UKC

La Sportiva Trango Alp GTX vs Trango Extreme Evo Light

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James198379 17 May 2016
Hi,

I'm basically after a good all round boot that will be comfortable but still deal with steep alpine terrain on snow, rock and to some extent ice. I am replacing a pair of Nepal Extremes and I recently ordered a pair of La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX boots. The shop mistakenly ordered the La Sportiva Trango Alp GTX instead. I have been wearing them around the house and they are very comfortable but i'm a little worried that they aren't quite stiff enough to handle what i want to do in them.

Can anyone weigh in? Has anyone climbed in the Alp and how has it performed on steeper snow and ice with a C2 crampon (BD Serac)?

How do people find the extreme evo in comparison? I understand it is a light and comfortable B3 where the Alp is a B2. I realise it all comes down to fit etc but any input regarding the pros and cons of these two boots would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

James
 Brian Pollock 17 May 2016
In reply to James198379:

I used the Trango Alps for about 2 years. They were pretty tight in the toe box fit wise i remember which resulted in bruised toenails when frontpointing. I used them for some Scottish winter up to grade IV and on one trip to the Alps on routes up to AD+. They were fine for the Alps in summer (on less technical ground) but not really cut out for Scotland. They weren't really warm enough for belays although fine for moving quickly on easier stuff.

If you're after a tough walking boot with some cross over for easier climbing then go with the Alps.

If you want a boot to climb in, go with the Sxtreme.
In reply to James198379:

I've used Trango Extreme Evos for past 4/5 years and still going strong Fantastic
Lightweight Boots , great for most things Winter , some folk don't find them warm enough but I've never found that to be a problem! I love mine

I did have a pair of Trango Alps after I wore out a pair of Trango S boots nearly 9 years from them ,and I stupidly replaced with the Trango Alps ,I hated them just felt like a different boot to me feet couldn't get on with them , however if you find them comfy and your not climbing Any vertical ice they'll be great for Winter Walking /Mountaineering and upto grade 3/4 on the right feet

 Mark Haward 17 May 2016
In reply to James198379:

I know nothing about the Alp. I have used the Evo Lights for several years and found them excellent for summer alps rock, ice and mixed as long as you are not hanging around too much on the highest / coldest routes. Scottish winter I have found they perform well; good for mixed, snow and ice as long as your feet aren't buried in snow for too long or you are hanging around a long time on the coldest days.
Have you tried the Nepal Cubes?
Climber Phil 17 May 2016
In reply to James198379:

You should check out the trango ice cubes. Way better boot than the trango extreme evos
 andrewmc 18 May 2016
In reply to Master of Ice:

> You should check out the trango ice cubes. Way better boot than the trango extreme evos

Reflected in the price...
James198379 19 May 2016
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Thanks! Great advice.
James198379 19 May 2016
In reply to Mark Haward:

I haven't... Not seen any in the shops around me. I've heard good things.
James198379 19 May 2016
In reply to Master of Ice:

Unfortunately I am on a bit of a budget but i will shop around. Thanks!
Climber Phil 19 May 2016
In reply to James198379:

I've seen the ice cubes for decent prices new on eBay. I've used the trango extremes for years but was amazed at the difference of the ice cubes in comparison. A lot warmer and lighter.
mhart 19 May 2016
In reply to Master of Ice:
Anyone got any feedback on the trango ice cubes for walking?
Climber Phil 20 May 2016
In reply to mhart:
They feel a little bit clumpy on hard pack, but on snow etc they felt fine. They sole is quite flat on them as in not much of a rocker compared to the trango Evo extreme

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