UKC

Typical chamonix conditions in July?

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 bogpetre 20 May 2016
Hey,

I was wondering if anybody here has a feel for what conditions are going to be like this summer in Chamonix. I'm flying out from the states for a trip from 7/11-8/15, and trying to get a sense for what to expect. Has it been a wet/dry, warm/cold, winter in the Alps etc.

I've also only been to the Alps in September before, so I'm not sure what to expect temperature wise. As a climber I'm most interested in snow and ice routes, even though I suspect this isn't the best time to visit for that, but I'm still wondering about conditions on the classics. Specifically any info related to experiences during July/August on routes such as these would be helpful,

Triangle du Tacul (any)
Tour Ronde N Face
Rochefort Arete
Whymper Couloir on the Verte
Forbes Arete
South Side Mont Blanc Routes (Tournette Spur is what I have in mind in particular)
Kuffner

Thanks in advance.

Also, looking for a partner for the tail end of this trip (8/9-8/14) if anybody is interested, PM me. I'm comfortable leading 5a, WI3/AI4, M3, and have experience mostly with AD routes, but hoping to challenge myself with more Ds on this trip.

Thanks in advance for any tips.
 LakesWinter 20 May 2016
In reply to bogpetre:

The short answer is it depends...

In 2008 and 2013 the Triangle, Forbes, Rochefort, Kuffner were fine, whereas in a hot, dry summer like last year none of them were ok in august.
 planetmarshall 20 May 2016
In reply to bogpetre:

> I was wondering if anybody here has a feel for what conditions are going to be like this summer in Chamonix.

Super hot during the day in the valley, frequent rainstorms.
 Misha 21 May 2016
In reply to bogpetre:
If you're out there for a month, you should get some decent conditions at that time of year but not every day of course. There's always a chance of a really wet summer like two years ago when you can't get much done; or else a really hot spell like last year when the glaciers and bergschrunds start to really open up, stuff doesn't refreeze overnight and some rock routes become dangerous due to rockfall but even then you can still get stuff done with careful route selection. However the average mid July to mid August season is going to (1) be very busy and (2) have variable weather from very good to very poor, but on the whole you should be able to get some good stuff done over a month unless you're really unlucky. Of the routes you mention, all may well be doable, apart from the Whymper which I think is more of an early season route these days. Also bear in mind that the weather and conditions can be much better down south in the Ecrins or out east in the Valais when it's crap in Cham.

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