UKC

Hi, can anyone suggest some good routes to hone my jamming skills on at the roaches please ? Thanks !

In reply to afshapes:

The Mincer. Then down climb it. You should be pretty good after that

If you want some serious crack training go round the corner to Ramshaw.
Amazing cracks from easy to very hard. Even some top quality bouldering cracks.
Enjoy

In reply to afshapes:

Just looked at your logbook and seen you climb up to E5. Ramshaw will definitely be more suited for you.

In reply to afshapes:

Matinee is a good stout test, especially done as a single pitch. The Swan has a good jamming section.
Also have a look at Comedian/Corinthian and central route up at Hen Cloud as well as the ramshaw recommendations.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Ha ! Yeah that e5 is an anomaly! A project I'm working. My only experience of grit is on sighting chalkstorm and then getting spat off the valkarie! !!
Where I live it's limestone and sandstone so mainly edgy climbing. There is some jamming but it's rare so I'm looking for somewhere to build up my confidence so a good spread of grades would be nice. Thanks for the replies thus far !

In reply to afshapes:
millstone has some nice jamming routes especially good for finger jams, I know its not the roaches but still....

In reply to afshapes:

Ramshaw is great... you even get a 'crack school' list on p.200 of the newest Roaches guide. At Hen Cloud, Delstree and Left Eliminate are amazing and Bachelor's Climb is a good warm up. If you really want grit brutality try Central Crack Direct, Matinee, Mincer and Masochism.

In reply to Offwidth:
Unless changed recently large parts of the left hand of hen cloud has a nesting restriction (lots of bird watchers a few weekends ago) which would include delstree but still ok to climb on right if simular previous years.

Edit:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=129

In reply to afshapes:

This is what offwith was talking about

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=115

but plenty of others to go at that arn't on the list like The Press, Masochism, The Untouchable, Don's Crack

In reply to afshapes:

Well below what you seem to climb, but "Saul's Crack" is a good jamming test

"Bachelor's Left Hand", next door on Hen Cloud too.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:
Another list marred by the requirement of Rockfax grades on the logbooks. Definitive grades (where they differ) are: Phallic Crack HVD**, Great Scene Baby S 4b*, Tricouni Crack HS 4a*, The Crank VS 5a**, Green Crack HVS 5b*, Brown's Crack E1 5c**, Foord's Folly E2 6a***, Imposition E2 5c**, National Acrobat E6 6c***. I'm not saying Rockfax are wrong and the Definitive correct... just that if you are going to have a logbook grade it should be the best current view from the votes. If Rockfax didn't keep overriding the votes things would be fine.

On access everyone should check RAD before they go to climb and helpfully the info links to the UKC crag page.... my recommendations are just that... no guarentee they are available or in the best nick for a particular time.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Just remembered another newly listed gem:

Cioch Variations (E1 5c)

Very Curbar!

In reply to afshapes: at sub extreme Thrug in the Skyline area is a nice bit of jamming.

In reply to Offwidth:




Did that on Thursday, good if a little eliminate in places. Was this meant to be on the other thread?