UKC

I'm heading to Chamonix next week for 4 days of climbing and I had routes like Chapelle de la Glière and L'Index in mind until realising yesterday that the lifts won't be open. Having slogged up below the lifts to Plan Plaz last year I'd rather avoid that if possible!

Given the ridiculous number of options available and limited time I have to plan/climb, I was hoping that someone familiar with the area could point out 2 or 3 most suitable routes. I'm after:
- long and adventurous
- up to 6a sport, or VDiff equivalent if a bit trad-y
- rock only, no alpine
- enjoyable long approaches OK but no glacier travel
- have a car, so out of town OK

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

In reply to s1362083:

That's the first time I've seen 6a = VDiff!

In reply to jon:

I'm a chicken and drop grades significantly with trad, especially if it's multi pitch .

In reply to s1362083:
Take the car upto Le Buet and walk into the Berard Valley. This one is a cracker.
L'Ete Indien (TD 6a+)

In reply to s1362083:

This guidebook is likely to help you out:

https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/categories/climbing/selected-climbs-mo...

It worked for me in situations when I wanted to get a lot done in a week or so.

In reply to liz j:

You may want to rethink as your options may be further restricted by the amount of snow still present.
It's lingering much more this year than usual. It's still like early April out there so go with a alternative game plan & a ability to drive, maybe Pisse Vache in Swiss..??

In reply to s1362083:
" up to 6a sport, or VDiff equivalent if a bit trad-y"

You are going to need to be careful on that one as I've found it not at all unusual on multi pitch crags away from the road that by the time you are climbing F6a routes, individual pitches of around UK Severe standard may have very few or perhaps no bolts at all (between the bolted belays)

In reply to CurlyStevo:

There's a reason I always carry a set of nuts when climbing big 'alpine' sports routes...

In reply to liz j:

This looks like exactly what I had in mind.

In reply to walts4:

Looks good!

In reply to walts4:


Is it still possible to ski? I'm out there next week for a couple of days and quite happy to spend a couple of days ski touring if there's snow. Is Mt Buet still skiable? With lifts and huts closed accessing higher stuff is slightly more complicated..