UKC

We were down the local crag last week playing on some trad lines, HS, VS5a then got onto a HVS on toprope, so went up and started putting gear in to see what the crack was, and found up to just below half height two bits of gear. (10m climb)
Now from just under halfway to the topout- the climbing is such that, you just duck your head down and keep climbing out of the hard stuff, no rests and one thin thread strenuous to fix which you/or i would climb past with easy ground just a metre or two higher. Whats the beta would you say?

In reply to zimpara:

Probably not a good first HVS if the lack of gear is a worry. On short routes, potential groundfall is common at most grades and its down to the climber to judge how they would deal with it, Personally I wouldn't find a top rope inspection particularly valuable in predicting how I would fair on the lead. That normally comes from practice and experience

In reply to zimpara:

Agree with Graham - generally, for grade breakthroughs, you want a route with bomber grear so, if things don't go to plan, the only thing hurt is your ego.

The best way to get a HVS head is probably to do lots and lots and lots of VSs, on different rock types, in different environments. When you're going well, deliberately pick a few that are right bastards at the grade. If you've got them safely under your belt, pick a few well protected HVSs and give them a go.

Be safe. Good luck.

Mick

In reply to zimpara: Apart from the grade you have the beta in your o.p.

What's it like from half height? Vertical? Jug hauling?4c, 5a? Then easy ground for the last 3, 4 metres.

You would really benefit from doing a whole load of climbing.

In reply to zimpara:

Short routes often are not a good way to break into a new grade I've found, unless you're strong at bouldering. The crux is inevitably close to the ground, which makes gear more critical as ground fall comes into play.

In reply to Mr. Lee:


Totally agree. ;_;

In reply to zimpara:

Have a look at Central Buttress. Will sort you out a HVS head

In reply to zimpara:
I agree with Mick, just climb more VS climbs and not just the easy looking ones. By the time you've done that HVS's that suit your style more WILL be easier than the tricky VS climbs. There's several peak HVS climbs I've done that I just don't understand why they aren't VS, then again some of the supposedly soft HVS's I've found hard. Its all so subjective.