In reply to john morrissey:
It's worth mentioning that the routes on the Main Cliff tend to remain quite greasy until the sun hits, as such it's usually worth waiting midday/early afternoon before getting on routes. The levels of vaseline coating the rock can be quite alarming and certainly makes things a lot more difficult (and a lot less enjoyable)!!
That said, if you've got a specific weekend in mind this doesn't really help you much...