UKC

Me and my partner are hoping to go to Morocco later on this year, and most of the time I lead the routes when were outdoors and I almost always have my friends belay me. the thing is there's about 20kg weight difference between us and so when I fall she gets pulled up to the first bolt. Is there anything we can do to reduce this risk?

When were climbing indoors she always uses a weight bag or ground anchor so it pretty much eliminates this problem.

In reply to evansliam:

http://tinyurl.com/gu2lzrh

In reply to evansliam:

first thing is belaying from close to the base of the route rather than stood back due to the force involved, which I expect you know.

You can often get some gear in on the ground or near the ground in a way that acts like a belay on multi pitch, so essentially tie the belayer down and stop them flying up.

In reply to evansliam:
Would one of these help? http://www.edelrid.de/en/edelrid-ohm/

Edit: But it doesn't seem to be available yet.

In reply to evansliam:

Assuming an upward pulling ground anchor isn't feasible, a full rucksack or two clipped to her belay loop would help (although limit her ability to move out the way if you drop something!).

In reply to evansliam:

What about the elderid thing that you put on the first bolt?

In reply to Scarab9:

Awesome thanks for the tip! And if there isn't anywhere to place gear under the bolt? Or we've only taken sport gear with us? What then?

In reply to evansliam:

Take some trad gear?

In reply to robhorton:

Yeah makes sense I suppose do the same job as a weight bag then!

In reply to evansliam:

I was working a route with a 20kg lighter belayer at the weekend. I didn't notice any particular problem, and he didn't complain. Admittedly these were short sport falls, at most with the bolt at my feet.

In reply to evansliam:

Is this an actual problem you commonly experience outdoors or one you're concerned you might experience?

20kg difference isn't huge (assuming you're not both really light). With high first bolts (clipstick the 2nd) and careful belayer positioning close in to the wall a bit of a launch isn't something to worry too much about, slamming into the bolt is. An assisted belay device, shoes on and a helmet for the belayer are a good idea if big launches are expected, it's much easier to keep control of the rope while fending off the wall if the belay device is locked and you are ready for it, wearing appropriate protection.

Adding a bit of weight in the form of spare rope, shoes, water bottles etc into a rucksack used as a 'sandbag' (not worn) may provide the reassurance you're after. there's often a lot of deadweight packed into roadside crags.

jk

In reply to Babika:

Surely half a rack would add quitea bit of weight just for building a ground anchor? And then to carry it up the rest of the climb if it was a multi pitch say... Seems a bit pointless.

In reply to jkarran:

One that were concerned might happen as its happened in the past, so when we go out now I just have my friends belay me instead, and indoors we just use weight bags and not had it happen. Is it worth while investing in a gri gri as well or not?

In reply to evansliam:


<disclaimer> I've never done this </disclaimer>.

but:

If you stop thinking of this as a ground anchor and more as a slack upwards piece to minimise her flight time, it doesn't need to be a perfect anchor. One nut would do it. And even if it blows that also doesn't matter if it's done its job of slowing her down. So maybe just take half a set of nuts, a couple of hexes and a sling? Not too heavy.

In reply to evansliam:

Assuming you have gone climbing with a rucksack, pick up some rocks from the ground, put them in a rucksack and clip the belayer to it so it works like an indoors sandbag. Remember to take the rocks out if you are climbing up with the rucksack afterwards.

In reply to evansliam:

Get your partner to eat lots of pies and drink loads of Guiness before the trip, problem solved

In reply to evansliam:

One of my regular partners is not far from 20kg lighter than me and it means I enjoy nice dynamic catches.

The only time the weight difference is anything resembling an issue is if I'm dogging the route a lot - a heavier partner can help there when you're hauling up ropes and trying to hang static in front of exactly the right holds. Even that isn't really a big deal.

In reply to evansliam:


I would. It's not essential obviously but if your face is about to smash into a rockface the instinct to shield it is pretty strong.

Get some practice indoors or locally before you go, it'll do you both good to build a bit of confidence. We often skip (with a stick usually) the first clip when sport climbing, it gives the belayer a little more freedom to move without big horizontal forces being applied in a fall. You still sometimes get launched but it's upward from a standing position which helps!
jk

In reply to evansliam:

It shouldnt be an issue really, some of my belayers are 30kg lighter than me and catch me just fine. I wouldn't have them belay me when ground fall is an issue though, full stop!

In reply to evansliam:

Any recommendations for the best belay device when there is a significant weight differential?

In reply to evansliam:

One thing to be careful of with a gri-gri in this situation is if the climber falls and the belayer is wedged against the first bolt, the belayer may not be able to release the gri-gri handle. Fine if the climber can climb/pull on the rope to lower the belayer, but not so good on an overhanging route were the climber is left dangling in space.

Heard it happened to a couple of guys on holiday - luckily it was a busy crag and others helped pull the belayer back towards ground.

In reply to turtlespit:

Even if you can't reach the other strand or the rock, you can just bounce on your strand and your belayer will go down. A couple of bounces and they'll be clear of the bolt.

Having your belayer hanging in the air is a distinct advantage if you've just fallen off a roof into free space and are faced with the glorious prospect of bouncing (doing pullups repeatedly on your strand of rope, for clarity, so that as you let go your belayer is for a split second hanging on an unweighted rope) your way back into contact with the rock.