UKC

Sport climbing in Norway

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 ewanjp 23 May 2016
Hi all - toying with the idea of a four day break to norway to do some bolt cliping. Looking at the Setesdal area - is there much sport climbing around there?

Ideally we'd be looking for:
- Easy (up to french 6a / 6a+)
- Bolted
- multi pitch
- lots of climbs relatively close together (tho we'll have a climb)

Would appreciate peoples insight!
 HeMa 23 May 2016
In reply to ewanjp:

Much of the climbing in Setesdal (and Nissedal) are bolted... but perhaps not like you'd like 'em.

Lots of climbing though and not far apart.
 wbo 23 May 2016
In reply to ewanjp:
Where you would fly to. There is a load of single pitch around Stavanger, then an easy drive over to Setesdal.
OP ewanjp 24 May 2016
In reply to ewanjp:

Thanks - we'd fly to Oslo I think. Is there another airport that is better?
 Nordie_matt 24 May 2016
In reply to ewanjp:

If you fly into Kristiansand there's a stack of stuff in and around the area, both immediately and heading east and west. Some good climbing on amenable grades. About 1.5 hours north of Kristiansand is Slettafjell, 500m of climbing, with a top 50 bolted multi pitch, Trygg og glad (safe and happy) that has the crux pitch at 6a.

Well bolted, but the (bolted) route terminates 4 pitches beneath the top out, "Trygg og glad helt hjem" goes all the way to the top, at about hvs. 50m double ropes are needed to ab off.

There's some free topos for the area on the christiansand klatreklubb website

http://www.ckk.no/foerer.aspx

Hth, Matt

OP ewanjp 24 May 2016
In reply to Nordie_matt:

Thanks Matt - looks like it'll have to be Oslo tho, as i'm in the UK and no-one seems to fly to kristiansand.
 wbo 24 May 2016
In reply to ewanjp: As said, fly to Stavanger. 3 hour drive to Setesdal, and you could stop en route to climb. What's the grade mix of the all the group - all climbing 6a?

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 24 May 2016
In reply to ewanjp:

The Drammen area, just south-west of Oslo has lots of great sport climbing and its own guidebook. Nice part of the world and excellent rock and routes,


Chris
 Mr. Lee 27 May 2016
In reply to ewanjp:

I've done three days climbing in Setesdal. Longs routes, although the routes generally aren't that strong on features so you might find them a little samey. Still definitely worth a visit but if you start to crave something steeper then there's lot of good climbing between Setesdal and Oslo. Drammen as mentioned above is nearly all single pitch but there's some really good climbing to be had on strong lines and features. Telemark also has a lot of good single pitch climbing around Bø that you could also use to break the journey.

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