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I was thinking about this recently and can recall that perhaps 40+years back that Cenotaph Corner was certainly the most famous well known rock climb in the whole of the country. We are not talking here about Joe Public, but the climbing fraternity. It was not on everyone's hit-list as Extreme was a very respectable grade back then. Is this still the case, and it's certainly achievable by a lot more climbers today. But is it still the most well known climb, or is another route now deemed the greatest!
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
Three Pebble Slab is now considered to be the best example of E1, and therefore probably qualifies as the most famous climb in Britain.
Three Pebble Slab is now considered to be the best example of E1, and therefore probably qualifies as the most famous climb in Britain.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
I must admit I don't pay too much attention to the general press, but King Kong and Coronation Street seem to be quite famous around here.
I must admit I don't pay too much attention to the general press, but King Kong and Coronation Street seem to be quite famous around here.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
I suspect all the routes around Cenotaph Corner (particularly Left Wall, Resurrection, Cenotaph, Right Wall and Cemetery Gates) remain among the most coveted south of the Scottish border. CB (Central Buttress) on Scafell for a long time had almost as high a status until the tragic demise of the famous chockstone, and I'm not at all sure it's regained that status. In Scotland, perhaps Centurion?? But beyond that, I suspect The Old Man of Hoy (ordinary route) is near the top of the list.
I suspect all the routes around Cenotaph Corner (particularly Left Wall, Resurrection, Cenotaph, Right Wall and Cemetery Gates) remain among the most coveted south of the Scottish border. CB (Central Buttress) on Scafell for a long time had almost as high a status until the tragic demise of the famous chockstone, and I'm not at all sure it's regained that status. In Scotland, perhaps Centurion?? But beyond that, I suspect The Old Man of Hoy (ordinary route) is near the top of the list.
Post edited at 22:50
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In reply to Andy Clarke1965:
Depends on who you ask but for many it is the Old Man of Hoy.
Sadly many will answer "Mount Snowdown"!
Depends on who you ask but for many it is the Old Man of Hoy.
Sadly many will answer "Mount Snowdown"!
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In reply to treforsouthwell:
I can think of a number of people I have climbed with who almost certainly will not have heard of Cenotaph Corner, Three Pebble Slab or Coronation Street. As for King Kong, well I had to look-up that one myself...
The answer is, of course, the Old Man of Hoy.
I can think of a number of people I have climbed with who almost certainly will not have heard of Cenotaph Corner, Three Pebble Slab or Coronation Street. As for King Kong, well I had to look-up that one myself...
The answer is, of course, the Old Man of Hoy.
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In reply to Sean kelly:
As above,
Cuillin ridge, cenotaph corner or old man of hoy. Probably also the sloth? DOWH?
Its a tough question, if you lived in america and came over to do ONE ROUTE IN PARTICULAR. What would it be?
Gee thanks. Now i wont sleep all night!
Hmm, probably cuillin ridge to be fair.
As above,
Cuillin ridge, cenotaph corner or old man of hoy. Probably also the sloth? DOWH?
Its a tough question, if you lived in america and came over to do ONE ROUTE IN PARTICULAR. What would it be?
Gee thanks. Now i wont sleep all night!
Hmm, probably cuillin ridge to be fair.
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In reply to duchessofmalfi:
The general public and punters think The Old Man of Hoy is the Ultimate climb in the UK, this is of course rubbish, something like the ascent of The Indian face was not only iconic, it's hard to think of a modern climb that has really surpassed this in climbing folklore, a proper death route, ascended by a climbing genius.
The general public and punters think The Old Man of Hoy is the Ultimate climb in the UK, this is of course rubbish, something like the ascent of The Indian face was not only iconic, it's hard to think of a modern climb that has really surpassed this in climbing folklore, a proper death route, ascended by a climbing genius.
Post edited at 23:20
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In reply to zimpara:
Certainly felt like benchmark E1, to me, when I last toproped it with side runners.
> Thought it was HVS 5a on ukc?
Certainly felt like benchmark E1, to me, when I last toproped it with side runners.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
I can only speak from across the pond, but the most famous climbs in the UK, according to most of the climbers I know here, are either Gaia or Hubble. And I'd have to give the edge to Hubble.
No-one here, other than a few ex-pats or climbing nerds, know climbs like Violent New Breed, Revelations, Masters Edge, Three Pebble Slab, Dream of White Horses or the many other climbs I know get discussed here from time to time.
I can only speak from across the pond, but the most famous climbs in the UK, according to most of the climbers I know here, are either Gaia or Hubble. And I'd have to give the edge to Hubble.
No-one here, other than a few ex-pats or climbing nerds, know climbs like Violent New Breed, Revelations, Masters Edge, Three Pebble Slab, Dream of White Horses or the many other climbs I know get discussed here from time to time.
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In reply to shouldbebetter:
I'm sure both Gaia and Hubble are extremely intense experiences for those who climb them. But for those walking past without knowledge of their history, they look like small, grotty bits of rock. Which is kind of how so much of British climbing is, I guess...
> I can only speak from across the pond, but the most famous climbs in the UK, according to most of the climbers I know here, are either Gaia or Hubble. And I'd have to give the edge to Hubble.
I'm sure both Gaia and Hubble are extremely intense experiences for those who climb them. But for those walking past without knowledge of their history, they look like small, grotty bits of rock. Which is kind of how so much of British climbing is, I guess...
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
Hubble is pretty famous, now the world's first 9a.
Like Cenotaph Corner forty years ago Hubble is not on everyone's ticklist as 9a is still a very respectable grade today
Hubble is pretty famous, now the world's first 9a.
Like Cenotaph Corner forty years ago Hubble is not on everyone's ticklist as 9a is still a very respectable grade today
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In reply to stp:
From the big picture, world-wide point of view, it's certainly Hubble, which often proves too hard for a lot of the 9a and above community There are many overseas climbers also, who pass by the ClimbingWorks with Gaia and Careless Torque as the routes at the top of their tick lists.
Parochially, it's probably a Dawes route like The Quarryman as being most well known. Certainly it'll now be something off Hard Grit. There is an entire constituency growing up out there who've never heard of Joe Brown (except the shops), let alone heard of or aspire to Cenotaph Corner.
> Hubble is pretty famous, now the world's first 9a.
> Like Cenotaph Corner forty years ago Hubble is not on everyone's ticklist as 9a is still a very respectable grade today
From the big picture, world-wide point of view, it's certainly Hubble, which often proves too hard for a lot of the 9a and above community There are many overseas climbers also, who pass by the ClimbingWorks with Gaia and Careless Torque as the routes at the top of their tick lists.
Parochially, it's probably a Dawes route like The Quarryman as being most well known. Certainly it'll now be something off Hard Grit. There is an entire constituency growing up out there who've never heard of Joe Brown (except the shops), let alone heard of or aspire to Cenotaph Corner.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
I suppose for many the candidates would be found in Hard Rock or maybe Classic Rock.
The first ones that come to my mind (as good a test as any I suppose) would be:
Right Unconquerable - Peak
Kipling Groove - Lakes
Vector - N. Wales
Old Man of Hoy - Scotland
Demo Route - Demo Route
Pretty obviously these reflect what were regarded as must-do but achievable benchmark routes during my formative years. Also, I note that four out of five share the same first ascensionist, although they weren't chosen on that basis (although my reserve choice for the South-West would be Bow Wall, which would make it 5/5!) .
I suppose for many the candidates would be found in Hard Rock or maybe Classic Rock.
The first ones that come to my mind (as good a test as any I suppose) would be:
Right Unconquerable - Peak
Kipling Groove - Lakes
Vector - N. Wales
Old Man of Hoy - Scotland
Demo Route - Demo Route
Pretty obviously these reflect what were regarded as must-do but achievable benchmark routes during my formative years. Also, I note that four out of five share the same first ascensionist, although they weren't chosen on that basis (although my reserve choice for the South-West would be Bow Wall, which would make it 5/5!) .
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
How do you get to 4 out of 5? JB wasn't first on Old Man Of Hoy or Kipling or Demo so that means 2.
How do you get to 4 out of 5? JB wasn't first on Old Man Of Hoy or Kipling or Demo so that means 2.
In reply to Clauso:
TPS toproped with side runners, please explain I'm intrigued.
HVS is the correct grade.
> Certainly felt like benchmark E1, to me, when I last toproped it with side runners.
TPS toproped with side runners, please explain I'm intrigued.
HVS is the correct grade.
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
I'm pretty sure that the famously modest Mr Brown would want to point out that he can claim FAs for only two of your five - Right Unconquerable and Vector.
> four out of five share the same first ascensionist, although they weren't chosen on that basis (although my reserve choice for the South-West would be Bow Wall, which would make it 5/5!) .
I'm pretty sure that the famously modest Mr Brown would want to point out that he can claim FAs for only two of your five - Right Unconquerable and Vector.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
Blimey, you're right. I remember the TV footage of Joe Brown on the Old Man but of course he was doing the FA of South Face route (although I didn't specify which route!). As for Kipling Groove, again there's a misremembered association - there was that business about him doing the third ascent, thinking it was the second, and putting in the famous peg.
The routes were the first that came to mind, as were the associations with Brown - that'll teach me to stop and think but it's also, perhaps, a measure of Brown's influence that even when he didn't actually do the first ascent, he was there or thereabouts...
Anyway, I stand corrected.
> How do you get to 4 out of 5? JB wasn't first on Old Man Of Hoy or Kipling or Demo so that means 2.
Blimey, you're right. I remember the TV footage of Joe Brown on the Old Man but of course he was doing the FA of South Face route (although I didn't specify which route!). As for Kipling Groove, again there's a misremembered association - there was that business about him doing the third ascent, thinking it was the second, and putting in the famous peg.
The routes were the first that came to mind, as were the associations with Brown - that'll teach me to stop and think but it's also, perhaps, a measure of Brown's influence that even when he didn't actually do the first ascent, he was there or thereabouts...
Anyway, I stand corrected.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
Also referred to as a pseudopoint, whereby the aspirant leader first practices placing gear on toprope.
... Anyhow, like I said, it's solid E1 in my book. The potential for dropping gear on pseudopoint should not be underestimated.
> TPS toproped with side runners, please explain I'm intrigued.
> HVS is the correct grade.
Also referred to as a pseudopoint, whereby the aspirant leader first practices placing gear on toprope.
... Anyhow, like I said, it's solid E1 in my book. The potential for dropping gear on pseudopoint should not be underestimated.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
So am I!!
I don't know if the subject of the grade has ever been discussed, but I don't agree. I first led it 35 years ago, and I'd say it was a good E1 then.
Maybe it's got easier?
> TPS toproped with side runners, please explain I'm intrigued.
So am I!!
> HVS is the correct grade.
I don't know if the subject of the grade has ever been discussed, but I don't agree. I first led it 35 years ago, and I'd say it was a good E1 then.
Maybe it's got easier?
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In reply to Michael Hood:
There are no such things as correct grades, only conventional ones.
> HVS is the correct grade.
There are no such things as correct grades, only conventional ones.
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In reply to Trangia:
Brilliant! Done with such a straight face.
> So am I!!
> I don't know if the subject of the grade has ever been discussed,
Brilliant! Done with such a straight face.
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In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Now now Simon, that is the one you think should be the most famous
> this ^^^^^
> or possibly The Night Watch (VS 4b)
Now now Simon, that is the one you think should be the most famous
In reply to Dave Garnett:
While you're at it, could I point out that the European Patent Organisation isn't an EU initiative - indeed, Switzerland and Turkey are members.
While you're at it, could I point out that the European Patent Organisation isn't an EU initiative - indeed, Switzerland and Turkey are members.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Hey Dave, don't worry, memory's like eyesight... in the end, things start to get a bit blurry!
I think this is a much more important point. For several climbing generations, Brown's influence was massive. I guess, these days, if some haven't heard of Jerry, they won't have heard of him (not that he'd give a hoot). But, for so many of us, he will always remain the most famous and well respected British climber.
Mick
> Anyway, I stand corrected.
Hey Dave, don't worry, memory's like eyesight... in the end, things start to get a bit blurry!
> ...it's also, perhaps, a measure of Brown's influence that even when he didn't actually do the first ascent, he was there or thereabouts...
I think this is a much more important point. For several climbing generations, Brown's influence was massive. I guess, these days, if some haven't heard of Jerry, they won't have heard of him (not that he'd give a hoot). But, for so many of us, he will always remain the most famous and well respected British climber.
Mick
In reply to Trangia: I was thinking - E1? maybe it's got harder
I suspect the HVS/E1 depends on exactly which line/holds you take on the top bit of unprotected slab.
The gear in the pocket is good - wire + cam (this maybe out of date now as it might have worn more in the last few years) as long as you don't dislodge it with your foot when moving past it.
And the ledge after the crux move before the top slab, you could stand there for hours if necessary and be rescued by your belayer setting up a top rope.
I suspect the HVS/E1 depends on exactly which line/holds you take on the top bit of unprotected slab.
The gear in the pocket is good - wire + cam (this maybe out of date now as it might have worn more in the last few years) as long as you don't dislodge it with your foot when moving past it.
And the ledge after the crux move before the top slab, you could stand there for hours if necessary and be rescued by your belayer setting up a top rope.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
famous
adjective
1. known about by many people.
"a famous star"
synonyms: well known, celebrated, prominent, famed, popular, having made a name for oneself
---------------------------------------------------------------------
After the BBC's groundbreaking three night outside broadcast "The Great Climb" in 1967 which was watched by 15million viewers, the most famous climb in Britain has to be the Old Man of Hoy. Ask any non-climber and they will likely know about the Old Man of Hoy.
famous
adjective
1. known about by many people.
"a famous star"
synonyms: well known, celebrated, prominent, famed, popular, having made a name for oneself
---------------------------------------------------------------------
After the BBC's groundbreaking three night outside broadcast "The Great Climb" in 1967 which was watched by 15million viewers, the most famous climb in Britain has to be the Old Man of Hoy. Ask any non-climber and they will likely know about the Old Man of Hoy.
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In reply to Clauso: So top rope plus lead rope placing runners - then when happy, lead again without the top rope - makes sense and is fine in my book - similar to headpointing.
But side runners? - where on TPS can you get side runners in? The only ones I can think of is to move left before the bulge and place a couple of wires in Endless Triangle (or whatever it's called) but they're not 100% and wouldn't really help.
But side runners? - where on TPS can you get side runners in? The only ones I can think of is to move left before the bulge and place a couple of wires in Endless Triangle (or whatever it's called) but they're not 100% and wouldn't really help.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
There are some great side runners to be had in Heather Wall.
... I'm not being entirely serious about any of this.
> But side runners? - where on TPS can you get side runners in?
There are some great side runners to be had in Heather Wall.
... I'm not being entirely serious about any of this.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
As an attempt to answer this question I have posed it to non-climbers in the Hilltalk forum.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=641326
As an attempt to answer this question I have posed it to non-climbers in the Hilltalk forum.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=641326
Post edited at 10:44
In reply to Jack Frost:
Only among those who were alive in 1967...
> After the BBC's groundbreaking three night outside broadcast "The Great Climb" in 1967 which was watched by 15million viewers, the most famous climb in Britain has to be the Old Man of Hoy
Only among those who were alive in 1967...
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In reply to Clauso: Careful, before you know it you'll be telling us that you enjoyed yourself and then all of a sudden claiming that you are the best climber in the world because you were having the most fun
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In reply to Simon Caldwell:
The BBC schedules survive on repeats.
As soon as it entered the public conciousness after the airing of the orig programme, then its been there ever since. Passed down through generations.
The BBC schedules survive on repeats.
As soon as it entered the public conciousness after the airing of the orig programme, then its been there ever since. Passed down through generations.
In reply to John2:
Not sure I ever said it was did I? I hope not. Certainly not on this thread!
The EPO has far grander ambitions than merely the EU, it's a supranational, supraregional organisation whose offices are extraterritorial. A bit like Torchwood.
Happy to discuss this elsewhere.
> While you're at it, could I point out that the European Patent Organisation isn't an EU initiative - indeed, Switzerland and Turkey are members.
Not sure I ever said it was did I? I hope not. Certainly not on this thread!
The EPO has far grander ambitions than merely the EU, it's a supranational, supraregional organisation whose offices are extraterritorial. A bit like Torchwood.
Happy to discuss this elsewhere.
In reply to Michael Hood:
It really just depends on whether you've climbed a proper E1 (then you know TPS is HVS) or not (then you probably think it's E1).
I miss this UKC classic debate, hasn't appeared in ages.
I think we can all agree it's textbook E0 *gets coat*
As for the most famous climb - got to be the Old Man of Hoy, Cenotaph Corner or Dream... I'm obviuously a climber and have had to look up all the Lakes routes suggested except Napes Needle.
> I was thinking - E1? maybe it's got harder
> I suspect the HVS/E1 depends on exactly which line/holds you take on the top bit of unprotected slab.
It really just depends on whether you've climbed a proper E1 (then you know TPS is HVS) or not (then you probably think it's E1).
I miss this UKC classic debate, hasn't appeared in ages.
I think we can all agree it's textbook E0 *gets coat*
As for the most famous climb - got to be the Old Man of Hoy, Cenotaph Corner or Dream... I'm obviuously a climber and have had to look up all the Lakes routes suggested except Napes Needle.
Post edited at 11:00
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
Most people(i.e. not climbers) when asked what the most famous climb is will probably say Ben Nevis, or Snowdon. Old Man of Hoy was made very famous back in the sixties. I can't think of another named climb that has had anywhere like the same level of publicity since.
Most people(i.e. not climbers) when asked what the most famous climb is will probably say Ben Nevis, or Snowdon. Old Man of Hoy was made very famous back in the sixties. I can't think of another named climb that has had anywhere like the same level of publicity since.
In reply to Pete Pozman:
Coronation Street also got a lot of coverage but clearly isn't as iconic as the OMOH
Coronation Street also got a lot of coverage but clearly isn't as iconic as the OMOH
In reply to Jack Frost:
Which is why my original post specifically referred to climbing opinion and not 'Joe Public'!
Indian Face is a good suggestion but hardly attainable by many climbers even if standards have rocketed in the last 40 years.
Dream of White Horses is obviously a 'must do' route on many climbers' itinerary.
As others have noted Scafell Flake has lost it's chock-stone so the climbing is very different to the original ascent. But Kipling is a possible.
As for north of the border, the Cuillin Ridge is certainly a famous mountaineering route, but not really a climb as such, that is aside from one pitch up the Inn Pin. The 'Old Man' is certainly very well known by public and climbers alike. Unfortunately being quite hard of access/remoteness and weather dependent, is off the list of most southern based climbers. For me Scottish pride suggests it would have to be some classic by Robin Smith as Centurion was climbed by a Sassenach
Just to finish on a more humorous note, i was climbing with a youngster of 21 who was attaining 8a indoors. As we roped up at the foot of Central Groove (Dewerstone) I remarked that he should be getting to grips with those classics on the Cenotaph Walls. The blank look said it all. He hadn't even heard of Cenotaph Corner!
But I feel much as Gordon above and any if not all the routes on these walls are top classics if some are only do-able by the very talented/strong.
> famous
> adjective
> 1. known about by many people.
> "a famous star"
> synonyms: well known, celebrated, prominent, famed, popular, having made a name for oneself
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> After the BBC's groundbreaking three night outside broadcast "The Great Climb" in 1967 which was watched by 15million viewers, the most famous climb in Britain has to be the Old Man of Hoy. Ask any non-climber and they will likely know about the Old Man of Hoy.
Which is why my original post specifically referred to climbing opinion and not 'Joe Public'!
Indian Face is a good suggestion but hardly attainable by many climbers even if standards have rocketed in the last 40 years.
Dream of White Horses is obviously a 'must do' route on many climbers' itinerary.
As others have noted Scafell Flake has lost it's chock-stone so the climbing is very different to the original ascent. But Kipling is a possible.
As for north of the border, the Cuillin Ridge is certainly a famous mountaineering route, but not really a climb as such, that is aside from one pitch up the Inn Pin. The 'Old Man' is certainly very well known by public and climbers alike. Unfortunately being quite hard of access/remoteness and weather dependent, is off the list of most southern based climbers. For me Scottish pride suggests it would have to be some classic by Robin Smith as Centurion was climbed by a Sassenach
Just to finish on a more humorous note, i was climbing with a youngster of 21 who was attaining 8a indoors. As we roped up at the foot of Central Groove (Dewerstone) I remarked that he should be getting to grips with those classics on the Cenotaph Walls. The blank look said it all. He hadn't even heard of Cenotaph Corner!
But I feel much as Gordon above and any if not all the routes on these walls are top classics if some are only do-able by the very talented/strong.
Post edited at 14:31
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Overheard in The Depot (Leeds branch).
'Do you ever go climbing outdoors?'
'Yeah. I'm going to Font next month.'
'Where's that?'
'Errrr. Its somewhere in France. I think.'
> Just to finish on a more humorous note, i was climbing with a youngster of 21 who was attaining 8a indoors. As we roped up at the foot of Central Groove (Dewerstone) I remarked that he should be getting to grips with those classics on the Cenotaph Walls. The blank look said it all. He hadn't even heard of Cenotaph Corner!
Overheard in The Depot (Leeds branch).
'Do you ever go climbing outdoors?'
'Yeah. I'm going to Font next month.'
'Where's that?'
'Errrr. Its somewhere in France. I think.'
In reply to Andy Say:
I've just started again after a gap of over 28 years, and started using my local wall in Kent a couple of times a week. Out if the many people I've chatted with there over the last few weeks, the only place any if them have heard of, is Font.
> Overheard in The Depot (Leeds branch).
> 'Do you ever go climbing outdoors?'
> 'Yeah. I'm going to Font next month.'
> 'Where's that?'
> 'Errrr. Its somewhere in France. I think.'
I've just started again after a gap of over 28 years, and started using my local wall in Kent a couple of times a week. Out if the many people I've chatted with there over the last few weeks, the only place any if them have heard of, is Font.
Post edited at 16:19
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
Three Pebble Slab is now considered to be the best example of HVS, and therefore probably qualifies as the most famous climb in Britain.
Three Pebble Slab is now considered to be the best example of HVS, and therefore probably qualifies as the most famous climb in Britain.
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In reply to Sean Kelly
I'd say, as someone who lives abroad...
Hubble
Gaia
Careless torque
Old man Hoy
cenotaph Corner
A lot of. The other stuff, forget it. Noone has heard of DOWH, kipling groove et al. I was talking to some people a few weeks ago and they hadnt even heard of Pembroke, nor the Lake District
Post edited at 16:56
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In reply to Trangia:
35 years ago there were no runners on it. Over the years, due to repeated efforts to place cams, a good cam and wire slot now exist. In 1974 my friend bought a clog hexagon brass 00 (a tiny very stiff-wired hexagon) because he'd heard it went in. It lasted a few seconds before it fell out with the movement of the rope.
35 years ago there were no runners on it. Over the years, due to repeated efforts to place cams, a good cam and wire slot now exist. In 1974 my friend bought a clog hexagon brass 00 (a tiny very stiff-wired hexagon) because he'd heard it went in. It lasted a few seconds before it fell out with the movement of the rope.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
There is no such thing as the most famous route for climbers because it depends who you ask - British climbers, overseas climbers, trad climbers, sport climbers, boulderers, climbers who've been at it for decades, climbers who have only just started out - they will probably give you very different answers (and that's ignoring winter climbers!).
Also, famous in what way? Personally, I'd say Indian Face for the history and the aura which it retains to this day. However it would have to be Hoy for the visual impact.
There is no such thing as the most famous route for climbers because it depends who you ask - British climbers, overseas climbers, trad climbers, sport climbers, boulderers, climbers who've been at it for decades, climbers who have only just started out - they will probably give you very different answers (and that's ignoring winter climbers!).
Also, famous in what way? Personally, I'd say Indian Face for the history and the aura which it retains to this day. However it would have to be Hoy for the visual impact.
In reply to Sean Kelly:
If you said the Cenotaph Walls to me, I wouldn't be sure whether you meant the Cromlech or somewhere in the US perhaps!
If you said the Cenotaph Walls to me, I wouldn't be sure whether you meant the Cromlech or somewhere in the US perhaps!
In reply to Sean Kelly:
As others have said, it depends on one's age, ability, preferred kind of climbing. As a trad has-been/never-was in his seventies, I vote for Cenotaph Corner, partly for the perfect line and the aura which it once enjoyed but also because it is so visible from a main road. Does any climber ever drive or walk down the Pass without looking to see if there is some one on it?
As others have said, it depends on one's age, ability, preferred kind of climbing. As a trad has-been/never-was in his seventies, I vote for Cenotaph Corner, partly for the perfect line and the aura which it once enjoyed but also because it is so visible from a main road. Does any climber ever drive or walk down the Pass without looking to see if there is some one on it?
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
Point 5 Gully must satisfy the greatest number of interest groups, international, national, local, amateur, pro, old lag and new pin.
Point 5 Gully must satisfy the greatest number of interest groups, international, national, local, amateur, pro, old lag and new pin.
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In reply to Graham Hoey:
35 years ago is 1981 - there was gear on it then. Maybe you mean 45 years ago - we're all obviously older than we think
35 years ago is 1981 - there was gear on it then. Maybe you mean 45 years ago - we're all obviously older than we think
In reply to Michael Hood:
Most of the suggestions really only apply to fame amongst climbers and the wider public outnumber us massively. It's got to be something that hit prime time TV so The Old Man of Hoy with Storr a runmer up. In recent times The Great Climb. Good try on the other thread btw but expecting a sensible response from UKH was possibly ambitious... all these funny people need to laugh at their own jokes.
3PS is a climb famous for being famous.. a 'big brother celeb' climb. The definitive Froggatt guide is clear its lowish E1 in modern terms as an onsight by the eliminate pure padding finish (staying rightish above that half rest 'rescue ledge') or HVS by following the easiest climbing moving back left instead. I've been with plenty of competant climbers experiencing the neatness of the technical crux and frisson of that bold padding for the first time. I know a solid extreme leader who fell off the padding solo. Grade votes suffered a bit from old grumblies 'web pointing' it (bold routes will seem easy for their adjectival grade once you know how) but are indicating E1 even with confirmation bias for the new Rockfax grade. Its sad Rockfax allowed Chris to ignore all the mass voting and rewrite the grade without being especially clear on the niceties of the line (the topo line shows the E1 finish .... falsely described as 'mild'). However it is a bit like the famous for being famous person making headlines again after leaving their cat due to irreconcilable differences. It's also ironic if a climb 'became protectable' through attempts to protect it (is that really true sometime in the late 70s?) and sowed the seeds of its fame as a result.
Most of the suggestions really only apply to fame amongst climbers and the wider public outnumber us massively. It's got to be something that hit prime time TV so The Old Man of Hoy with Storr a runmer up. In recent times The Great Climb. Good try on the other thread btw but expecting a sensible response from UKH was possibly ambitious... all these funny people need to laugh at their own jokes.
3PS is a climb famous for being famous.. a 'big brother celeb' climb. The definitive Froggatt guide is clear its lowish E1 in modern terms as an onsight by the eliminate pure padding finish (staying rightish above that half rest 'rescue ledge') or HVS by following the easiest climbing moving back left instead. I've been with plenty of competant climbers experiencing the neatness of the technical crux and frisson of that bold padding for the first time. I know a solid extreme leader who fell off the padding solo. Grade votes suffered a bit from old grumblies 'web pointing' it (bold routes will seem easy for their adjectival grade once you know how) but are indicating E1 even with confirmation bias for the new Rockfax grade. Its sad Rockfax allowed Chris to ignore all the mass voting and rewrite the grade without being especially clear on the niceties of the line (the topo line shows the E1 finish .... falsely described as 'mild'). However it is a bit like the famous for being famous person making headlines again after leaving their cat due to irreconcilable differences. It's also ironic if a climb 'became protectable' through attempts to protect it (is that really true sometime in the late 70s?) and sowed the seeds of its fame as a result.
In reply to wbo:
This is it!
Do people on here really think the frenchies, yanks etc know about right unconquerable or cenotaph anymore??? Gaia and hubble are the only two i really hear about
> In reply to Sean Kelly
> I'd say, as someone who lives abroad...
> Hubble
> Gaia
> Careless torque
> Old man Hoy
This is it!
Do people on here really think the frenchies, yanks etc know about right unconquerable or cenotaph anymore??? Gaia and hubble are the only two i really hear about
1
In reply to Michael Hood:
Quite possibly - I'm always shocked when I look at my diary to find that a climb I did 'a few years ago' was in fact done ten or more years ago. "So many classics such little time".
Quite possibly - I'm always shocked when I look at my diary to find that a climb I did 'a few years ago' was in fact done ten or more years ago. "So many classics such little time".
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