UKC

Im fashioning a 35£ hold for my wall, wooden. For the math gurus, if i have a block which on the tall backside is 8cms,how many centimetres would the termination (lower front end) be after the taper? Cheers

Ie, cut 8cm block flat, angle a cut from top of 8cm end lowering to 6cm

In reply to zimpara:

Depends on how thick the block is.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Fair point Greasy. Whats the ratio taking thickness into account?

In reply to zimpara:

A 35-90-55 deg triangle has sides in the ratio 10 : 6.5 : 11.9

11.9 being the hypotenuse /diagonal

In reply to zimpara:

It's probably easier to make a 70° one and cut it in half.

In reply to zimpara:

Easy, make a 55 degree hold, throw it away and keep the waste.

In reply to zimpara:

However thick/deep the hold is you need to cut a wedge, 0.7x that thickness off the top.

Eg: your wooden block is 5cm thick, you mark a line across 5x0.7=3.5 cm down from the flat top then cut/plane to it to get a 35deg sloper. The 8cm you mention is irrelevant.

Personally I'd just do it by trial and error, see what feels right then make some similar variations. Unless your wall is plumb or near to it that's a very slopey hold without any additional texture added onto or worked into the friction surface. Slope the top and bottom edges otherwise you end up pinching everything which isn't like the real world.
jk

In reply to jkarran:

Really useful, thanks jk.
Ps some of the responses had me in stitches, particularly (make a 55 degree hold, throw it away and use leftover.)

http://postimg.org/image/wsx70dv0h/

In reply to jkarran:

In reply to jkarran:

Doesn't that only apply if your block is square in section?

In reply to Fraser:

Wouldn't have thought so, 0.7 x anything = 35degrees surely? Or am i slowish?

In reply to zimpara:

http://postimg.org/image/qmfax74ch/

Print this at 1:1 scale should be able to use as a template as an elevation?

hope that helps

In reply to nathanhesslewood:

Mega! Thanks

Anyone know the best depth to have the slopers? Looks to me like ive made 18mm 35degree crimps. Any good? 7sec max hang and I'm off. Less if i have any motion/swing.

In reply to zimpara:
I'm maybe misunderstanding what has been suggested, but if you have a 100x100mm block and cut from the top edge on one side to 70mm down from the top edge on the opposite side, you do indeed get a 35£ sloper.

But if you have a block the same 100mm heigh t but twice the width at 200mm (so it's in "landscape" format when viewed in section) and cut 70mm down from the top edge, you only have a 19£-ish sloper.

Edit: for that example template linked to above, the base dimension has to be 114mm for it to be 35°. Any other base length and the slope is not 35°.

Or am I missing something?

In reply to zimpara:

How long is a piece of string? It really depends what you want them for!

If they're going on a wall make a handful in different sizes with different slopes, see which you like then make more.
jk

In reply to zimpara:

I'd just set my mitre saw blade @ 35!

In reply to Fraser:
Good point. I'm confused.

So we're looking for a formula similar to

(Height x 0.7 x (0.3 of the depth relative to height squared) or something to that effect. No idea how to arrange that

In reply to jkarran:

Or is the value from seeing which ones you dont like and train on them?

Or is life too short to climb on crap holds? Lol

In reply to zimpara:

More to do with the angle of your wall, your goals and where you're at ability-wise. The holds you're cutting would, for someone of my ability make a pretty tough problem on a 10 degree wall, a path on on vertical board and a waste of my time on a 40deg board. You can always trim them to a new angle if you don't like what you make.

If you're making a set then chamfer all the faces, not just the one you plan to pull on and round over all the edges. If you cut a different chamfer on each edge you get 4 or more holds in one. If you leave square edges you get really strong thumbs... and burned off at the crag. You can no doubt guess at how I know this
jk

In reply to jkarran:

Hmm, I like the chamfer idea, going to do that now. Because i cheat like hell and get strong thumbs too.

In reply to nathanhesslewood:


What angle will it be if he prints it at 2:1?