UKC

Symphony crack belay-Rhoscolyn

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 Otis 17 May 2016
I'll hopefully be somewhere close to rhoscolyn in a couple of weeks and would love to tick this one off. My partner doesn't lead, so I'd be doing the fun bits. I was wondering what the belay stance is like between P1 and P2? Will me leading all of this be a hassle and is the stance a bit too cramped? My (fairly limited) multi pitching to date has all involved block leading, but with pretty generous ledges to work with.

Cheers,

Mike.
 philhilo 17 May 2016
In reply to Otis:

I don't know about the route in question but you can always switch leads or block lead anywhere. Just involves sorting out the belay and ropes upon partners arrival. Works the same whether you are on a party ledge or a hanging belay, less space slightly more faff but same process.
 RyanOsborne 17 May 2016
In reply to Otis:
If you have two ropes, you can quite easily do it in one pitch from the end of the scramble i.e. left (looking in) of the step across onto the traverse. Then just clip the right hand rope on the route, and use the left to protect your second on the traverse.
Post edited at 14:04
 Rog Wilko 17 May 2016
In reply to Otis:

From my recollection the midway stance is large but not easy to make comfortable. There are plenty of anchors, but I seem to remember it was difficult to arrange a stance well below them rather than at the same level as them, if I'm making sense!
The first pitch (traverse) is quite scary for a diff. If you have a less experienced second the traverse may seem less than secure. Plenty of pro for the second to begin with, but then no more. If the traverse is a problem you could ab down to the belay ledge and just do the main corner crack, but that would be a shame.
Not meaning to put you off - it is a great little route.
In reply to Otis:

Did this again at the weekend, twin ropes avoid rope drag and it is best to do it in one pitch. I've done it maybe a dozen times at least and have never split the climb and always done it in one pitch. The traverse is easy but exposed and the corner itself is a delight. Also suggest you head over to Porth Saint (10 min walk) where there are a number of great little routes (all single pitch) and less exposed - akin to Burbage with the sea....................
Have fun

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