UKC

The chain belay at the ledge at the start of Pocket Symphony, Deaf Dove etc. is cutting through the rock. Am I allowed to chop it and replace it with some fat, new static rope?

The belay consists of 2 threads one with an old bit of tape around it, the other has a rusty chain which loops around and roughly equalises with the threaded tape. People are using it as a hanging belay, weighting it as they move around on the ledge and it is slowly sawing away and turning the rock into dust. The thread with the chain has a similar diameter to a drinks can.

In reply to Chriswallis2:

Would it make more sense to protect the rock with something - say a tarp held in place with cable ties ? As a static rope will still wear the rock albeit more slowly.

You can do what you like. There are no rules.
Just make sure that its replacement is inconspicuous.
The National Trust won't take kindly to a massive bit of florescent tat.

In reply to Chriswallis2:
Suggest raising it with the bolt fund. They might provide a new chain in a plastic housing - that works well on trees for example.

In reply to Misha:

Which bolt fund would that be then?

In reply to Chriswallis2:

Why not strip the lot and let people put thier own slings there.

In reply to Chriswallis2: I would ask - why is there a chain there anyway? I don't remember there being one there many years ago. If the belay needs permanent gear (and I can't quite see why it does - see below), then why isn't the usual tat (rope or tape) adequate.

Does anyone need to ab off that ledge - if you've done PS or DD, etc. then there are chains in the gash to ab off, if you've failed above the ledge then go up Nocturne (VS 4c) to get to the gash etc. and retrieve gear during the ab. If you've failed but not left any gear in then go up Nocturne, etc.

In reply to kristian:

Bmc have provided stainless strops enclosed in a plastic sheath for some crags. Think these are made by Lyon and could work well.

James

In reply to james mann:

An expensive setup for for the BMC if it is not for access or conservation reasons.

In reply to kristian:
Fair point, BMC then. If they're feeling generous... Though sounds like some tat would do the job. I've replaced a few threads on Beeston, need to do a few more plus the old rope on the approach to the right hand sidebut don't get up there that often.

In reply to Chriswallis2:

Yeah, get rid.

I don't see why you need anything in place at the start, either nothing or static rope.

In reply to Chriswallis2:

I placed this chain years ago with Gary Cooper. I agree it's wearing the rock and essentially unnecessary. I'll cut it next time I'm there.

There's s new ab chain too, but the old one still remains, I'll clean this too.

Incidentally, I've been up 666 today. The bolts are rusty, can these be easily replaced? The hangers are in good condition. Also, does anyone know where the lower off is? I had to leave a krab on the last bolt.

Cheers.

In reply to kristian:

Hi!

I wondered if it was the nut and rusty bolt I could see! That needs sorting, there was no way I was gonna hang on that!

The ivy is in good condition, we've stripped some back, but it's not become the problem it was. All the routes are still very climbable.

The bolts on the other routes are lovely, shiney and good, but the 666 ones are rusty as hell. I've never done any bolting, so don't really know the score. But just wondered if they could simply be unscrewed and replaced? I presume the "collar" inside the rock doesn't suffer the same rusty fate as the bolt heads?

In reply to andi turner:

They would need replacing. Only the stainless hangers could be reused if they are the correct diameter.