parsons Green bouldering. Mostly trying cV5 problems. Didn't get any but got to the last move of 1 that felt impossible to start with so pleased with that.

Sun - very sunny Winspit. Warmed up on a couple of easy ones incl the excellent Stone Mason (6a+). Then 3 goes on Red Rain (6c+) which I thought was also excellent but felt tough for the grade. Very 3d and lots of powerful laybacking and jamming. Didn't get it clean so will have to go back. Epic traffic on the way home ;-(

In reply to hms:

A good varied week this week Really enjoyed the bouldering and had a fantastic race on Sunday. Good week.

Mon: Rest
Tue: Rest
Wed: Stockport Awesome Walls. Climbed really well and went for things that my old self wouldn't have gone for. Brilliant. Jumped for the top hold on a V5 and flashed it! Grades are much easier here than Stoke wall, flashed most of the V3/4s and one V5. Loads of volume, hard session.
Thu: Churnet session with a mate repeating the problems on Audio Block as it was his first time there. Lovely evening and great to be on rock.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Rest
Sun: MTB XC racing at Harlow Wood, Mansfield. Such an amazing course, really fast dry and dusty, loved it! Looking forward to the next one now on May 22nd.

Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 2-3x 2 TICK!
Bike: 2x 1
Complete the Midland's XC MTB race on Sunday. TICK!
Have a go at Too Drunk.
Weight: maintain max of 144 lbs 144.5 +

STGs (End June 2016):
Tick remaining indoor red circuit (V3/4) 4/20 Two more last Sunday!
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (green V5/6) 0/2

MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Complete Midlands XC series.
Complete National MTB XC at Cannock.

I'm skipping again this week but I think maybe I'll be back posting next week. Might revise some goals a bit. Still aiming for a good (for me) time at the Bristol 10k this Sunday so will want to report on that. Take care all.

In reply to AJM:

I've a similar internal/extension wall that i stuck an expansion bolt in; the bolt didn't take very well and won't tighten without rotating. I suggest using a glue in for these reasons (think how poorly an expansion bolt would work in soft rock like sandstone)

In reply to Ally Smith:

Must have just missed you in the cave on Monday. Do you use the knee bar on Trigger Cut?

In reply to Ally Smith:

ditto - it is the only doorway in our house that is structural enough to risk mounting anything above. To put up the fingerboard we got a largeish offcut of 20mm ply from the climbing wall when they were doing some alterations and fixed that to the wall with umpteen rawl plugs & big screws. The fingerboard was then just screwed on to the board. I don't see why a hook or something similar to take a qdraw/revolver couldn't be mounted in the same way if the backboard was big enough (which mine isn't). It would spread the strain through lots of distributed attachment points rather than hoping that that single bolt was going to hold!

In reply to hms:

In lieu of psyche videos / stats, here is this week's amusing short read

http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/society/rock-climbers-have-excellent-wee...

In reply to JayK:


D'uh! Do bears $hit in the woods?

In reply to hms:

Good week for me this week, I'm very close to proclaiming myself injury-free, I can basically climb as hard as I want to but I do still get a slight elbow ache after a session so I won't jump the gun quite yet.

M: Nothing really, few handstands
T: Indoor routes; decided to go for some hard stuff, had 2 goes on an 8a, it's really well set, all about endurance and not cruxy at all. It could be a little soft but I managed it in 2 hangs on the second go, I can see this going soon!
W: Fingerboard and bodyweight antagonists. No real handstand progress, flexibility has stalled too, harrumph. Planche progression feels ok though.
T: Indoor boulders; Partner bailed so I did boulder link ups, 6 sets of 5 or 7 routes without coming off the wall. Completely knackered me and I didn't go above V3, my old training plan had triple the sets and up to V8! (I never came close to managing it)
F: Rest. Saving myself for Saturday
S: Outdoor routes, Blacknor Central/South. Really nice day, bit muggy in the morning but the sun burned it off after lunch. Mega mileage for me, I did 10 routes; 3+, 5, 6a+, 6b, 7a, 7a, 7a+, 6c, 7a+, 6c+, all onsight bar the second 7a+ which felt so completely impossible that I bailed off the route. The logbooks reveal that Psychosomatic Addict (7a+) is clearly not the same as when it was bolted, something must have fallen off.
I wanted to do 4 '7's in a day, something I don't think I've managed before, but my awful guide reading skills let me down. I accidentally did a 6c while trying to climb the 7a+, after the 7a+ failure I tried to climb another 7a but actually did the 6c+ next to it. Logbooks show the 7a has been downgraded to 6c+ anyway so it just wasn't to be.
I felt surprisingly fresh after that many routes, elbows did a magnificent job too.
S: DIY, finished painting my hallway woodwork, in between enjoying the sunshine.

I'm really pleased with my elbows this week, especially after Saturday, the last two weeks they let me down when we went outside but they didn't show any sign of trouble this time around.
Mrs Dandan has been getting her teeth into plenty more 7a's (and 7a+!) , she might be more psyched than me! I'm trying to get her to join the fitclub but she's a busy girl.

Last weeks STG (next week):
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside) - TICK
5x10 second free handstands - 3/5
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed - NOPE
Repeat 4x7a laps - NOPE (partner bailed)

Last weeks STG (next week):
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside)
5x10 second free handstands
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed
Repeat 4x7a laps
Get back on the indoor 8a

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - nearly there
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan - Physio says not quite yet
Get outside a couple of times - 3/2 - hoping to get out next 2 weekends too!
Lap indoor 7a+ 4 times


LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between

In reply to AJM:
I have a fingerboard above the door (into brickwork) and I put a chin-up bar across the top of the doorway. As long as you aren't 6ft plus or have tiny hobbit doorways then you can still walk through without headbutting the chin up bar and the bar can be used to hang the counterweight over, seems to work quite well.

EDIT: I also had exactly the same experience of Solstice, although I didn't have the second go to get the tick. No doubt i'll have to work it out all over again at some point.

In reply to Si dH:

Yep, either that or chilling on the beach the rest of this week

In reply to hms:

I was trying to avoid the backing board if possible - I've got the frame reassembled upstairs for foot on campus and for some other fb stuff so this is for downstairs and I'd prefer to keep it relatively compact - the fingerboard itself is going to be a rail so that and a few bolts would be fairly minimalist...

This week was a bit slack for me on the training, but made a big step towards the 8a by actually getting on one.

Mon - Core
Tue - Short Circuits/Short rests. This is a weird one for me. I'm doing this on part of the 7b+ circuit at our local wall which I find surprisingly hard. I'm pretty solid on the 7c circuit, but find this harder. I think due to more rounded holds and long reaches. Anyway it feels better to work on an area that is harder. The goal is to climb a 10-12 move section 12 times within relatively short rests. I'm going to be more systematic with this about recording the number that I do. Followed this with continuous climbing.
Wed - Rest (work commitments)
Thur - Rest
Friday - I knew that I wouldn't be able to get out at the weekend due to family commitments so took a day of annual leave and went to Chee Dale to get on Aberration (8a). Firstly, I think the route is ace. I'm certainly happy to put the required time in to red point it. It's supposed to be soft 8a. It's 30m long, so possibly a rare endurance based route in the Peak. I think it's 9 bolts in total. It goes up for two bolts, then follows a great traverse for 6 bolts, then finishes straight up. Logistically this isn't the easiest to work or strip, but I think it's manageable. As it is awkward to work, I thought I'd try and get small sections wired, rather than approach the whole thing. The 6th bolt is fitted with what seems to be an in-situ screwgate that I assume aids in stripping the route. Therefore, I thought that I'd just work the first 6 clips. I'm very happy with the section from the ground to the 3rd clip. Then there is a delicate traverse to a huge undercling held together with sika from which you clip the fourth bolt. I didn't link from the ground to the 4th clip, but I linked the 3rd to 4th many times and can't see this link being difficult. The 4th-6th section is pretty tough. I did link this, but struggled to repeat it. I spoke with someone who has done it and got different beta for this section. There was a low undercut that I'd missed. I'm pretty keen to try this new beta. Although I didn't try any further, I can see that the new beta is going to be better as I'd get the hold from which you clip the 6th bolt with the left hand. THis is much more logical to follow the next sequence. I'm really keen to get back on it and can imagine getting to a stage where I could link through this section rather reasonably. From then on it's unknown. I've been told there is some hard sideways climbing, an ok rest and then a V5 crux. This is then followed by some easy (I was told 6b) climbing to the chain. If anyone has done this route, then I'd be very happy for suggestions of which parts to concentrate. My goal for the next session would be: ensure the first section is ingrained (link ground to 4th clip), establish a better sequence for the 5th-6th bolts (link 3rd-6th) and to try the crux (6th-8th).
Sat - short circuits/long rests. I'm doing part of the 8a+ circuit. This is very fingery. I made a modicum of progress. I am pretty solid at moves 1-10 (I did them 11 out of 12 times) but only made 1-11 once. I can do 9-12 most of the time when fresh, but am not solid at it. Followed by continuous climbing and then core.
Sun - fairly hard boulders/long rests. This was a bit of a halfhearted session.

Goals for next week
4 training sessions + 2 core sessions
1 day climbing outside

Goals for this month
3 more sessions on Aberration. By the end of the month: have sequence for all of the moves and be able to link large sections of the route. I will refine what these sections are as I get further in. My wife and son will be away for the May half term week, so that is an excellent opportunity to make some real progress.
Training goals
Link moves 1-12 of 8a+ circuit. Ideally push past this to half way point (this is 7c+).
Record progress on both training circuits, to follow improvements.

This weekend I'll be in North Wales at a friend's brithday. I should have the Saturday free and would be keen for either boulder or sport climbing. I know it's a fairly long shot, but will anyone be around. Otherwise I was thinking of heading down to Parisella's on my own.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Soft 7B+ with a knee

In reply to JayK:


So says Doylo - but i just fall out of his kneebar and have to use a hideous spike and different foothold; horses for courses, innit...

In reply to TonyB:

I did Aberration (8a) a couple of years ago. I had a good flash go with Joughton one evening, and then went back after re-growing skin and RP'd fairly easily; conditions made a huge difference to how hard it felt, so plan to get on it on cloudy days, or before the sun gets on it - humid evenings down the dale are a no go.

I remember doing the crux with a very high foot and then using tenuous hand holds to go out right - i think this is slightly unconventional beta for someone of 6 foot plus! there are a couple of more hard moves, but no where near as tenuous before moving up into the easier finish (f6b+ ish from memory - you shouldn't be dropping it from here)

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally, Last Friday was overcast and felt pretty fine for most of the day, but on the last go it suddenly felt really humid and greasy. It sounds like it's worth getting up a bit earlier and getting the better conditions. It's an impressive effort giving it a good flash go. My friend and I thought that the climbing was very hard to read. I'm not 6 foot, so imagine I might use different beta on the crux.

In reply to TonyB:

I think Chris who I was with when we saw you at Rubicon is also psyched for Aberration and went to try it yesterday. I'll find out how he got on and let you know if he has any secret beta!

In reply to hms:
Cheers for getting the thread started.

Mon: Long boulder, lots of V3-5 circuit.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Boulder mileage, hard boulder, rings.
Thurs: Rest.
Fri: Min on 2 mins off x10, 8 mins on 8 mins off x3.
Sat: Fingerboard, boulder problem doubles, 8 mins on 8mins off x3, core.
Sun: Supposed to be sorting various stuff out at home, bunked off and went to Brean. Totally knackered from Saturday but had a great day in the sun falling off stuff and eating icecream. Did some token pressups.

In reply to Si dH:

That would be great. Not so much for the beta but I could do with another partner as Ian is away for a couple of weeks.
Tony

In reply to TonyB:
Sorry, apparently he tried Celebration instead in the end and decided it was hard, so I'm not sure if he'll be immediately keen for Aberration still, but I'll let him know.

In reply to hms:

Didn't post last week. Not much "proper" exercise although Saturday was a 12 shift of outdoor DIY

This week gone
M - nil
T - Cycle - 18km with 458m ascent
W -
Th - run - 9.2km with 183m ascent
Fri - bouldering at Ubley Warren rocks in the mendips. Mostly easy stuff as with kids
S -
Sun - run 8.6km with 330m ascent

Much more in the rhythm of training this week.
Strange pain in left hand, between index and middle finger and in little finger, also - tingly sharp pain occasionally when I catch it unusually. No particular problem when generally climbing unless I bash it. Will see how it develops.

This month 593m running ascent / 1500m - on target.
Cycling - target was previously too high for the amount I'm riding. Reducing it to 2000m per month. If I hit that this month I'll increase it.
Cuillin ridge at the end of the month, weather permitting.

In reply to hms:

Thanks for the placeholder hms.

My recovery from shinsplnts continues. Wasn;t able to get any cycling in this week, but I did do some running ...

m - two very short runs with GF of 1k & 2k - no pain!
t - rest and still no pain
w - John Carr 5k #1 24:21 not quite racing, but happy with that after a months with no running
t - rest and still no pain, feel quite stiff though.
f - off to venice with GF
s - venice
s - 4km run around venice giardini

Second John Carr 5k coming up this week and considering a 10k off road run at the weekend.

In reply to hms:

Just to check, is anyone currently expecting to start it next week?

If not, can someone do the stats and start it next week?

In reply to AJM:

I'm happy to do it, but won't be able to post until 8 or 9pm. Would this be OK with everyone?

In reply to hms:

I am getting round to week write-up, honest. But for a random outburst, we (Women's Climbing Symposium) just won an award at the Women's Sport Trust awards!!!

In reply to hms:

In danger of missing two weeks so let's go with what I can remember. Week before last I did my usua Deot visit then Malham on the Sunday where I failed to get much further on MO unless you break the route down to atomically small parts (I wafted my left foot at the crucial foothold on the first crux from the ground, this is progress over just kicking at it wildly!).

Last week work was vile and so I did less climbing and no yoga. Looked like summer he arrived which allowed me to abandon MO in favour of Kilnsey (where I traditionally fare less well). Got on NMJTC which I got very close on beginning of last year and then went backwards so I thought after a winter's bouldering (and being lighter than I was early last year) I'd piss it. What a shock, really struggled to do the moves but it was very dust and and it is beta intensive with awkward clips. By end of day I had the moves sorted but wasn't close to linking it, hopefully this week I'll get a better idea if I'm close but looks like the weather night force a return to Malham!

In reply to hms:

A better week of training and two outside trips. Portland is never bad, and managed to lead 4 routes before ankle got too tired. Hopefully it will come. Odd time now going back to climbing with both feet as I'd just got really good at one-legged climbing and now I'm sub-par at normal climbing...

M - Froggatt v4 before it rained
PM climbing unit 40 problems to v5
T - hour Physio circuits class at hospital
Fingerboard
W - fingerboard
Body Balance class
T - CapPow, campus, conditioning
F - 1on2off, conditioning
S - Boulder, conditioning, campus
S - Cuttings routes to 6a+ lead onsight, boulders 4xf5+, 3xf6A swimming, fish and chips.