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Thursday's going slowly, so some routes to aspire to for later in the year would make it all better.
I'm looking for recommendations for some soft or fair HVS 5bs. I suppose I'm better at balancey climbing and crack climbing, so an emphasis on those would be good. Thanks for any advice.
I'm looking for recommendations for some soft or fair HVS 5bs. I suppose I'm better at balancey climbing and crack climbing, so an emphasis on those would be good. Thanks for any advice.
In reply to SenzuBean:
Where? Rocktype preference?
I find breaking a grade on a rock I climb on regularly and that I feel comfortable on easier.
Where? Rocktype preference?
I find breaking a grade on a rock I climb on regularly and that I feel comfortable on easier.
In reply to SenzuBean:
A few that spring to mind at Stanage Popular :
Eliminator - good jug hauling, bomber gear for every move, fairly strenuous so not quite what you asked for, but good clean fun.
Rugosity Crack - a really nice line, well protected with smaller stuff, and there are a couple of good finger jams on there.
Paucity - quite short but enjoyable, the crux isn't as well protected as the previous two but more balancey and very much worth getting on.
Whillans' Pendulum and Black Magic - steep and juggy then nicely delicate slab climbing up the rib to the left of Hargreaves'.
Congo Corner - quite a tough start up a crack, then more delicate traversing and face climbing.
Leaning Buttress Direct - only 5b for the first couple of moves, but good fun nonetheless, and classic break-to-break Stanage slab climbing.
Tower Crack at the Plantation is also good fun if burly jamming is one of your interests, and a couple of others that spring to mind are Portfolio at Windgather (steep and crimpy) and Ricochet Wall at Shooter's Nab, near Huddersfield (more esoteric and supposedly - but not - E1, with excellent, well protected wall climbing, then a wonderful splitter crack).
I've been doing a fair few routes at the grade recently (hence my reply - almost all of these I've done this year), and have found it really good preparation for getting more solid at E1/2.
Edit: Good job you're looking for grit routes! All of those save Leaning Buttress Direct are superbly well protected, I'd say, with zero chance of hitting the ground assuming you have a competent belayer and can place gear properly. LBD only has 5b moves to leave the ground, in fairness, so you can just get your belayer to spot you, but admittedly after that it's more like a couple of 4c/5a moves and then progressively easier ground to the top.
A few that spring to mind at Stanage Popular :
Eliminator - good jug hauling, bomber gear for every move, fairly strenuous so not quite what you asked for, but good clean fun.
Rugosity Crack - a really nice line, well protected with smaller stuff, and there are a couple of good finger jams on there.
Paucity - quite short but enjoyable, the crux isn't as well protected as the previous two but more balancey and very much worth getting on.
Whillans' Pendulum and Black Magic - steep and juggy then nicely delicate slab climbing up the rib to the left of Hargreaves'.
Congo Corner - quite a tough start up a crack, then more delicate traversing and face climbing.
Leaning Buttress Direct - only 5b for the first couple of moves, but good fun nonetheless, and classic break-to-break Stanage slab climbing.
Tower Crack at the Plantation is also good fun if burly jamming is one of your interests, and a couple of others that spring to mind are Portfolio at Windgather (steep and crimpy) and Ricochet Wall at Shooter's Nab, near Huddersfield (more esoteric and supposedly - but not - E1, with excellent, well protected wall climbing, then a wonderful splitter crack).
I've been doing a fair few routes at the grade recently (hence my reply - almost all of these I've done this year), and have found it really good preparation for getting more solid at E1/2.
Edit: Good job you're looking for grit routes! All of those save Leaning Buttress Direct are superbly well protected, I'd say, with zero chance of hitting the ground assuming you have a competent belayer and can place gear properly. LBD only has 5b moves to leave the ground, in fairness, so you can just get your belayer to spot you, but admittedly after that it's more like a couple of 4c/5a moves and then progressively easier ground to the top.
Post edited at 13:12
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In reply to galpinos:
Anywhere south of the Lakes. Grit, North Wales, South West, Swanage would all be good options. No preference on rocktype really, although I suppose I find longer routes a bit easier (the cruxes seem to be less scary when you've got loads of gear between you and the ground!), so that puts grit out a bit.
> Where? Rocktype preference?
> I find breaking a grade on a rock I climb on regularly and that I feel comfortable on easier.
Anywhere south of the Lakes. Grit, North Wales, South West, Swanage would all be good options. No preference on rocktype really, although I suppose I find longer routes a bit easier (the cruxes seem to be less scary when you've got loads of gear between you and the ground!), so that puts grit out a bit.
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In reply to Droyd:
Thanks that's a good list. I'm hopefully heading up in a few weeks to try the Stanage VS challenge (gulp), so after that I should be ready to jump on those routes.
Thanks that's a good list. I'm hopefully heading up in a few weeks to try the Stanage VS challenge (gulp), so after that I should be ready to jump on those routes.
In reply to SenzuBean:
Well it's only 5a, but I see you've done Finale Groove so Behemoth (HVS 5a) would be worth a look, the second pitch is pretty much continuous 5a with no let up, a bigger challenge than a route with a single 5b move.
Well it's only 5a, but I see you've done Finale Groove so Behemoth (HVS 5a) would be worth a look, the second pitch is pretty much continuous 5a with no let up, a bigger challenge than a route with a single 5b move.
In reply to EddInaBox:
Cool will try and get that next time.
Looks brilliant - and also looks a lot harder than FG too.
> Well it's only 5a, but I see you've done Finale Groove so Behemoth (HVS 5a) would be worth a look, the second pitch is pretty much continuous 5a with no let up, a bigger challenge than a route with a single 5b move.
Cool will try and get that next time.
Looks brilliant - and also looks a lot harder than FG too.
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In reply to SenzuBean:
One of my favourites on Stanage is The Blurter
The Blurter (HVS 5b)
In the same area, The Knutter is also good though short
The Knutter (HVS 5b)
One of my favourites on Stanage is The Blurter
The Blurter (HVS 5b)
In the same area, The Knutter is also good though short
The Knutter (HVS 5b)
In reply to Droyd:
Great list for Stan Pop. Another nice little one is Pedlar's Arête (HVS 5b) with gear just where the mildly technical moves are. I'm also fond of Meiosis (HVS 5b) - crux at the start, and possibly a bit bold, but feels easy at the grade to me (I like rounded breaks). The Flange (HVS 5b) has a good 5b overhang at the start and delicate moves above.
Further along, Fina (HVS 5b) has excellent, balancy moves with good gear and rests.
Once you go further left, there are some right horrors at the grade, e.g. Surprise (vile!), Kelly's, Deuteronomy, Terrazza, Surgeons...
Edit: seems Pedlar's has been downgraded to 5a, which is reasonable.
Edit: With reference to the Yorkshire Grit thread, oh look, stacks and stacks of brilliant routes at one specific grade, all at the same crag. Who'd a thunk? And between two of us we haven't even mentioned Good Friday (bit high in the grade), or Prudence, or Travesties...
Great list for Stan Pop. Another nice little one is Pedlar's Arête (HVS 5b) with gear just where the mildly technical moves are. I'm also fond of Meiosis (HVS 5b) - crux at the start, and possibly a bit bold, but feels easy at the grade to me (I like rounded breaks). The Flange (HVS 5b) has a good 5b overhang at the start and delicate moves above.
Further along, Fina (HVS 5b) has excellent, balancy moves with good gear and rests.
Once you go further left, there are some right horrors at the grade, e.g. Surprise (vile!), Kelly's, Deuteronomy, Terrazza, Surgeons...
Edit: seems Pedlar's has been downgraded to 5a, which is reasonable.
Edit: With reference to the Yorkshire Grit thread, oh look, stacks and stacks of brilliant routes at one specific grade, all at the same crag. Who'd a thunk? And between two of us we haven't even mentioned Good Friday (bit high in the grade), or Prudence, or Travesties...
Post edited at 13:32
In reply to SenzuBean: Intro HVS 5bs is almost an oxymoron; however there are some "1" move wonders which might be classed as intro...
Whillan's Pendulum @ Stanage - butch moves, can then decide whether to do Black Magic or continue up Hargreaves.
Zapple @Yarncliffe - only the start is 5b, having problems, do the variation 5a start.
Kaisergebirge Wall @Clogwyn Y Grochan - 5b crux at the end with a good rest beforehand.
Some that are not intro at HVS 5b...
Hypothesis @Roaches is quality at the grade and is balancy but I don't think it would get many arguments if it was upped to E1 5b.
Anything on the Exodus/Deuteronomy wall @Stanage - not done them but even the HVS 5a there is very pumpy.
Chequer's Crack @Froggatt - assuming it hasn't been regarded (upwards).
Hen Cloud Eliminate @Hen Cloud - always felt too intimidated to even try this when HVS 5b was an ok grade for me.
Afraid these are rather grit-centric.
Whillan's Pendulum @ Stanage - butch moves, can then decide whether to do Black Magic or continue up Hargreaves.
Zapple @Yarncliffe - only the start is 5b, having problems, do the variation 5a start.
Kaisergebirge Wall @Clogwyn Y Grochan - 5b crux at the end with a good rest beforehand.
Some that are not intro at HVS 5b...
Hypothesis @Roaches is quality at the grade and is balancy but I don't think it would get many arguments if it was upped to E1 5b.
Anything on the Exodus/Deuteronomy wall @Stanage - not done them but even the HVS 5a there is very pumpy.
Chequer's Crack @Froggatt - assuming it hasn't been regarded (upwards).
Hen Cloud Eliminate @Hen Cloud - always felt too intimidated to even try this when HVS 5b was an ok grade for me.
Afraid these are rather grit-centric.
In reply to SenzuBean:
It is, and if you do go to do it then The Golden Fleece (HVS 5a) is almost next to it and worth doing, just make sure you get the correct start in the corner or you'll be on the E2 to the left.
> Looks brilliant - and also looks a lot harder than FG too.
It is, and if you do go to do it then The Golden Fleece (HVS 5a) is almost next to it and worth doing, just make sure you get the correct start in the corner or you'll be on the E2 to the left.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
I guess that's part of what I'm looking for. Safe climbs to do a 5b move on, just to gain confidence on them. Thanks for the rest of the list - lots to go at.
> Intro HVS 5bs is almost an oxymoron; however there are some "1" move wonders which might be classed as intro...
I guess that's part of what I'm looking for. Safe climbs to do a 5b move on, just to gain confidence on them. Thanks for the rest of the list - lots to go at.
In reply to SenzuBean:
It's a trick question isn't it? There are no soft or fair HVS 5b's. Everyone knows E1 is easier!
It's a trick question isn't it? There are no soft or fair HVS 5b's. Everyone knows E1 is easier!
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In reply to SenzuBean:
August Arete at Stanage is a soft HVS 5b. Very pleasant, but probably VS 5a imo ...
August Arete at Stanage is a soft HVS 5b. Very pleasant, but probably VS 5a imo ...
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In reply to bullwinkle:
I'll take whatever I can get
> August Arete at Stanage is a soft HVS 5b. Very pleasant, but probably VS 5a imo ...
I'll take whatever I can get
In reply to SenzuBean:
Zapple sounds a good call.
Eliminator felt okay to me for the grade.
Peapod at Curbar perhaps.
Rhodren at Roaches possibly.
Zapple sounds a good call.
Eliminator felt okay to me for the grade.
Peapod at Curbar perhaps.
Rhodren at Roaches possibly.
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In reply to Droyd:
Congo corner is brilliant, also soft at 5b and pretty well protected.
Congo corner is brilliant, also soft at 5b and pretty well protected.
Post edited at 14:58
In reply to SenzuBean:
Get some old and new guides for the same area and find which ones have been upgraded to HVS 5b (best if it's from HVS 5a) - some of the suggestions above have done this; e.g. August Arete, Peapod.
Get some old and new guides for the same area and find which ones have been upgraded to HVS 5b (best if it's from HVS 5a) - some of the suggestions above have done this; e.g. August Arete, Peapod.
In reply to SenzuBean:
Ok, so officially it's E1, but it is really HVS and has a safe 5b crux: Bad to the Bone (E1 5b) - it also fits with your strengths (some balance useful and a rising crack section to negotiate) - leaving the crack to reach good pockets is the crux IIRC.
Ok, so officially it's E1, but it is really HVS and has a safe 5b crux: Bad to the Bone (E1 5b) - it also fits with your strengths (some balance useful and a rising crack section to negotiate) - leaving the crack to reach good pockets is the crux IIRC.
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In reply to The Ivanator:
Nice! I remember leading Rob's Crack and finding it a cakewalk at the grade - with Withy crack + Bad to the Bone that's definitely worth heading back to FCQ.
> Ok, so officially it's E1, but it is really HVS and has a safe 5b crux: Bad to the Bone (E1 5b) - it also fits with your strengths (some balance useful and a rising crack section to negotiate) - leaving the crack to reach good pockets is the crux IIRC.
Nice! I remember leading Rob's Crack and finding it a cakewalk at the grade - with Withy crack + Bad to the Bone that's definitely worth heading back to FCQ.
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In reply to SenzuBean:
You should try Ash Tree Variations (VS 5c) if you're around Burbage and fancy a 5c tick - I don't think it would give you any problems.
You should try Ash Tree Variations (VS 5c) if you're around Burbage and fancy a 5c tick - I don't think it would give you any problems.
In reply to SenzuBean:
Plenty of that at the left end of Slipstones, take a rope and you're spoiled for choice at safe 5b.
The Peapod (HVS 5b) is a satisfying and safe wriggle at the grade
Alternatively, go bouldering.
jk
> I guess that's part of what I'm looking for. Safe climbs to do a 5b move on, just to gain confidence on them. Thanks for the rest of the list - lots to go at.
Plenty of that at the left end of Slipstones, take a rope and you're spoiled for choice at safe 5b.
The Peapod (HVS 5b) is a satisfying and safe wriggle at the grade
Alternatively, go bouldering.
jk
In reply to SenzuBean:
I've always found the HVS s on the grochan hard work. Start with Brandt direct, then Wind, then the multi pitch one with a wide but reasonable crack. they're all steep some a touch mean and when you've ticked the lot you can head up valley and cruise cemetery gates
I've always found the HVS s on the grochan hard work. Start with Brandt direct, then Wind, then the multi pitch one with a wide but reasonable crack. they're all steep some a touch mean and when you've ticked the lot you can head up valley and cruise cemetery gates
In reply to Michael Hood:
Hard for E2.
> Hen Cloud Eliminate @Hen Cloud - always felt too intimidated to even try this when HVS 5b was an ok grade for me.
Hard for E2.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
I agree. I'd add Tower Eliminate as another one to avoid.
I honestly think that Matinee might fit the bill if the OP is OK at jamming. As long as it's dry the first pitch is pretty straightforward. The top can be baffling, especially for the short, but it's safe and escapable.
Second's Advance would be my recommendation at Hen Cloud. It's 5b on the logbooks here but it's pretty soft for that I think, as long as it's clean and you move left into the chimney thing at the top and don't do the desperate rounded top in the direct line. Given the photo exposure this route has had in the last two guidebooks I'd hope it's clean, but I haven't done it for a while.
Of course, there's always the super-classic Bachelor's Left Hand... I always think the polished crack at the start is the worst bit, as long as you spot where the crucial jug is at the end of the traverse. Not as hard as it looks, but too good to spoil by bottling it!
Others in the Staffs grit area might be Toe Rail at Back Forest (steepish but big holds and well protected, and only 5b at the bottom if you don't cheat) and Boysen's Delight on 4th Cloud (actually 5c, but the crux is low down, very short and perfectly protected).
> Some that are not intro at HVS 5b...
> Hypothesis @Roaches is quality at the grade and is balancy but I don't think it would get many arguments if it was upped to E1 5b.
I agree. I'd add Tower Eliminate as another one to avoid.
I honestly think that Matinee might fit the bill if the OP is OK at jamming. As long as it's dry the first pitch is pretty straightforward. The top can be baffling, especially for the short, but it's safe and escapable.
> Hen Cloud Eliminate @Hen Cloud - always felt too intimidated to even try this when HVS 5b was an ok grade for me.
Second's Advance would be my recommendation at Hen Cloud. It's 5b on the logbooks here but it's pretty soft for that I think, as long as it's clean and you move left into the chimney thing at the top and don't do the desperate rounded top in the direct line. Given the photo exposure this route has had in the last two guidebooks I'd hope it's clean, but I haven't done it for a while.
Of course, there's always the super-classic Bachelor's Left Hand... I always think the polished crack at the start is the worst bit, as long as you spot where the crucial jug is at the end of the traverse. Not as hard as it looks, but too good to spoil by bottling it!
Others in the Staffs grit area might be Toe Rail at Back Forest (steepish but big holds and well protected, and only 5b at the bottom if you don't cheat) and Boysen's Delight on 4th Cloud (actually 5c, but the crux is low down, very short and perfectly protected).
Post edited at 15:32
In reply to SenzuBean:
Comes the Seth (HVS 5a) is another worthwhile one for an FCQ trip, Toblerone (E1 5b) might also be worth a look - well protected one move wonder crux, the hard move is nudging 5c.
Comes the Seth (HVS 5a) is another worthwhile one for an FCQ trip, Toblerone (E1 5b) might also be worth a look - well protected one move wonder crux, the hard move is nudging 5c.
Post edited at 15:36
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In reply to SenzuBean:
If you want balancey climbing and cracks at HVS 5b, Baggy is the place for you.
Check out Dream Lover, Pickpocket, Midnight Cowboy and Sexilegs, and then you can start on the E1s...
If you want balancey climbing and cracks at HVS 5b, Baggy is the place for you.
Check out Dream Lover, Pickpocket, Midnight Cowboy and Sexilegs, and then you can start on the E1s...
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In reply to SenzuBean:
Theres a few good HVS well protected type things at Millstone. Get going and then look at great north road, though it is no push over at the grade.
Swanage has plenty to go at. Stars are a good indicator of a reasonably stable top out imo.
Theres a few good HVS well protected type things at Millstone. Get going and then look at great north road, though it is no push over at the grade.
Swanage has plenty to go at. Stars are a good indicator of a reasonably stable top out imo.
In reply to alasdair19:
Cemetery Gates seems fairly easy compared to Brant Direct! Completely different styles obviously.
Cemetery Gates seems fairly easy compared to Brant Direct! Completely different styles obviously.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Good shout. One of my first VS 5as was Lost Horizon and I felt it was totally fair. I'm arranging a trip there later in August so will try and get on those (plus Lunakhod if possible).
> If you want balancey climbing and cracks at HVS 5b, Baggy is the place for you.
> Check out Dream Lover, Pickpocket, Midnight Cowboy and Sexilegs, and then you can start on the E1s...
Good shout. One of my first VS 5as was Lost Horizon and I felt it was totally fair. I'm arranging a trip there later in August so will try and get on those (plus Lunakhod if possible).
In reply to JackM92:
both gates and ivy sepulchre get HVS in the late 80s guide. For me there both a full. grade below the corner. Perhaps unless your very good at bridging...
both gates and ivy sepulchre get HVS in the late 80s guide. For me there both a full. grade below the corner. Perhaps unless your very good at bridging...
In reply to Droyd:
I'd recommend few of those.. a combination of toughness, and moderate boldness. Why the 5b specification? For HVS climbs BAWS crawl was always the favourite starter. I'd add Hardings Super Direct, Agony Crack and Old Salt.
I'd recommend few of those.. a combination of toughness, and moderate boldness. Why the 5b specification? For HVS climbs BAWS crawl was always the favourite starter. I'd add Hardings Super Direct, Agony Crack and Old Salt.
Post edited at 17:35
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
Matinee for an early HVS!... when did this cruel streak develop?? Maybe for someone who loves brutal VS flaring clefts like Broken Crack. Only Toe Nail seems fair to me from that list ((BLH regularly bites back at extreme leaders)
Matinee for an early HVS!... when did this cruel streak develop?? Maybe for someone who loves brutal VS flaring clefts like Broken Crack. Only Toe Nail seems fair to me from that list ((BLH regularly bites back at extreme leaders)
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In reply to SenzuBean:
For some comedy:
1) Bovine at Craig y Wennalt. First pitch was erm... interesting.
2) Levitation Direct at Low Man. An absolute classic (SB) at the grade.
Enjoy.
For some comedy:
1) Bovine at Craig y Wennalt. First pitch was erm... interesting.
2) Levitation Direct at Low Man. An absolute classic (SB) at the grade.
Enjoy.
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In reply to SenzuBean:
On a slightly more serious note though, Great Portland Street (HVS 5b) would fit the bill. Straightforward once you work out the first moves.
On a slightly more serious note though, Great Portland Street (HVS 5b) would fit the bill. Straightforward once you work out the first moves.
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In reply to SenzuBean:
The interesting thing is that most of the popular HVS climbs at Baggy (not Dream Lover which I haven't done, or Pickpocket which is great) are on a much shallower angle slab than Lost Horizon
Also I think Looning the Tube (E1 5a) gets HVS 5b in some guide... I have only seconded it but I'm not sure there was a 5b move on it...
> Good shout. One of my first VS 5as was Lost Horizon and I felt it was totally fair. I'm arranging a trip there later in August so will try and get on those (plus Lunakhod if possible).
The interesting thing is that most of the popular HVS climbs at Baggy (not Dream Lover which I haven't done, or Pickpocket which is great) are on a much shallower angle slab than Lost Horizon
Also I think Looning the Tube (E1 5a) gets HVS 5b in some guide... I have only seconded it but I'm not sure there was a 5b move on it...
Post edited at 19:24
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In reply to SenzuBean:
If "south of the Lakes" includes 'the South Lakes' then I would suggest Laugh Not (HVS 5b) at White Ghyll in Langdale.
The fall from the crux felt safe enough that I got straight back on it and promptly fell off again.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=116797
> Anywhere south of the Lakes
> (the cruxes seem to be less scary when you've got loads of gear between you and the ground!)
If "south of the Lakes" includes 'the South Lakes' then I would suggest Laugh Not (HVS 5b) at White Ghyll in Langdale.
The fall from the crux felt safe enough that I got straight back on it and promptly fell off again.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=116797
In reply to August West:
Bloody 'eck that looks nails! :p
> If "south of the Lakes" includes 'the South Lakes' then I would suggest Laugh Not (HVS 5b) at White Ghyll in Langdale.
> The fall from the crux felt safe enough that I got straight back on it and promptly fell off again.
Bloody 'eck that looks nails! :p
In reply to SenzuBean:
Fracticide wall only 5a, but rather than tackle your strengths, cover your weaknesses.
eraser slab, tech crack, eliminator or parliament in the peak, all 5b. bit short, better to get multi pitch to claim the grade!
meshach, diagonal and kipling groove, not quite technical enough, but prolonged 5a, not just a single crus move. Corner on cloggy. Think there are some others on white gyhll in the lakes too.
Fracticide wall only 5a, but rather than tackle your strengths, cover your weaknesses.
eraser slab, tech crack, eliminator or parliament in the peak, all 5b. bit short, better to get multi pitch to claim the grade!
meshach, diagonal and kipling groove, not quite technical enough, but prolonged 5a, not just a single crus move. Corner on cloggy. Think there are some others on white gyhll in the lakes too.
In reply to Offwidth:
Not early HVS but safe and not sustained at HVS 5b. I still think the first pitch is steady if you can jam (not too steep, good rests). The top is dead safe but either a long reach, dead awkward or there's the short man's thin diversion onto the wall on the left before more or less stepping onto the top. Or, escape up Valkyrie or off into the corner.
BLH isn't as hard as it looks but I did say it was maybe not one to start on. What's wrong with Boysen's Delight for something technical and safe but still only HVS?
Mantis with a pad and spotters might be another option.
> Matinee for an early HVS!... when did this cruel streak develop?? Maybe for someone who loves brutal VS flaring clefts like Broken Crack. Only Toe Nail seems fair to me from that list ((BLH regularly bites back at extreme leaders)
Not early HVS but safe and not sustained at HVS 5b. I still think the first pitch is steady if you can jam (not too steep, good rests). The top is dead safe but either a long reach, dead awkward or there's the short man's thin diversion onto the wall on the left before more or less stepping onto the top. Or, escape up Valkyrie or off into the corner.
BLH isn't as hard as it looks but I did say it was maybe not one to start on. What's wrong with Boysen's Delight for something technical and safe but still only HVS?
Mantis with a pad and spotters might be another option.
In reply to summo:
Yeah my weakness seems to be roofs, slopers and mantles. I'm working on them though
If that's Meshach at Tremadog I've done it. I found it quite alright (apart from the move to get to the peg) which took me a while to work out. I'll have a look at the others.
> Fracticide wall only 5a, but rather than tackle your strengths, cover your weaknesses.
Yeah my weakness seems to be roofs, slopers and mantles. I'm working on them though
> meshach, diagonal and kipling groove, not quite technical enough, but prolonged 5a, not just a single crus move. Corner on cloggy. Think there are some others on white gyhll in the lakes too.
If that's Meshach at Tremadog I've done it. I found it quite alright (apart from the move to get to the peg) which took me a while to work out. I'll have a look at the others.
In reply to SenzuBean: Good angle on that shot of Laugh Not - it's not really that steep except for the last bit. I didn't know it had gone up to 5b.
Also - has BLH @Hen Cloud been upgraded to 5b, why? has something fallen off? I thought it was meant to be a classic mid-grade HVS 5a like R Unconquerable.
Also - has BLH @Hen Cloud been upgraded to 5b, why? has something fallen off? I thought it was meant to be a classic mid-grade HVS 5a like R Unconquerable.
In reply to Michael Hood:
It's got a 5b start, then solid 5a jamming up the crack to a crux 5b move moving left onto the traverse, then back to 5a for the rest of the route. It's harder than an average E2 5b, nationally. And possibly the best route of its style in the country?
> Also - has BLH @Hen Cloud been upgraded to 5b, why? has something fallen off? I thought it was meant to be a classic mid-grade HVS 5a like R Unconquerable.
It's got a 5b start, then solid 5a jamming up the crack to a crux 5b move moving left onto the traverse, then back to 5a for the rest of the route. It's harder than an average E2 5b, nationally. And possibly the best route of its style in the country?
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In reply to Jon Stewart:
When I did it many years ago, HVS 5a (Staffs) seemed OK. Crux was moving right up the diagonal crack.
You've done a lot of stuff nationally over the last few years, so if you reckon it's as hard as a lot of E2 5bs, that means there were a lot of quality routes I missed out on then - I was (and still am) largely Peak-centric.
I always thought it was a great route due to the variety of styles required in a short distance.
When I did it many years ago, HVS 5a (Staffs) seemed OK. Crux was moving right up the diagonal crack.
You've done a lot of stuff nationally over the last few years, so if you reckon it's as hard as a lot of E2 5bs, that means there were a lot of quality routes I missed out on then - I was (and still am) largely Peak-centric.
I always thought it was a great route due to the variety of styles required in a short distance.
Post edited at 07:30
In reply to Offwidth:
I'm guessing the OP is looking to step up to E1 and wants to try some of the more technical HVS climbs. The climbs you list are for people breaking in to HVS IMO.
> I'd recommend few of those.. a combination of toughness, and moderate boldness. Why the 5b specification? For HVS climbs BAWS crawl was always the favourite starter. I'd add Hardings Super Direct, Agony Crack and Old Salt.
I'm guessing the OP is looking to step up to E1 and wants to try some of the more technical HVS climbs. The climbs you list are for people breaking in to HVS IMO.
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I just read what he said: soft or fair safe place to try a 5b move etc, isnt a climber moving into E1 on grit (other than sneaking a soft touch)
I just read what he said: soft or fair safe place to try a 5b move etc, isnt a climber moving into E1 on grit (other than sneaking a soft touch)
1
In reply to Offwidth:
Ok the intention doesn't really matter. If the OP is looking for some soft or easy HVS 5b to aspire to why advise a bunch of HVS 5a's that are no harder than ones he's recently lead?
Most climbers are really looking to improve in the long term IMO. What HVS climber doesn't aspire to E1, especially once solid at HVS 5b. Anyway.......
Ok the intention doesn't really matter. If the OP is looking for some soft or easy HVS 5b to aspire to why advise a bunch of HVS 5a's that are no harder than ones he's recently lead?
Most climbers are really looking to improve in the long term IMO. What HVS climber doesn't aspire to E1, especially once solid at HVS 5b. Anyway.......
Post edited at 09:01
1
In reply to SenzuBean:
Green Crack (HVS 5b) Hard (very hard) but safe and it fits your balance/crack brief.
jk
Green Crack (HVS 5b) Hard (very hard) but safe and it fits your balance/crack brief.
jk
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I take your point but its a bit depressing to see more people ending up dogging grit classics because they are not ready and the routes are showing it with broken flakes and more recently slots being ground out by cams. Baggy Point seems ideal for the OP rather than some of the unlikely possibilities suggested here on grit. In the Peak, Limestone trad would be a better bet.
Anyone solid at HVS should have led a soft E3 that suits them. I'm not even solid at VS on Yorkshire grit yet have ticked several Extremes.
I take your point but its a bit depressing to see more people ending up dogging grit classics because they are not ready and the routes are showing it with broken flakes and more recently slots being ground out by cams. Baggy Point seems ideal for the OP rather than some of the unlikely possibilities suggested here on grit. In the Peak, Limestone trad would be a better bet.
Anyone solid at HVS should have led a soft E3 that suits them. I'm not even solid at VS on Yorkshire grit yet have ticked several Extremes.
In reply to Offwidth:
"I'm not even solid at VS on Yorkshire grit"
Strangely that makes me feel better
"I'm not even solid at VS on Yorkshire grit"
Strangely that makes me feel better
Unicorn and Sickle in the pass fit the bill, and were both leads I remember as having a big feel while not being hard enough to get E1. Certainly not easy plodding followed by overhead gear and a single hard move, and all the better for it.
1
In reply to Offwidth:
I was thinking that but (partly because of some regrading) I struggled to come up with anything suitable and really good. High on the best avoided list would be Claw Left Hand...
However, a day at Staden wouldn't be wasted (is it ever?) for some quality mileage at HVS/E1, 5a/5b:
Joint Effort, the Nails, Bicycle Repair Man, Swan Song, Charas, Liquid Courage.
> In the Peak, Limestone trad would be a better bet.
I was thinking that but (partly because of some regrading) I struggled to come up with anything suitable and really good. High on the best avoided list would be Claw Left Hand...
However, a day at Staden wouldn't be wasted (is it ever?) for some quality mileage at HVS/E1, 5a/5b:
Joint Effort, the Nails, Bicycle Repair Man, Swan Song, Charas, Liquid Courage.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Gangue Grooves (HVS 5b)?
> I was thinking that but (partly because of some regrading) I struggled to come up with anything suitable and really good.
Gangue Grooves (HVS 5b)?
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