UKC

Comici

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 ffati 16 May 2016
Finally going out to the Dolomites for the first time this summer,can't wait!

Top of the ever increasing tick list is the comici, what sort of rack should I take. Some people say a set of nuts and a few cams plus lots of qd's.

As I've never been before what should I wear only similar thing I've done is the Cassin on the Badille, on that trip I had light soft shell trousers,r1 top, shirt, wind proof, synthetic fillet, trainers and a pair of leather garden gloves sound ok?
 Aigen 16 May 2016
In reply to ffati:
rack wise =
4 x 60cm draws & 6 x normal lenght.
1 set of nuts 1 - 9.
Camelot's 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 1.
Slings 2 x 120 & 1x 240
Its riddled with fixed gear.
Clothes wise you need to see what the weather is like but same as the Cassin most likely. Take a small 10 litre pack between ye with water and some nibbles. also leader should strap a 0.5 litre bottle of water on the harness. Great route have a good time.
Post edited at 23:46
 Cellinski 17 May 2016
In reply to ffati:

The Cassin on Badile can be very sunny and warm. On an ideal day, midsummer with early start, we climbed the entire route in a T-shirt and were warm all the way. Does not mean that one hasn't to be prepared otherwise, though! The Comici, which is in a face that is a lot steeper and exposed plain N rather than NE receives only very little sun. Much colder temps even on an ideal day there.
 sollyf 05 Jun 2016
In reply to ffati:

Ah mate, enjoy! MY pal and I climbed it late September 2015. It's virtually a sport route with pitons all the way up. Some better than others!! Some are very dodgy.

We placed maybe half dozen bits of gear each on the whole route. Rack of .5, .75, 1, 2 and 3 camelots, about 10 medium sized wires, 10 extendable draws and 5 normal sport draws though I think you'll be good with 10 or 12..? I'd still take 15

The rock fax guide proved super useful, especially for the descent. The best route and descent description I've seen.

We finished in the dark and had a cold uncomfortable night at the finishing ledge. Had we have known, we would have traversed the ledge around to the south face where there are much better options.

It's a proper north face and was pretty nippy but this was late September.

Thick mountaineering socks
Soft shell trousers
Thin base layer
Thicker Ice Breaker
Softshell hoody jacket
Medium weight / warmth gloves at the belays definitely a good idea and stuffed them inside jacket whilst climbing
Beany
3L Bladder, bars and chocolate etc
Bothy bag; if you're like us, slow and prone to ledge bivis, a bothy bag is a brilliant idea.
Use the lightest approach shoe you have. It's a super easy walk in

Hope the weather holds out for you and start super early to get the jump on crowds. I understand it gets crowded in season. We had it to ourselves out of season

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