UKC

We're very new to trad, and taking our first steps on the easy stuff. A visit to the Peak district is on the cards (it'd be wrong not to). We'd rather not feel rushed off the easier routes by other climbers wanting to follow, so can anyone point us towards a quieter area of low grade Peak climbing?
Cheers all!

In reply to two_tapirs:

I'd suggest that you head for the obvious places (Stanage, Burbage North, Birchen, etc) and avoid feeling rushed by picking one-star routes rather than three-star classics. In good weather they will be busy, but you should be fine.

In reply to two_tapirs:

I'd go for the normal crags (stanage, roaches etc), as the psychological benefit of seeing someone else lead a pitch and seeing roughly the kind of gear that is used and where is helpful for the nerves when starting out.

You also get a bit of the "if they can do it I can!", although be careful about who you do that too as it can escalate rapidly and you'll be soloing masters edge before you realise it.

Good luck!

In reply to Coel Hellier:
Agree with this. Although to be honest, provided you're leading stuff and not obviously and totally out of your depth (which, as a beginner, you should definitely be avoiding anyway) then most climbers will be fairly tolerant of a newbie having a bit of a wobble on something even if it's a three star classic. Some people will hang around and wait or shout up advice (helpful or otherwise), some people will just go and do something else. The nice thing about the "obvious" grit venues is that there's normally something else to do if the route you had in mind is occupied...

In reply to two_tapirs:

As a new trad leader don't underestimate the psychological effect of being the only climbers at a venue. You suddenly realise you're really on your own!

In reply to two_tapirs:

Some good places: Wharncliffe,, Gardoms, Roaches Skyline, Back Forest. Derwent Edges, Bamford (the crowds are in different areas), Carl Wark, Curbar left (nr Froggatt), Stanage anywhere away from the Popular End, Plantation, High Neb, Crow Chin and End Slab (and no star routes anywhere on Stanage are usually OK or good and very quiet). Any classic lower grade crag in the Moorland guide, ditto for any Yorks crag apart from Ilkely Quarry and Almscliffe Low Man, ditto any Lancs crag.

In reply to two_tapirs:

Can you choose quieter times rather than quieter parts? Weekdays at Stanage are very different compared to a fine weather weekend. You can be within hailing distance of others in case of need, without impinging on your/their personal space. The majority of folk are not irritated by other/new/slow climbers; those who are deserve their own irked frustration! Just be polite, explain/chat & get on with your climbing; they can wait patiently or move along/come back later

In reply to two_tapirs:

Wharncliffe is always very quiet. The routes are good one there. If you climb in the week theres space everywhere.

In reply to two_tapirs:

I'd say unless it is heaving I'd go to a popular venue. We've had 3 days at Stanage popular end this year teaching my son to lead. The climbers around us provided great company but were also on hand to provide useful support. For example some one offered to pop up the descent to check my sons first ever belay. In the end I declined but it was great to have the offer. As people found out he was learning to lead he got lots of positive praise

So chat to the people around you. Ask if you need advice e.g. How well protected this? Where does it go? Where is the descent? How do I do this move? Does my belay look OK?

I'm not suggesting that you can call in at Outside and buy all the gear and arrive clueless expexting a free lesson. But people will understand from when they were learning that even if you know it all re assurance can be nice in the early days

Even at any easy to navigate crag like Stanage finding routes and descents can add alot to the overall burden of learning to lead

At the same time of course you will be being patient with thers. Leave space at the base of the route the next party. Laughing at their jokes and generally join in

In reply to two_tapirs:

Windgather; it won't be quiet (it rarely is!) but it will give you everything you're after from a venue. Low grade climbs galore, virtually no hard routes (so you're never going to feel self conscious in the presence of super talented human spiders) and a fantastic friendly atmosphere. It's the perfect beginners crag.

In reply to Otis:

I agree with Windgather. My only reservation is that it may be really difficult to make a sound belay at the top. Not always, but on some routes. But you could check that out before starting a route. On the plus side most of the routes have masses of obvious gear placements.

In reply to two_tapirs:
Cratcliff tor it's a great crag!

In reply to DWS gibraltar:

Yes it is, but what will they do when they get there. Looking at the listed routes done stick with the earlier suggestions.

In reply to two_tapirs:

Yeah Wharncliffe

In reply to the power:

The trouble with Cratcliffe is that there's very little easy there, not really a good place to go unless you lead at least HVS.

The trouble with Wharncliffe is that a lot of the landings are very bad, and so is less good for beginners faffing with their first gear placement.

In reply to two_tapirs:
Wharnecliffe is fine (it's my local crag) but probably should come with two warnings:

One. Its not very pretty, at least not at it's more popular northern end where you have a view of some factories and lots of nearby humming pylons. The rocks are quite short and black. It's not really the same as the moorland views of the Peak.

Two. There are lots of pointy blocks all over the place which make moving around below the crag quite a pain and can make the ground seem very threatening especially when you consider that the routes are so short.

That said, stuff like Black Slab Centre (VD), Black Slab Right (M) and Y.M.C.A. Crack (VD) are good beginner leads (last one may need biggish hexes/ cams). Holly Crack (VD) would be great but it's such a pain to find that no beginner will ever actually lead it.

The crag gets much prettier the further south you go but also becomes more fragmented, hidden and sandbaggy.

In reply to two_tapirs:

Harborough Rocks; the limestone Windgather, is worth a look. Lots of short, easy and well protected routes.

In reply to Le Chevalier Mal Fet:
Second this. It's one of those WYSIWYG places. If a route looks easy, it is; if it looks hard, it is- all on bomber limestone.

In reply to Ann S:

Third this (tight rope, please!)

Mick

In reply to Coel Hellier:
There are not so many bad landings for the best lower grade routes (which are usually very well protected). J Hiley is spot on with the problems but the rock base means the feet stay dry and the outlook helps keep it quiet.

On some of the others...Windgather is way too busy for what the OP requested (but belays are OK apart from a very small number of routes) and Harborough isn't as good for beginner leads as it's sometimes made out (very short, a bit worn, and quite cruxy between ledges so if you slip you hit something).

In reply to two_tapirs:

Agden Rocher - well, it'll definitely be quiet!!

(gets coat and tin hat, runs away)

To the OP - this is a joke, don't even think about it

JW

Thanks everyone for some really useful suggestions and comments; we are probably heading to The Peak this bank holiday weekend, so there will be more people than usual, we'll take our chances. If it's too busy then we'll take time to watch others (without looking stalkerish)

cheers!

In reply to two_tapirs:

If you do end up 'stalking' don't be afraid to try asking an occasional question. Personally, if someone were to ask me a sensible and polite beginners question about something I'm up to I'd be more than happy to take a minute or two out of my day to help out a fellow climber.

Enquire politely, let them know you're a beginner and Ask when the climber/belayer is not 'busy' (if you want to ask them about a belay they've built, do it once their second has topped out-not whilst they're belaying!).

At best, you'll pick up some useful advice from friendly, like minded climbers. At worst, one or two might not be keen to chat, but at least you asked. If they get arsey with you then feel sorry for them and move on

In reply to two_tapirs:

Spent 3 days at Stanage Plantation enjoying the Bank Holiday sun, and it wasn't as busy as we expected. Granted, we spent time at Away from it all, so one of the less popular crags, but looking along Stanage there wasn't the groups we expected. Great for us as it gave us plenty of time to learn the ropes (literally)

In reply to two_tapirs: Easter & May bank hols - everyone goes away so Stanage is usually quite quiet.