In reply to Annoying Twit:
Everything I wrote there still stands. However, since then I actually met him!
Jean and I shared an author's book-signing table at the 2013 Piolet d'Or. His english is not great but we had a bit of a chat, partly via his wife, and he seemed more keen to talk about sailing and other non-Himalayan adventures. Lovely bloke.
If you use Facebook, you should be able to see a pic of him here:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151538633299901&set=t.564889900&t...
He's in the middle, with extreme ski legend Anselme Baud on the right of the pic.
Post edited at 00:29