UKC

Somebody had to do it

Following on from "The Most Famous Climb in Britain" , what's the most infamous

I suspect TPS could make both lists

Or something from "The McCallum Affair"

In reply to Hat Dude:

The Chasm maybe?

In reply to Hat Dude:

Munich Climb had an infamous reputation for years as a result of fatalities.

Made me want to climb it as the history is really appealing in a strange way (and of course modern gear removes the sting)

In reply to Hat Dude:
The Russian (HVS 5a)


*Finally I have climbed the infamous Russian.Quite strenuous and sustained with a fair bit of polish. Fell off the crux and rested on the rope but got back on and managed to finish unaided. Very satisfying but wouldn't feel confident leading here at the moment especially remembering that someone has died on this route.Someone's nut was firmly wedged in the crack. Looks like they took a solid fall on it.*
Just one quote.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Frankie Goes to Hollywood should be a contender

In reply to john arran:

Artificial Route at Widdop.

You should feel dirty climbing it but it's in a great position..

In reply to Hat Dude:

Violent New Breed

In reply to john arran:


....and, for vaguely related reasons, Clarion Call.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Broad Stand barely qualifies as a climb, but even so........

In reply to Hat Dude:

I think Goliath [Burbage], and Ramshaw Crack, are up there.

Preposterous Tales?

In reply to Hat Dude:
Flake Crack at Helsby has a bit of a grim reputation

In reply to Babika:


It's a great climb though. IIRC the old guide book contained a sobering warning about good rope work and too many fatalities. It was one of my first VS leads and I found the warning very sobering. I led it again a few years later using the new guide book which doesn't contain the warning, but memories of it still rang in my head.

It think it was leaders falling off the exposed left traverse before Teufal's Crack and dragging their seconds off so that both were killed. I believe this happened on two separate occasions? Without modern gear it would have been very difficult for the second to set up a bomb proof belay, and the traverse itself would have been difficult to protect.

As you say modern gear removes the sting.

I think that Central Buttress on Scafell had a similar reputation as a "death route" in the inter-war period.

Broad Stand on Scafell Pike has a very bad accident reputation these days, because too many inexperienced underestimate it.

In reply to zimpara:

Agree with you about the Russian. I cried on the crux, had a word with myself and got up it!

In reply to Hat Dude:

Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs after that fella got himself benighted on it..

In reply to jezb1:


Wasn't that for 2 nights?

In reply to mark hounslea:

I'd like to know the story behind that Mark, could you expand?

In reply to Hat Dude:

What's that climb on portland with the climbing wall holds bolted to it? That feels like a contender.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Pinnacle Flake had a bit of a reputation, with a precarious 5b mantle above poor gear and a poor belay - Terry Taylor fell from it and dragged his mate off the belay, who then died - though incredibly, Taylor survived.

When I did it someone coming up after me recounted the tale with relish and in a loud voice while I was on the crux. Thankfully I did it OK but when he came to lead it he was a gibbering wreck, I'm pleased to say. (Though I would have offered him a top rope - if he'd begged pathetically enough.)

In reply to Adam W.:

I believe that Marshall who put up the excellent Marshall's climb was killed in front of an audience attempting the first ascent and that it has had a number of other fatalities. Incidentally Menlove Edwards who made the first ascent built a special wooden training device in the gym of the Adelphi hotel in Liverpool in order to improve his layback strength. The first of the 'wide boys' training on his own woody?

In reply to Hat Dude:



Unbelievably yes, I think so!

In reply to Hat Dude:

The Wrinkled Retainer (E5 6c) caused a lot of fuss at the time

Indian Face - for its painting and reputation?

In reply to Hat Dude: In terms of climbing history I think it would be fairly hard to beat Suicide Wall Route 1 (E2 5c).

A route so dangerous and committing that the FAist was requested not to even attempt it until after victory in WWII was achieved and he had done his duty to King and Country.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Anyone mentioned Breakaway yet ? usually comes up in lists of memorable guidebook descriptions.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Man Trap - Mousetrap Zawn (Don't ask !!!)

In reply to Hat Dude:


THE INDIAN FACE

without a doubt!

In reply to mark hounslea:

Thanks for that Mark. Never knew the history behind the route despite spending a lot of time there when I started out.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Statement of Youth?

Caused a bit of fuss at the time.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Monolith Crack (HS)

a friend of mine applied for a job in the outdoors and the application form asked "whats the hardest route you have led", alongside some of the south stack horrors at Gogarth was this - top of the list!

In reply to Babika:

Yes I well remember climbing Munich many years ago, terrifying.

In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Also probably a contender for the highest dogged/dnf route thread?

In reply to zimpara:

Another vote for The Russian. Very scary, and a gruesome reputation.

In reply to zimpara:


Many of the dnfs are probably still inside it!