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Hello Fitclubers. I've posted slightly earlier as I'm heading to the Peak. I'm sorry about the confusion last week, if I wasn't supposed to post. Very happy for Alex or Dandan to post next week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641652
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Pysche video for the week. I’d never heard of the Eastwood Traverse before, reading Si’s post but it looks really cool. Here it is for the others who have never seen it. youtube.com/watch?v=yGP-sf4x5A8&
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
AJM Hope the house move is complete and you get more time for training. Did you get the fingerboard sessions in
Biscuit I could almost write the same comment as above. Hope the house move is complete and you can find the time for climbing.
Tyler Are you moving house too or helping a friend? I know the feeling of forgetting the sequence. Can be frustrating.
Humpty Dumpty Well done for getting on a 7a. It can be a big effort starting. It sounded like you’re making progress and I’m looking forward to hearing how you got on this week.
Si dH Good going on the Eastwood Traverse. I’ve just watched a video of it, it looks like a great line and pretty long too.
Dandan82 Looks like a solid week 4x7a is a pretty good effort
Ian Bell Sounds like a good session at Llanmynech.
Hms Sounds like a great week, with a bit of showing off too. Well done.
Ally Smith Great week and congrats on the new route.
Nick Russell What a varied week, E3 onsights and sub 40 min 10k. Nice One.
Just Tintin Great that you’re able to lead. Looks like things are getting much better.
Emily Good to have you back and well done on the 10k
Heelhookofglory Did you manage to get on Too Drunk?
Alexm198 Fun weekend with lots of climbing. You must have been moving pretty fast.
Curious Yellow Hope you’ve managed to stick with the plan. I can certainly see parts of it that look similar to what I’ve done.
Mattrm It’s important to rest. Training this week?
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641652
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Pysche video for the week. I’d never heard of the Eastwood Traverse before, reading Si’s post but it looks really cool. Here it is for the others who have never seen it. youtube.com/watch?v=yGP-sf4x5A8&
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
AJM Hope the house move is complete and you get more time for training. Did you get the fingerboard sessions in
Biscuit I could almost write the same comment as above. Hope the house move is complete and you can find the time for climbing.
Tyler Are you moving house too or helping a friend? I know the feeling of forgetting the sequence. Can be frustrating.
Humpty Dumpty Well done for getting on a 7a. It can be a big effort starting. It sounded like you’re making progress and I’m looking forward to hearing how you got on this week.
Si dH Good going on the Eastwood Traverse. I’ve just watched a video of it, it looks like a great line and pretty long too.
Dandan82 Looks like a solid week 4x7a is a pretty good effort
Ian Bell Sounds like a good session at Llanmynech.
Hms Sounds like a great week, with a bit of showing off too. Well done.
Ally Smith Great week and congrats on the new route.
Nick Russell What a varied week, E3 onsights and sub 40 min 10k. Nice One.
Just Tintin Great that you’re able to lead. Looks like things are getting much better.
Emily Good to have you back and well done on the 10k
Heelhookofglory Did you manage to get on Too Drunk?
Alexm198 Fun weekend with lots of climbing. You must have been moving pretty fast.
Curious Yellow Hope you’ve managed to stick with the plan. I can certainly see parts of it that look similar to what I’ve done.
Mattrm It’s important to rest. Training this week?
1
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony. I was really tired this week and cut myself a bunch of slack on doing anything much. Feeling somewhat recharged now!
Monday - nothing
Tuesday - nothing
Wednesday - bouldering at Bloc. Don't often go there (it really shreds my skin, especially pinky fingers?) so it was interesting to see what they had. Did a bunch of blacks and some reds (5-6A) and did not rip any massive tears in my fingers (a first at Bloc!).
Thursday - nothing
Friday - nothing
Saturday- routes at UCR. Taking it easy, led only up to 6a+ (though the feel of the routes I did at this alleged grade ranged between about 5b and 6b+, if you ask me... weird grading). A few boulders after as well.
Sunday - nothing
Putting my goals back in - a lot of them were related to the Bristol 10k and now I've done that (and got my PB!) I don't have much in the way of immediate, concrete plans. Will figure some out... Also updating my weight goal; I've got closer to the range where I feel properly fit over the last couple of months but I know I'm happiest a little bit lower still and have a history of maintaining there just fine.
Short term (May-Jun)
Medium term (May, Jun, Jul)
Maybe someday
> Emily Good to have you back and well done on the 10k
Thanks Tony. I was really tired this week and cut myself a bunch of slack on doing anything much. Feeling somewhat recharged now!
Monday - nothing
Tuesday - nothing
Wednesday - bouldering at Bloc. Don't often go there (it really shreds my skin, especially pinky fingers?) so it was interesting to see what they had. Did a bunch of blacks and some reds (5-6A) and did not rip any massive tears in my fingers (a first at Bloc!).
Thursday - nothing
Friday - nothing
Saturday- routes at UCR. Taking it easy, led only up to 6a+ (though the feel of the routes I did at this alleged grade ranged between about 5b and 6b+, if you ask me... weird grading). A few boulders after as well.
Sunday - nothing
Putting my goals back in - a lot of them were related to the Bristol 10k and now I've done that (and got my PB!) I don't have much in the way of immediate, concrete plans. Will figure some out... Also updating my weight goal; I've got closer to the range where I feel properly fit over the last couple of months but I know I'm happiest a little bit lower still and have a history of maintaining there just fine.
Short term (May-Jun)
- do more exercise this week than last week!
Medium term (May, Jun, Jul)
- maintain weight in 56-58kg range
- currently at 59.7kg so still looking to drop a bit more
- figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
- have another play on Pearl Harbour
- I've definitely led all the moves on this (in three overlapping pieces maybe?), but some of them are a lot more reliable than others
- go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
- have fun on early July holiday (going somewhere in or near the south of France)
Maybe someday
- redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS???
Post edited at 17:46
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony. Occasional bit of showing of is good for the ego! Had a very productive training week but feels a bit of a blur now. It was something like this:
M - cycle commute, shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, 12 routes in pairs. Too busy to get on optimal routes. Tried a new 7a+ set by a boulderer and it shows - flipping nails.
W - cycle commute. core, fingerboard, shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute then on to UCR. 2 warm-up circuits, 10 hard circuits 1on1off, then 8min on/8min off on the 6b. Shoulder rehab.
F - TCA trying new V1-V3 set, which seem weird. I only got about half of them whereas usually I'd expect to get virtually all, but ticked 5 of the ones marked as Hard?! Shoulder rehab.
S - not a lot.
S - UCR routes, 14 in pairs inc 7a+ 7a / 7a+ 7a / 7a+ 6c. Not that the 7a+s were clean but I put a lot of effort in.
so good week. Shoulder niggles subsiding under the onslaught of so much rehab. Finger OK as long as I immobilise the knuckle with tape. 6 weeks to South Africa so trying to up the aeropower without letting the aerocap & ancap slip off the radar.
Thanks Tony. Occasional bit of showing of is good for the ego! Had a very productive training week but feels a bit of a blur now. It was something like this:
M - cycle commute, shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, 12 routes in pairs. Too busy to get on optimal routes. Tried a new 7a+ set by a boulderer and it shows - flipping nails.
W - cycle commute. core, fingerboard, shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute then on to UCR. 2 warm-up circuits, 10 hard circuits 1on1off, then 8min on/8min off on the 6b. Shoulder rehab.
F - TCA trying new V1-V3 set, which seem weird. I only got about half of them whereas usually I'd expect to get virtually all, but ticked 5 of the ones marked as Hard?! Shoulder rehab.
S - not a lot.
S - UCR routes, 14 in pairs inc 7a+ 7a / 7a+ 7a / 7a+ 6c. Not that the 7a+s were clean but I put a lot of effort in.
so good week. Shoulder niggles subsiding under the onslaught of so much rehab. Finger OK as long as I immobilise the knuckle with tape. 6 weeks to South Africa so trying to up the aeropower without letting the aerocap & ancap slip off the radar.
In reply to Emily:
I feel like the grading has got a bit more scattered UCR/TCA buy-out business. Could just be my inherent biases though. hms may have an opinion...
> the routes I did at this alleged grade ranged between about 5b and 6b+
I feel like the grading has got a bit more scattered UCR/TCA buy-out business. Could just be my inherent biases though. hms may have an opinion...
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony, I've been building up to the 10k for a while, certainly felt more of an effort then the routes! Split Rock is a great little venue though, I should have got there sooner.
M - Fingerboard, repeaters. Pretty poor, but it always is when I haven't used it for ages.
T - Nothing
W - Bouldering, Bloc. Worked my way round a fair bit of the blue circuit (6A-6C, I think) and ticked a couple of yellows (6B+-7A+?). Very wide ranges on their circuits.
T - Nothing
F - Fingerboard, same set as Monday. Marginally better.
S - Routes, UCR. Short session, only 7 routes. Got up the yellow 7a/+ by the arch second go.
S - Fingerboard, repeaters. Trying out a few different grips.
STG
Get on Sunset Buttress and/or Spacehunter Wall before the summer restrictions. I'm short on weekends but either should be manageable in a long evening
Get back on some trad! Fingers crossed for good weather at the Llanberis tradfest 10th-12th June
MTG
Sub-90 in Bristol half in September. Well, I'm actually going for sub 85, but 90 is the obvious milestone and would still be a PB!
Start working through my ticklist of E4s. Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Central Wall (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
LTG
Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
Get my act together and organise a trip to Orkney. Summer 2017?
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
> Nick Russell - What a varied week, E3 onsights and sub 40 min 10k. Nice One.
Thanks Tony, I've been building up to the 10k for a while, certainly felt more of an effort then the routes! Split Rock is a great little venue though, I should have got there sooner.
M - Fingerboard, repeaters. Pretty poor, but it always is when I haven't used it for ages.
T - Nothing
W - Bouldering, Bloc. Worked my way round a fair bit of the blue circuit (6A-6C, I think) and ticked a couple of yellows (6B+-7A+?). Very wide ranges on their circuits.
T - Nothing
F - Fingerboard, same set as Monday. Marginally better.
S - Routes, UCR. Short session, only 7 routes. Got up the yellow 7a/+ by the arch second go.
S - Fingerboard, repeaters. Trying out a few different grips.
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
In reply to TonyB:
Hi Tony!
STGs (last week):
* redpoint 7a! [DONE!]
* try to onsight 6c+ [not tried]
* yoga 3 days [DONE!]
* onsight Tales of Greek Heroes (6b+) [not tried]
* revise long-term goals..?! [DONE!]
STGs (this week):
* yoga x2
* pilates x1
* try to onsight 6c+
* onsight Tales of Greek Heroes (6b+)
* get back on clockwork orange
* have a rest day!?
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (6c+)
* some stuff unrelated to climbing(!)
M: back on the project. Very nervous on first go: tried to back off the crux, and fell off downclimbing! second go much smoother but fell on the crux for no good reason; got straight back on below the crux and linked to the end. Felt like massive progress, but v frustrating. Good yoga session in the evening.
T: 10 routes challenge! 2x5c, 2x6a, 6x6a+; about 300m of climbing.
W: project. got some new beta for the crux and sent it first go! Yoga PM
T: 6b, 6b+; dogged 6c - got off route, and jumped off - should have gone for it anyway!
F: tried a new 7a. feeling under the weather so top-roped it; got it clean second go. another project?! Yoga PM
S: 6b multipitch over the grande grotta. Fell off the crux like a proper sport climber. rope stuck on way down
S: 6a+ multipitch...to get the stuck rope back
What a feeling, finally clipping the chains on a 7a! The most exciting bit was probably sticking the crux and suddenly realising I might get the route clean - the top third (technically easy) felt desperate, and I nearly fell off pumped a couple of moves from the top!
Feeling a bit deflated now - three days left in Kaly, but might be time for a little break from climbing after that...
Hi Tony!
STGs (last week):
* redpoint 7a! [DONE!]
* try to onsight 6c+ [not tried]
* yoga 3 days [DONE!]
* onsight Tales of Greek Heroes (6b+) [not tried]
* revise long-term goals..?! [DONE!]
STGs (this week):
* yoga x2
* pilates x1
* try to onsight 6c+
* onsight Tales of Greek Heroes (6b+)
* get back on clockwork orange
* have a rest day!?
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (6c+)
* some stuff unrelated to climbing(!)
M: back on the project. Very nervous on first go: tried to back off the crux, and fell off downclimbing! second go much smoother but fell on the crux for no good reason; got straight back on below the crux and linked to the end. Felt like massive progress, but v frustrating. Good yoga session in the evening.
T: 10 routes challenge! 2x5c, 2x6a, 6x6a+; about 300m of climbing.
W: project. got some new beta for the crux and sent it first go! Yoga PM
T: 6b, 6b+; dogged 6c - got off route, and jumped off - should have gone for it anyway!
F: tried a new 7a. feeling under the weather so top-roped it; got it clean second go. another project?! Yoga PM
S: 6b multipitch over the grande grotta. Fell off the crux like a proper sport climber. rope stuck on way down
S: 6a+ multipitch...to get the stuck rope back
What a feeling, finally clipping the chains on a 7a! The most exciting bit was probably sticking the crux and suddenly realising I might get the route clean - the top third (technically easy) felt desperate, and I nearly fell off pumped a couple of moves from the top!
Feeling a bit deflated now - three days left in Kaly, but might be time for a little break from climbing after that...
Post edited at 18:42
2
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony, It got a whole lot better this week, best week of quantifiable improvement that I have had in a while!
M: Bodyweight antags; Altered my handstand push up technique after watching some youtube vids, have gone from doing 4 sets of 8 reps to 3 sets of 4 reps, proper ones are much harder! Much like press ups, it's all about keeping the elbows in to minimise potential injuries, which i'm all for.
T: Indoor routes; Had another pop at the 8a, got to last weeks clean highpoint and felt like I had barely climbed anything, it genuinely felt like someone had replaced the holds with bigger ones. Into the crux, pulled through comfortably, onto the head wall, found a cheeky brief shakeout, remembered the sequence and bam, first indoor 8a! 4 goes in total!
I was so pleased, I wasn't even completely destroyed at the top. Did a bunch of other stuff up to 7b+, but I wasn't paying all that much attention.
Whilst I was in a strong mood, I re-tried the campus board benchmark, I managed 1-5-7 and 1-4-7 (take your pick which is harder) on both arms! I should point out that this is on the largest of 3 metolius wood grips, mostly to avoid any finger injury, but i'm confident I could perform similarly on the medium rungs, I don't really want to risk it currently.
W: Fingerboard and Bodyweight antags; I decided to go back to basics with the handstands, I had been trying to kick up into them and toying with free handstand presses, but I decided to go back to walking feet up the wall and setting myself up for single handstands, it worked, I got 2 good 10 second stands.
T: Indoor routes; 4x4's that turned into 4x3's, 4x6c, 4x7a, 4x7a+! Another new high point, stamina is really coming along.
F: Rest
S: Right elbow a little achey so I took it easy, just had a little session on my moon board, the first time i've actually had a chance to use it properly! (I hate working away all week)
It was a little grimy in the shed due to the torrential rain but regardless, the grades on those problems are ridiculous! I JUST managed all the 6A's, there were complete stopper moves on some of the 6A+'s and I managed one 6B by the skin of my teeth. I didn't bother trying anything harder. I'm not sure of the point of such a disparity between these grades and real world grades, is it some kind of posturing thing from Mr Moon trying to show that all his old problems were super hard? It's not a complaint as such, it just means I have a LOT of progress to make. If I can ever do a 7A on that board I'd be dead chuffed.
Also did a whole bunch more good handstands, about 4 good 10 second stands.
S: Indoor routes; Went to Calshot to try Ben Wests routes and he didn't disappoint! Fantastic routes that were well set, and more importantly, bang on the grades. You Bristol/Sheffield/London lot are so lucky to have pro route setters all the time, Ben's routes stand out so clearly from anything else down there, it actually makes it enjoyable to climb there again. I onsighted his 7a+ which was a joy, then got on his 8a. Did it in 3 hangs and one of those was because some girl on the next route over faffed for so long I couldn't risk climbing underneath her. All moves done, just need to shorten the links, I can see another 8a tick in the near future...
Did some other easy stuff as didn't want to push elbows too hard.
Yeah so fantastic week, indoor 8a, 1-4-7, 4x7a+, brilliant. I'm going to take it steady this week as i'm just starting to feel a little worn out in places, probably do some Aerocap and stay off the hard routes.
Last weeks STG:
Climb 3 times - TICK
5x10 second free handstands - TICK 6/10
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed - NOPE
Do 4x7a+ laps - TICK
This weeks STG:
Go steady, 1x AeroCap session
10x10 second free handstands
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 3/2 - hoping to get out next weekend
Lap 7b four times -
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
> Dandan82 Looks like a solid week 4x7a is a pretty good effort
Cheers Tony, It got a whole lot better this week, best week of quantifiable improvement that I have had in a while!
M: Bodyweight antags; Altered my handstand push up technique after watching some youtube vids, have gone from doing 4 sets of 8 reps to 3 sets of 4 reps, proper ones are much harder! Much like press ups, it's all about keeping the elbows in to minimise potential injuries, which i'm all for.
T: Indoor routes; Had another pop at the 8a, got to last weeks clean highpoint and felt like I had barely climbed anything, it genuinely felt like someone had replaced the holds with bigger ones. Into the crux, pulled through comfortably, onto the head wall, found a cheeky brief shakeout, remembered the sequence and bam, first indoor 8a! 4 goes in total!
I was so pleased, I wasn't even completely destroyed at the top. Did a bunch of other stuff up to 7b+, but I wasn't paying all that much attention.
Whilst I was in a strong mood, I re-tried the campus board benchmark, I managed 1-5-7 and 1-4-7 (take your pick which is harder) on both arms! I should point out that this is on the largest of 3 metolius wood grips, mostly to avoid any finger injury, but i'm confident I could perform similarly on the medium rungs, I don't really want to risk it currently.
W: Fingerboard and Bodyweight antags; I decided to go back to basics with the handstands, I had been trying to kick up into them and toying with free handstand presses, but I decided to go back to walking feet up the wall and setting myself up for single handstands, it worked, I got 2 good 10 second stands.
T: Indoor routes; 4x4's that turned into 4x3's, 4x6c, 4x7a, 4x7a+! Another new high point, stamina is really coming along.
F: Rest
S: Right elbow a little achey so I took it easy, just had a little session on my moon board, the first time i've actually had a chance to use it properly! (I hate working away all week)
It was a little grimy in the shed due to the torrential rain but regardless, the grades on those problems are ridiculous! I JUST managed all the 6A's, there were complete stopper moves on some of the 6A+'s and I managed one 6B by the skin of my teeth. I didn't bother trying anything harder. I'm not sure of the point of such a disparity between these grades and real world grades, is it some kind of posturing thing from Mr Moon trying to show that all his old problems were super hard? It's not a complaint as such, it just means I have a LOT of progress to make. If I can ever do a 7A on that board I'd be dead chuffed.
Also did a whole bunch more good handstands, about 4 good 10 second stands.
S: Indoor routes; Went to Calshot to try Ben Wests routes and he didn't disappoint! Fantastic routes that were well set, and more importantly, bang on the grades. You Bristol/Sheffield/London lot are so lucky to have pro route setters all the time, Ben's routes stand out so clearly from anything else down there, it actually makes it enjoyable to climb there again. I onsighted his 7a+ which was a joy, then got on his 8a. Did it in 3 hangs and one of those was because some girl on the next route over faffed for so long I couldn't risk climbing underneath her. All moves done, just need to shorten the links, I can see another 8a tick in the near future...
Did some other easy stuff as didn't want to push elbows too hard.
Yeah so fantastic week, indoor 8a, 1-4-7, 4x7a+, brilliant. I'm going to take it steady this week as i'm just starting to feel a little worn out in places, probably do some Aerocap and stay off the hard routes.
Last weeks STG:
Climb 3 times - TICK
5x10 second free handstands - TICK 6/10
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed - NOPE
Do 4x7a+ laps - TICK
This weeks STG:
Go steady, 1x AeroCap session
10x10 second free handstands
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 3/2 - hoping to get out next weekend
Lap 7b four times -
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
3
In reply to Nick Russell:
I've always got an opinion, Nick! Yes I've been making heavy usage f the UCR comments book cos I think some of the grading is well out of kilter, plus some setters are not adhering to the sensible rule that the first 2 clips should be appreciative easier than the rest of the route cos people decking is bad business! I've also noticed that with Jak's departure the setting style now is considerably more bouldery. The grading almost seems to be tending towards 'if we stack several 6b boulder problems on top of each other with some easy linking bits then that's a 6b route. No it isn't! And as for that stupid yellow across the fangs - 5b bimble, 1 campus move, 5b bimble - why grade is 6b+ and what's the point of it anyway?
Mind you, see my comment this week on the latest TCA reset - the orange 5+ to 6b. What the hell went wrong there cos with even a roughly equal spread across the grade range I should be able to do more than half of that circuit!
I've always got an opinion, Nick! Yes I've been making heavy usage f the UCR comments book cos I think some of the grading is well out of kilter, plus some setters are not adhering to the sensible rule that the first 2 clips should be appreciative easier than the rest of the route cos people decking is bad business! I've also noticed that with Jak's departure the setting style now is considerably more bouldery. The grading almost seems to be tending towards 'if we stack several 6b boulder problems on top of each other with some easy linking bits then that's a 6b route. No it isn't! And as for that stupid yellow across the fangs - 5b bimble, 1 campus move, 5b bimble - why grade is 6b+ and what's the point of it anyway?
Mind you, see my comment this week on the latest TCA reset - the orange 5+ to 6b. What the hell went wrong there cos with even a roughly equal spread across the grade range I should be able to do more than half of that circuit!
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. Well, the move is very nearly complete - almost everything that we actually need is out of the house now, but theres a tip run, a charity shop run and probably some wrangling over cleaning still left to do.
Been a busy week for me.
Monday - https://www.strava.com/activities/578345421 - 50km, 624m after work
Tuesday - house packing
Wednesday - work social
Thursday - some more house admin I think
Friday - prepping for the weekend
Saturday - https://www.strava.com/activities/584740607 Day 1: The hills of South-East England - 81km, 1530m
Sunday - https://www.strava.com/activities/584740541 Day 2: The hills of South-East Wales - 68km, 1163m including my first cat2 hill, the enormous Llangynidr mountain with its 399m of vertical ascent. Nick blew a tyre, very impressively, thankfully whilst we were sitting making plans rather than on the 50km/h descent we had just been on. However, he had also nipped up another cat2, The Tumble, before breakfast whilst I had a lie-in after a fairly sleepless night.
Sunday pm - I've also just tried a 10:3 session at 62% which was closed than my previous dos - 2 sets clean, 3rd set about 2secs off on the last rep, 4th set about 3 secs off in each of the last 2 reps. Pretty close.
219.5km this week, and 3,386m ascent. A pretty solid effort even if we had planned to do a bit more. Ditto the fnigerboarding - hopefully complete at 62% soon.
Last week in the old house this week so should be able to replace house moving with training soon. Hopefully some more riding this week, then the Cheshire Cobbled Classic, first of my cycling goals, this weekend together with hopefully some climbing on the days around it oop north. Then the week after that is the Dragon Tour, after which I intend to focus a bit more on my rock climbing for a bit!
> AJM Hope the house move is complete and you get more time for training. Did you get the fingerboard sessions in
Cheers Tony. Well, the move is very nearly complete - almost everything that we actually need is out of the house now, but theres a tip run, a charity shop run and probably some wrangling over cleaning still left to do.
Been a busy week for me.
Monday - https://www.strava.com/activities/578345421 - 50km, 624m after work
Tuesday - house packing
Wednesday - work social
Thursday - some more house admin I think
Friday - prepping for the weekend
Saturday - https://www.strava.com/activities/584740607 Day 1: The hills of South-East England - 81km, 1530m
Sunday - https://www.strava.com/activities/584740541 Day 2: The hills of South-East Wales - 68km, 1163m including my first cat2 hill, the enormous Llangynidr mountain with its 399m of vertical ascent. Nick blew a tyre, very impressively, thankfully whilst we were sitting making plans rather than on the 50km/h descent we had just been on. However, he had also nipped up another cat2, The Tumble, before breakfast whilst I had a lie-in after a fairly sleepless night.
Sunday pm - I've also just tried a 10:3 session at 62% which was closed than my previous dos - 2 sets clean, 3rd set about 2secs off on the last rep, 4th set about 3 secs off in each of the last 2 reps. Pretty close.
219.5km this week, and 3,386m ascent. A pretty solid effort even if we had planned to do a bit more. Ditto the fnigerboarding - hopefully complete at 62% soon.
Last week in the old house this week so should be able to replace house moving with training soon. Hopefully some more riding this week, then the Cheshire Cobbled Classic, first of my cycling goals, this weekend together with hopefully some climbing on the days around it oop north. Then the week after that is the Dragon Tour, after which I intend to focus a bit more on my rock climbing for a bit!
Post edited at 21:48
1
In reply to TonyB:
Bit of a slow start to the week but a good end.
During the week - some bimbly bike rides on fixed gear.
Sat - decided to go out and run a half marathon! Twice the distance I have been running but a bit flatter. Did it in 1h49 which isn't too shabby since the last time I ran this distance was about 5 years ago and this is only a couple of minutes slower.
Sun - climbing at UCR with the kids. Managed to do some stuff myself. Quite pleased with 6a+ and a 6b without much difficulty.
Cuillin Ridge next week, provided the weather is kind...
Bit of a slow start to the week but a good end.
During the week - some bimbly bike rides on fixed gear.
Sat - decided to go out and run a half marathon! Twice the distance I have been running but a bit flatter. Did it in 1h49 which isn't too shabby since the last time I ran this distance was about 5 years ago and this is only a couple of minutes slower.
Sun - climbing at UCR with the kids. Managed to do some stuff myself. Quite pleased with 6a+ and a 6b without much difficulty.
Cuillin Ridge next week, provided the weather is kind...
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony. I wouldn't ever apologise for doing the stats, you are dong everyone a favour!
By the way Ethan Walker is a beast and hence his sequence in that video is not the most refined - he is clearly too strong for the problem (or got bad beta persuaded on him and didn't try anything else!) If you haven't heard of it btw, it's worth noting that access to Eastwood is banned by the landowner - I go there on my own (carrying the pads in is a pain!) and keep my head down/stay quiet. We shouldn't advertise it too much.
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
MTGs (2016):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
LTG (2017): Either lots of trad, 8a+ or more 7Cs...who knows. See how 2016 goes
M: back on Eastwood traverse. Felt really heavy and weak. Couldn't even do the crux in isolation. Partial excuse for this was that I had grazed my knee in the kneebar on Saturday, and as a result trying to keep it in while doing the crux hand movements was really painful. Decided I was going to need a kneepad.
T: back on Eastwood traverse again - tired after the day before and still no kneepad, but went out anyway as my wife was out for the evening and it was a nice day. Made a home-made thing with some toilet paper and gaffer tape that protected my knee from the pain at least. Worked a slightly different crux sequence which helped a little, and did links on the beginning and end sections to wire them in..
W: rest
T: Fingerboard session. Wanted to try something different so after warming up I focussed on one-arm locks-off training. I started on the big central jug (BM2000) for 10 seconds on each arm, then did about 4 reps of 7-10 seconds on each arm with the good pockets allowing a thumb pinch, then a rep on each arm of about 5 seconds not allowing the thumb pinch. Then tried to rig up a bodged pulley system so I could take weight off and do some reps on the lower (approx 18mm) central rail. There was too much friction so it didn't work (was too easy).
F: rest
S: Arch Enemies! Believe it or not this is the first time I have tried any sport route (inside or out) since October 2014. In that time I've also only done 3 single pitch trad routes (all in June/July 2015) - the rest has just been bouldering. So it was a bit of a leap in to the unknown. It breaks down in to slightly overhanging lower wall with big moves between reasonable holds and then a move across a roof to a big 2-hand jug on very steep ground (about 7b+ to here), where you obviously try to recover if you can, followed by a burly 4-5 move V5-ish sequence to finish. Positives: I re-learnt the sequences quickly and linked first attempt (after putting he draws in) up to the top of the lower wall, which is a move further than I managed to link on my previously play in summer 14. I also re-did the crux several times and found that after resting on the rope for a decent period I could do it all virtually static, whereas in 2014 this sequence was an on-off fight every attempt. The negative is that I'm really getting very little back at all on the jug, so I'm going to have do it when tired. Not surprising really. Overall a positive day - I've got a couple of minor sequence refinements to try on the lower wall (one might give an opportunity for a shake-out before the move across the roof, which would help a lot) and then I'll be on redpoint.
S: Short evening session on Eastwood again. This time with a kneepad! I still can't get a rest with it, but the crux moves suddenly become much easier and less painful (I can now do a move statically and get a very quick mid-move shake, where previously I had to slap through it). Immediately it was 'on'. I should have done the whole problem on my first attempt after warming up - I messed up my foot placement in the roof for the move to get my left hand on the rail near the end, and fell off as a result. Second and third goes my kneebar came out a move too early and I fell off. On my 4th go I got right through to the same move as my first go, but had to pull extra hard to keep my kneebar in as it slipped slightly, and was then too tired by the time I got to the move to the rail. I should do this problem on my next session. It's just a case of having a go where I don't make any technical mistakes, early in a session before I've got too tired. As an aside, I'm really crap at kneebars!
Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work on most days.
Injury catalogue: left index finger still the same. Same goes for my shoulder. It felt a bit stuff yesterday after Arch Enemies the day before, and was actually 'grinding' slightly when I moved it in a rotating motion in a certain way, which was worrying. Once I warmed up it was ok though. Next weekend I have a rest weekend as I'm away for the bank holiday with Ruth, so I'll take my theraband and do lots of rehab work!
Weight last Sunday night was 10 st 13lb, and seem to have kept it there this week - lightest I've ever been Next weekend's B&B breakfasts will probably set me back though...
No ticks but a really good weekend's progress made I think.
Si
Thanks Tony. I wouldn't ever apologise for doing the stats, you are dong everyone a favour!
By the way Ethan Walker is a beast and hence his sequence in that video is not the most refined - he is clearly too strong for the problem (or got bad beta persuaded on him and didn't try anything else!) If you haven't heard of it btw, it's worth noting that access to Eastwood is banned by the landowner - I go there on my own (carrying the pads in is a pain!) and keep my head down/stay quiet. We shouldn't advertise it too much.
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
MTGs (2016):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
LTG (2017): Either lots of trad, 8a+ or more 7Cs...who knows. See how 2016 goes
M: back on Eastwood traverse. Felt really heavy and weak. Couldn't even do the crux in isolation. Partial excuse for this was that I had grazed my knee in the kneebar on Saturday, and as a result trying to keep it in while doing the crux hand movements was really painful. Decided I was going to need a kneepad.
T: back on Eastwood traverse again - tired after the day before and still no kneepad, but went out anyway as my wife was out for the evening and it was a nice day. Made a home-made thing with some toilet paper and gaffer tape that protected my knee from the pain at least. Worked a slightly different crux sequence which helped a little, and did links on the beginning and end sections to wire them in..
W: rest
T: Fingerboard session. Wanted to try something different so after warming up I focussed on one-arm locks-off training. I started on the big central jug (BM2000) for 10 seconds on each arm, then did about 4 reps of 7-10 seconds on each arm with the good pockets allowing a thumb pinch, then a rep on each arm of about 5 seconds not allowing the thumb pinch. Then tried to rig up a bodged pulley system so I could take weight off and do some reps on the lower (approx 18mm) central rail. There was too much friction so it didn't work (was too easy).
F: rest
S: Arch Enemies! Believe it or not this is the first time I have tried any sport route (inside or out) since October 2014. In that time I've also only done 3 single pitch trad routes (all in June/July 2015) - the rest has just been bouldering. So it was a bit of a leap in to the unknown. It breaks down in to slightly overhanging lower wall with big moves between reasonable holds and then a move across a roof to a big 2-hand jug on very steep ground (about 7b+ to here), where you obviously try to recover if you can, followed by a burly 4-5 move V5-ish sequence to finish. Positives: I re-learnt the sequences quickly and linked first attempt (after putting he draws in) up to the top of the lower wall, which is a move further than I managed to link on my previously play in summer 14. I also re-did the crux several times and found that after resting on the rope for a decent period I could do it all virtually static, whereas in 2014 this sequence was an on-off fight every attempt. The negative is that I'm really getting very little back at all on the jug, so I'm going to have do it when tired. Not surprising really. Overall a positive day - I've got a couple of minor sequence refinements to try on the lower wall (one might give an opportunity for a shake-out before the move across the roof, which would help a lot) and then I'll be on redpoint.
S: Short evening session on Eastwood again. This time with a kneepad! I still can't get a rest with it, but the crux moves suddenly become much easier and less painful (I can now do a move statically and get a very quick mid-move shake, where previously I had to slap through it). Immediately it was 'on'. I should have done the whole problem on my first attempt after warming up - I messed up my foot placement in the roof for the move to get my left hand on the rail near the end, and fell off as a result. Second and third goes my kneebar came out a move too early and I fell off. On my 4th go I got right through to the same move as my first go, but had to pull extra hard to keep my kneebar in as it slipped slightly, and was then too tired by the time I got to the move to the rail. I should do this problem on my next session. It's just a case of having a go where I don't make any technical mistakes, early in a session before I've got too tired. As an aside, I'm really crap at kneebars!
Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work on most days.
Injury catalogue: left index finger still the same. Same goes for my shoulder. It felt a bit stuff yesterday after Arch Enemies the day before, and was actually 'grinding' slightly when I moved it in a rotating motion in a certain way, which was worrying. Once I warmed up it was ok though. Next weekend I have a rest weekend as I'm away for the bank holiday with Ruth, so I'll take my theraband and do lots of rehab work!
Weight last Sunday night was 10 st 13lb, and seem to have kept it there this week - lightest I've ever been Next weekend's B&B breakfasts will probably set me back though...
No ticks but a really good weekend's progress made I think.
Si
Post edited at 07:41
2
In reply to hms:
good to know I'm not making it up then! Hopefully it'll settle down over the summer.
good to know I'm not making it up then! Hopefully it'll settle down over the summer.
In reply to humptydumpty:
Nice One! Hopefully it's the start of many. The first of a grade is often the hardest.
> What a feeling, finally clipping the chains on a 7a! The most exciting bit was probably sticking the crux and suddenly realising I might get the route clean - the top third (technically easy) felt desperate, and I nearly fell off pumped a couple of moves from the top!
Nice One! Hopefully it's the start of many. The first of a grade is often the hardest.
1
1
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers! They do now, Ben set an 8a+/b which is now the hardest route down there, hopefully it will stay for a while before they replace it with the usual dross.
The 'new routes' board down there has the 30 or so latest new routes, there is one 6c, one 6c+ and one 7a/+, the rest are 5's and low 6's. I suppose they are catering to the needs of their main clientele but the issue is that any hard routes they do set are either rubbish, way off the grade or both.
Cheers! They do now, Ben set an 8a+/b which is now the hardest route down there, hopefully it will stay for a while before they replace it with the usual dross.
The 'new routes' board down there has the 30 or so latest new routes, there is one 6c, one 6c+ and one 7a/+, the rest are 5's and low 6's. I suppose they are catering to the needs of their main clientele but the issue is that any hard routes they do set are either rubbish, way off the grade or both.
In reply to Dandan:
STG = keep up training but also be sensible enough to skip a day if body demands.
MTG = Another 7a+ in Romania (going for 3 days around 2nd May bank holiday).
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 1x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Morning all, good work dandan on the 8a & humptydumpty on the 7a.
Not much to report this week, had a killer combo of being a bit ill and working away midweek.
Mon - 90 mins TRX esq rings
Sat - triples. Aiming for 4x3x6b+. Just about managed the first 2 sets. 2nd 2 sets managed only 6b+, 6a+, 1/2 6b+ for each. Failing a bit early, maybe still a bit under the weather
Sun - just fun climbing at the Castle with gf. 8 routes 6a+, 6b, 6c, 3x6c+, 2x7a.
Feeling better now so hopefully kicked whatever it was. Off to Romania climbing on Friday for a long weekend (back Tuesday) which should be good.
STG = keep up training but also be sensible enough to skip a day if body demands.
MTG = Another 7a+ in Romania (going for 3 days around 2nd May bank holiday).
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 1x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Morning all, good work dandan on the 8a & humptydumpty on the 7a.
Not much to report this week, had a killer combo of being a bit ill and working away midweek.
Mon - 90 mins TRX esq rings
Sat - triples. Aiming for 4x3x6b+. Just about managed the first 2 sets. 2nd 2 sets managed only 6b+, 6a+, 1/2 6b+ for each. Failing a bit early, maybe still a bit under the weather
Sun - just fun climbing at the Castle with gf. 8 routes 6a+, 6b, 6c, 3x6c+, 2x7a.
Feeling better now so hopefully kicked whatever it was. Off to Romania climbing on Friday for a long weekend (back Tuesday) which should be good.
2
In reply to Si dH:
Thanks for the beta on the walk-in. Thus far I have been too scared, but Gandalf at the Unit has given me a ticklist of problems there so I need to get over it!
Thanks for the beta on the walk-in. Thus far I have been too scared, but Gandalf at the Unit has given me a ticklist of problems there so I need to get over it!
In reply to Si dH:
>The negative is that I'm really getting very little back at all on the jug, so I'm going to have do it when tired. Not surprising really.
Are you using a jam as well?
>S: Short evening session on Eastwood again.
Must have just missed you. I left at 6pm. Twig pile is getting higher. Anyone would think they are trying to discourage climbers
>The negative is that I'm really getting very little back at all on the jug, so I'm going to have do it when tired. Not surprising really.
Are you using a jam as well?
>S: Short evening session on Eastwood again.
Must have just missed you. I left at 6pm. Twig pile is getting higher. Anyone would think they are trying to discourage climbers
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony! Been pretty tired and lethargic during the week this week so not great training. A good weekend though, and was pleased to boulder 6B+ and 7A yesterday relatively easily.
M – Coaching. Bimble boulder/campus/conditioning Brookes.
T – Physio 1 hour circuits class.
W – Fingerboard. Conditioning.
T – Bimble boulder. Fingerboard.
F – Crap session at Brookes with half a CapPow before autobelay got too busy, fingerboard and some conditioning. More conditioning in evening.
S – Climbing Unit warm up, comp route (167 points, which was a credible score before the break so shouldn’t be too annoyed, but I did lose 15 or so points this round not committing to moves because I was unwilling to fall…GRRR). Campus.
S – AM Rheinstor lower traverse 7A – repeat clean after warming up on overlapping halves and doing lots of gardening. Compared to when I first did it in November, my sequence was rubbish but the finger strength and general core/strength/stamina was up so I could afford to do it slowly with bad sequence. So my training has done something! Skin wasn’t wrecked either so after lunch I went to play at Churnet as a recce. Warmed up then did Niche Traverse 6B+. It’s probably less than that for me as I stacked two fingers in the mono…
So now basically my bouldering for a while is projecting Peak Dristrict traverses that don’t get too high or require a flexible or strong right ankle (def no right heel or toe hooks!)
Si – looking at you for suggestions here!
Thanks Tony! Been pretty tired and lethargic during the week this week so not great training. A good weekend though, and was pleased to boulder 6B+ and 7A yesterday relatively easily.
M – Coaching. Bimble boulder/campus/conditioning Brookes.
T – Physio 1 hour circuits class.
W – Fingerboard. Conditioning.
T – Bimble boulder. Fingerboard.
F – Crap session at Brookes with half a CapPow before autobelay got too busy, fingerboard and some conditioning. More conditioning in evening.
S – Climbing Unit warm up, comp route (167 points, which was a credible score before the break so shouldn’t be too annoyed, but I did lose 15 or so points this round not committing to moves because I was unwilling to fall…GRRR). Campus.
S – AM Rheinstor lower traverse 7A – repeat clean after warming up on overlapping halves and doing lots of gardening. Compared to when I first did it in November, my sequence was rubbish but the finger strength and general core/strength/stamina was up so I could afford to do it slowly with bad sequence. So my training has done something! Skin wasn’t wrecked either so after lunch I went to play at Churnet as a recce. Warmed up then did Niche Traverse 6B+. It’s probably less than that for me as I stacked two fingers in the mono…
So now basically my bouldering for a while is projecting Peak Dristrict traverses that don’t get too high or require a flexible or strong right ankle (def no right heel or toe hooks!)
Si – looking at you for suggestions here!
In reply to Dandan:
that sounds so familiar. Ben sets lovely routes, as did Jak. They have flow & naturalness. Sadly Ben may live in Bristol but he doesn't do much setting here - UCR are hell-bent on using the TCA setters rather than forking out for a top of his class professional so the beauty is now sadly lacking.
that sounds so familiar. Ben sets lovely routes, as did Jak. They have flow & naturalness. Sadly Ben may live in Bristol but he doesn't do much setting here - UCR are hell-bent on using the TCA setters rather than forking out for a top of his class professional so the beauty is now sadly lacking.
In reply to TonyB:
A steady week getting ready for race on Sunday. Still 2 climbing sessions and 3 rides. Yes I got on Too Drunk. Feels really hard but doable which is exactly what I wanted. Tweaked finger though, skipped warm up due to impending rain -- oops.
Mon: Rest
Tue: Bouldering at the Churnet / 50 mins bike on turbo.
Wed: Rest
Thu: Rest
Fri: Bouldering at the Roaches. Got on Too Drunk, feels hard but I reckon I can do it with a bit of time. Tweaked pulley in left hand ring finger.
Sat: 14 mile preparation ride opening up the legs for tomorrow's race.
Sun: Summer Classic MTB XC race. Came 1st! I've never been on a podium before so I'm really happy with this! More importantly my planning and preparation was really good for this and my main goal was to complete the race in good style and stick to my plan, which is what I did. The win is the cherry!
Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 3x 2/3
Get on Too Drunk TICK!
Weight: maintain around 144 lbs TICK!
STGs (End June 2016):
Complete the Summer Classic May 22nd TICK! and I won!
Tick remaining indoor red circuit (V3/4) 4/20
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (green V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
A steady week getting ready for race on Sunday. Still 2 climbing sessions and 3 rides. Yes I got on Too Drunk. Feels really hard but doable which is exactly what I wanted. Tweaked finger though, skipped warm up due to impending rain -- oops.
Mon: Rest
Tue: Bouldering at the Churnet / 50 mins bike on turbo.
Wed: Rest
Thu: Rest
Fri: Bouldering at the Roaches. Got on Too Drunk, feels hard but I reckon I can do it with a bit of time. Tweaked pulley in left hand ring finger.
Sat: 14 mile preparation ride opening up the legs for tomorrow's race.
Sun: Summer Classic MTB XC race. Came 1st! I've never been on a podium before so I'm really happy with this! More importantly my planning and preparation was really good for this and my main goal was to complete the race in good style and stick to my plan, which is what I did. The win is the cherry!
Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 3x 2/3
Get on Too Drunk TICK!
Weight: maintain around 144 lbs TICK!
STGs (End June 2016):
Complete the Summer Classic May 22nd TICK! and I won!
Tick remaining indoor red circuit (V3/4) 4/20
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (green V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
2
In reply to shark:
Hadn't tried a jam - do you mean a hand jam, or a finger lock down the right hand side? If it's hand-jammable then I shoud definitely try that...
Agree about the twig pile.
Hadn't tried a jam - do you mean a hand jam, or a finger lock down the right hand side? If it's hand-jammable then I shoud definitely try that...
Agree about the twig pile.
In reply to Just Tintin:
I will see what Ican think of and post later
> Si – looking at you for suggestions here!
I will see what Ican think of and post later
1
In reply to Si dH:
Hand jam
> Hadn't tried a jam - do you mean a hand jam, or a finger lock down the right hand side? If it's hand-jammable then I shoud definitely try that...
Hand jam
In reply to Just Tintin:
If you like the Churnet, I would recommend Virgin Wall Traverse. The middle bit is 6B, the start and end bits separately each about 7A, and they all meet your criteria. If you get on well with it and have the stamina, the whole link gets 7B. Not too steep, all small pockets and pebbles on the hard bits.
Ousal low and high might suit but I haven't done them.
You could also try doing the start and end sections of Wright's, which are probably v3-4 in their own right and meet your criteria.
There is a pumpy, slopey low thing on sitting block but it needs heels.
And you could try Sideways Smash, my own problem! Slopey and heely but all on the left foot, 6C+
On lime, Jerry's traverse at Blackwell dale is really good, some people use a right heel at the start but it's not necessary. 7A+ but all on friendly crimps and easy to work with low feet so could be a good project. Can't think of any other candidates that don't need heels or are harder.
On grit, Green Traverse is a classic tick if you can do the crux (using the original method w/o right heel.) Steep traverse (plantation) is good and easier than most of these, but the landing calls for a spotter. Gorilla Warfare at Curbar is great as long as you are comfortable with the landing near the end (there is a slightly awkward block.)
Should get you started!
> So now basically my bouldering for a while is projecting Peak Dristrict traverses that don£t get too high or require a flexible or strong right ankle (def no right heel or toe hooks!)
> Si £ looking at you for suggestions here!
If you like the Churnet, I would recommend Virgin Wall Traverse. The middle bit is 6B, the start and end bits separately each about 7A, and they all meet your criteria. If you get on well with it and have the stamina, the whole link gets 7B. Not too steep, all small pockets and pebbles on the hard bits.
Ousal low and high might suit but I haven't done them.
You could also try doing the start and end sections of Wright's, which are probably v3-4 in their own right and meet your criteria.
There is a pumpy, slopey low thing on sitting block but it needs heels.
And you could try Sideways Smash, my own problem! Slopey and heely but all on the left foot, 6C+
On lime, Jerry's traverse at Blackwell dale is really good, some people use a right heel at the start but it's not necessary. 7A+ but all on friendly crimps and easy to work with low feet so could be a good project. Can't think of any other candidates that don't need heels or are harder.
On grit, Green Traverse is a classic tick if you can do the crux (using the original method w/o right heel.) Steep traverse (plantation) is good and easier than most of these, but the landing calls for a spotter. Gorilla Warfare at Curbar is great as long as you are comfortable with the landing near the end (there is a slightly awkward block.)
Should get you started!
Post edited at 19:15
In reply to TonyB:
Mon rest
Tue short circuits/long rest + continuity - some progress here in that I'm getting through the 11th move more often, but actually completed the 12 move circuits less frequently.
Wed short circuit/short rests + continuity - I changed this to a different part of the 7b+ circuit and had a much more satisfactory session. The second half has doesn't have the move that I find really unreliable and is probably more sustained.
Thur fingerboard - I sacked off this session about halfway as something funny happened to my little finger. I don't think it's bad, but I had a strange sensation in my forearm that took several days to go away
Fri Core
Sat rest
Sun Aberration. My goals previously were; link ground to 4th clip (done twice and once ground to past the 5th bolt), establish a better sequence for the 5th-6th bolts (I couldn't find a better sequence for this but found I could repeat my previous one - I did think of a sightly different way and should try this), link 3rd-6th (not done, I think 4th-6th is a more logical link) and to try the crux (climbed to the top bolt to bolt) I think the 5th-6th bolt is the hardest move, but the 6th to just beyond the 7th is tough and there is no rest before. Briefly the route breaks down into ground to 4th clip (wired) 4th-6th clip (hard climbing but I know the moves and think linking this from the ground would be feasible) 6th-8th clip (easy to fall off but I linked this section), 8th-top relatively easy climbing (I need to get this wired as it was wet and felt uncomfortable). Basically, I was really pleased with this session. I like the route and it feels like it's going to be doable. Let's see.
Goals for this week
I'm having a rest week, so reduced intensity and no climbing goals
Get back on Aberration at the weekend. I want to make some new links and refine the sequence on the middle part, 4th-7th would be awesome.
Mon rest
Tue short circuits/long rest + continuity - some progress here in that I'm getting through the 11th move more often, but actually completed the 12 move circuits less frequently.
Wed short circuit/short rests + continuity - I changed this to a different part of the 7b+ circuit and had a much more satisfactory session. The second half has doesn't have the move that I find really unreliable and is probably more sustained.
Thur fingerboard - I sacked off this session about halfway as something funny happened to my little finger. I don't think it's bad, but I had a strange sensation in my forearm that took several days to go away
Fri Core
Sat rest
Sun Aberration. My goals previously were; link ground to 4th clip (done twice and once ground to past the 5th bolt), establish a better sequence for the 5th-6th bolts (I couldn't find a better sequence for this but found I could repeat my previous one - I did think of a sightly different way and should try this), link 3rd-6th (not done, I think 4th-6th is a more logical link) and to try the crux (climbed to the top bolt to bolt) I think the 5th-6th bolt is the hardest move, but the 6th to just beyond the 7th is tough and there is no rest before. Briefly the route breaks down into ground to 4th clip (wired) 4th-6th clip (hard climbing but I know the moves and think linking this from the ground would be feasible) 6th-8th clip (easy to fall off but I linked this section), 8th-top relatively easy climbing (I need to get this wired as it was wet and felt uncomfortable). Basically, I was really pleased with this session. I like the route and it feels like it's going to be doable. Let's see.
Goals for this week
I'm having a rest week, so reduced intensity and no climbing goals
Get back on Aberration at the weekend. I want to make some new links and refine the sequence on the middle part, 4th-7th would be awesome.
1
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. I did FC for over 2 yrs many moons ago and there is no need to aplogise - it's a volunteer role after all and much appreciated.
Not a bad week as everything is really feeling on top atm.
Boulder session on Monday - was supposed to be boulder warm up into a foot off campus AnCap sesh. However I was feeling good and really enjoying the bouldering so ploughed on. Did all the warm ups (6), V1-2 circuit (12), V3-4 circuit (12) V5's (8 of 12) some didn't feel do able without beta, flashed 2 V6's got 2 more. Good session.
Wednesday was test day with Coach Kettle.
1) Press ups to failure - think it was mid 20's, cant quite remember
2) Pull ups to failure (balancing book on bent knees so no cheating) - either 12 or 14, probably 12
3) Dish to failure - 1m30ish - 1m37s rings a bell - really should have written these down.
4) 1 arm max hangs - equal both arms. Held 5 secs on bottom middle slot on BM2000. Minus 6.25kg of body weight.
5) Weighted campus rung 2 handed hang to failure with + 6.25kg - about 1m30s
6) 2 hand campus rung 10 secs on 3 secs off + 6.25kg - about 1m30s
7) 2 hand campus rung 7 secs on 3 secs off - about 1m30s
Coach smashed me on everything apart from the core, so i'm taking that as a victory. At my 68kg with +6.25kg he was weighted hanging with 15kg at 55kg body weight and still crushed my scores. Inspirational.
Still awaiting feedback but it would appear i'm fairly evenly balanced - whether i'm evenly weak and unfit remains to be seen. Surprised how well I did with the one arm hangs.
Had a good day coaching on Sunday. 6 hrs of bouldering basically amongst other stuff. The squad were making problems and we were all trying them. Some strong kids and all trying to out do each other led to a hard workout.
2 hr rope session afterwards. Fell off a 7a was the highlight, I was knackered.
Forgot to add got my scales back and now below 150lbs consistently and 15-16% bf which in real world is about 11%. Just another couple to lose and i'll be the lightest I've been for about 3 yrs.
Cheers Tony. I did FC for over 2 yrs many moons ago and there is no need to aplogise - it's a volunteer role after all and much appreciated.
Not a bad week as everything is really feeling on top atm.
Boulder session on Monday - was supposed to be boulder warm up into a foot off campus AnCap sesh. However I was feeling good and really enjoying the bouldering so ploughed on. Did all the warm ups (6), V1-2 circuit (12), V3-4 circuit (12) V5's (8 of 12) some didn't feel do able without beta, flashed 2 V6's got 2 more. Good session.
Wednesday was test day with Coach Kettle.
1) Press ups to failure - think it was mid 20's, cant quite remember
2) Pull ups to failure (balancing book on bent knees so no cheating) - either 12 or 14, probably 12
3) Dish to failure - 1m30ish - 1m37s rings a bell - really should have written these down.
4) 1 arm max hangs - equal both arms. Held 5 secs on bottom middle slot on BM2000. Minus 6.25kg of body weight.
5) Weighted campus rung 2 handed hang to failure with + 6.25kg - about 1m30s
6) 2 hand campus rung 10 secs on 3 secs off + 6.25kg - about 1m30s
7) 2 hand campus rung 7 secs on 3 secs off - about 1m30s
Coach smashed me on everything apart from the core, so i'm taking that as a victory. At my 68kg with +6.25kg he was weighted hanging with 15kg at 55kg body weight and still crushed my scores. Inspirational.
Still awaiting feedback but it would appear i'm fairly evenly balanced - whether i'm evenly weak and unfit remains to be seen. Surprised how well I did with the one arm hangs.
Had a good day coaching on Sunday. 6 hrs of bouldering basically amongst other stuff. The squad were making problems and we were all trying them. Some strong kids and all trying to out do each other led to a hard workout.
2 hr rope session afterwards. Fell off a 7a was the highlight, I was knackered.
Forgot to add got my scales back and now below 150lbs consistently and 15-16% bf which in real world is about 11%. Just another couple to lose and i'll be the lightest I've been for about 3 yrs.
Post edited at 20:11
1
In reply to Si dH:
Yes please
> On grit, Green Traverse is a classic tick if you can do the crux (using the original method w/o right heel.)
Yes please
1
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for putting up the post.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
3 core session (or tip runs) - no (1)
1 climb - no
1 run/bike/longish walk - no
Weight - 12st 11lbs
M - F - Holiday!
S - Core
S - DIY
Nice week off. Spent a lot of time in NT properties. Very cultured. Then went to see Avenue Q. Hoping to get out to Navigation next week, looking forward to that. Also going to start running again. The improved diet has made a good start so far.
Next week:
2 core
1 run
2 climb
Thanks for putting up the post.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
3 core session (or tip runs) - no (1)
1 climb - no
1 run/bike/longish walk - no
Weight - 12st 11lbs
M - F - Holiday!
S - Core
S - DIY
Nice week off. Spent a lot of time in NT properties. Very cultured. Then went to see Avenue Q. Hoping to get out to Navigation next week, looking forward to that. Also going to start running again. The improved diet has made a good start so far.
Next week:
2 core
1 run
2 climb
Post edited at 20:56
In reply to Ian Bell:
Hey Ian, I see you went to Llanymynech last week. I'll be in the area this weekend and was wondering about the status of the nesting restrictions. The RAD suggests checking signs at the site but it would be nice to know in advance!
Hey Ian, I see you went to Llanymynech last week. I'll be in the area this weekend and was wondering about the status of the nesting restrictions. The RAD suggests checking signs at the site but it would be nice to know in advance!
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony - i'm very chuffed with the Malham FA - this week has been both stressful and restful...
Week 21:
M - Very achey obliques after hanging in a sport climbing harness whilst equipping a new route at Kilnsey. Quick 30km on the bike after work. Some Strava PBs after I got carried away and chased after the TT competitor who overtook me!
T - Evening Tor hit finishing after dark. Repeated Sympathy in Choice (Stand Start) (f7B+) and had a couple of good RP goes at linking it into Chimes short (8a). Lamplight play on Weedkiller Traverse (f7A+) and discovered some breakthrough beta that makes me think Weedkiller/Chimes Link (8b) could be a goer this year.
W - Knackered from last night and stressing about getting enough work done before going away. Fitted in a quick aero-cap fingerboard session before last minute packing; 15x 6x 7:3 @60% 1on/1off. Kettle bell shoulder press 10x10 each side. Felt hard and a bit pukey afterwards.
T - Rest/Travel to Rome
F - City break - lots of walking, pasta, gelato and wine
S - more of the same
S - Gluttony: Started with a bucks fizz breakfast, had a 3 course lunch and ended the day with airport beers before a late night return to Manchester
> Ally Smith - Great week and congrats on the new route.
Cheers Tony - i'm very chuffed with the Malham FA - this week has been both stressful and restful...
Week 21:
M - Very achey obliques after hanging in a sport climbing harness whilst equipping a new route at Kilnsey. Quick 30km on the bike after work. Some Strava PBs after I got carried away and chased after the TT competitor who overtook me!
T - Evening Tor hit finishing after dark. Repeated Sympathy in Choice (Stand Start) (f7B+) and had a couple of good RP goes at linking it into Chimes short (8a). Lamplight play on Weedkiller Traverse (f7A+) and discovered some breakthrough beta that makes me think Weedkiller/Chimes Link (8b) could be a goer this year.
W - Knackered from last night and stressing about getting enough work done before going away. Fitted in a quick aero-cap fingerboard session before last minute packing; 15x 6x 7:3 @60% 1on/1off. Kettle bell shoulder press 10x10 each side. Felt hard and a bit pukey afterwards.
T - Rest/Travel to Rome
F - City break - lots of walking, pasta, gelato and wine
S - more of the same
S - Gluttony: Started with a bucks fizz breakfast, had a 3 course lunch and ended the day with airport beers before a late night return to Manchester
In reply to biscuit:
Good to see you've had a really good week after what seemed like a few bad ones
Are you still doing your low carb diet?
Good to see you've had a really good week after what seemed like a few bad ones
Are you still doing your low carb diet?
In reply to shark:
Just seen your latest video on ukb by the way... can't believe you fell off there, gutted for you...but at least you have a reason to go back
(I was there around 630-9)
Just seen your latest video on ukb by the way... can't believe you fell off there, gutted for you...but at least you have a reason to go back
(I was there around 630-9)
Post edited at 07:09
In reply to Si dH:
Thanks so much Si - really appreciate the thought you've put into it and the range of venues. Pebbles, small pockets and crimps all sound very exciting but also keen to try your problem as that will not play to my strengths!
Jerry's sounds like perfect next project territory - not a long drive and can take myself off there to work it on days when my climbing partner would prefer a cycle.
Thanks again!
Thanks so much Si - really appreciate the thought you've put into it and the range of venues. Pebbles, small pockets and crimps all sound very exciting but also keen to try your problem as that will not play to my strengths!
Jerry's sounds like perfect next project territory - not a long drive and can take myself off there to work it on days when my climbing partner would prefer a cycle.
Thanks again!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Hi Nick
It was my first visit so we stuck to Grid Iron wall and Foreigner wall, neither of which seemed to have any issues re birds or signs. Had a look for future reference at Red Wall & Black wall which I think are banned till July? Red wall in particular did seem to have some nesting on it. Afraid I didn't check the other walls.
Hi Nick
It was my first visit so we stuck to Grid Iron wall and Foreigner wall, neither of which seemed to have any issues re birds or signs. Had a look for future reference at Red Wall & Black wall which I think are banned till July? Red wall in particular did seem to have some nesting on it. Afraid I didn't check the other walls.
In reply to TonyB:
Could have sworn I posted last week! Anyway, here's two weeks to get me up to date:
m - travelling back from Venice
t - 10k cycling (global bike to work day)
w - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling, 5k run ~25mins
f - 10k cycling
s - Over the Odda, 10k offroad race ~58 mins - happy to the under an hour
s - Leg #4 of Calderdale Way Relay ~15k, 1hr 48min - much slower than last year
m - 18.5km cycling, 2 hrs in the gym drills plyometrics, intervals and core
t - 10km cycling
w - 10km cycling
t - 5k running to work with rucksack 28min
f - 10k cycling
s - shopping in Keswick, a workout for my wallet, if not for me!
s - rest
Weight 81.7kg, body fat 19.7%
Think I've put the shin splints to rest now.
Could have sworn I posted last week! Anyway, here's two weeks to get me up to date:
m - travelling back from Venice
t - 10k cycling (global bike to work day)
w - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling, 5k run ~25mins
f - 10k cycling
s - Over the Odda, 10k offroad race ~58 mins - happy to the under an hour
s - Leg #4 of Calderdale Way Relay ~15k, 1hr 48min - much slower than last year
m - 18.5km cycling, 2 hrs in the gym drills plyometrics, intervals and core
t - 10km cycling
w - 10km cycling
t - 5k running to work with rucksack 28min
f - 10k cycling
s - shopping in Keswick, a workout for my wallet, if not for me!
s - rest
Weight 81.7kg, body fat 19.7%
Think I've put the shin splints to rest now.
1
In reply to Si dH:
Yes I am, but not super strict. As its low carb and not keto if I need to grab something on the go it's not the end of the world. It feels very easy to manage.
Yes I am, but not super strict. As its low carb and not keto if I need to grab something on the go it's not the end of the world. It feels very easy to manage.
In reply to biscuit:
I only meant that it was surprising the first the three FitClub posts were all about moving house.
You're coached session sounds interesting. Out of curiosity, did you get much rest between tests. It seems strange that you scored the same for your weighted campus rungs regardless if you hung constantly or had 10 secs on 3 secs off.
I only meant that it was surprising the first the three FitClub posts were all about moving house.
You're coached session sounds interesting. Out of curiosity, did you get much rest between tests. It seems strange that you scored the same for your weighted campus rungs regardless if you hung constantly or had 10 secs on 3 secs off.
In reply to Si dH:
I don't know whether I got over-excited or have lost my killer instinct or got a case of the yips. I am mainly going there as a way of PE/AeroPower training so it shouldn't matter - but clearly it does. Even when I do it my intention is to then head back on the original. This way should be better training (ie back and there rather than there and back) as the rest on the slopey ledge will terrible and require a hard first move back.
I cant believe you missed the hand jam. It is staring you in the face.
> Just seen your latest video on ukb by the way... can't believe you fell off there, gutted for you...but at least you have a reason to go back
> (I was there around 630-9)
I don't know whether I got over-excited or have lost my killer instinct or got a case of the yips. I am mainly going there as a way of PE/AeroPower training so it shouldn't matter - but clearly it does. Even when I do it my intention is to then head back on the original. This way should be better training (ie back and there rather than there and back) as the rest on the slopey ledge will terrible and require a hard first move back.
I cant believe you missed the hand jam. It is staring you in the face.
In reply to TonyB:
Ten mins rest between.
I thought I'd remember the times so didn't note them. A day later they fell out of my head. I may well have hung on longer than I've written. Re visiting the tests in late July/early August to see if I'm better or worse.
Ten mins rest between.
I thought I'd remember the times so didn't note them. A day later they fell out of my head. I may well have hung on longer than I've written. Re visiting the tests in late July/early August to see if I'm better or worse.
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