UKC

After a bit of advice/beta.

We'd be arriving in mid or late June. Too early (snow in cracks/descent etc.)?

Graded UIAA VI- but with quite a bit of V+; can the hardest moves be french freed in interests of expediency?

Much fixed gear (more quick draws)?

Any key route-finding points?

Thanks

In reply to JJL:

I've done it - memory is a bit hazy as it was a few years ago.

Not sure if June is too early, I did it in mid-August. The descent was a couple of abs off the back and a walk around and down past the Vajolet towers. I guess this could be snowy early in the season?

We weren't allowed to drive up the valley from the main road - you have to get a shuttle bus up to the hut. If doing it in a day without staying in the hut, you have to motor a bit I think to make the last bus back.

Tech crux pitch is low down and friggable on pegs, but there is a lot of climbing at a slightly easier level which isn't pegged to buggery. Took a reasonable rack, maybe 4 cams, a set and a half of wires and plenty of long draws, possibly a couple of hexs. It's got quite a few crack/chimney pitches but is pretty varied. Route finding seemed pretty straightforward if you get the switch between crack systems right (you move rightwards at some point). Enjoy, it's a fantastic route.

In reply to danm:

Thanks Dan; helpful

Was hoping not to have to take axe crampons or big boots!

In reply to JJL:

Agree on the shuttle bit - we got a parking ticket sent to us in the post, so don't think you can get away with it.

In reply to JJL:
It's a great route, weather permitting (i.e. whether it's raining or not) it should be dry and fine end of June. I don't think you would need crampons.

It's a fantastic route and line - enjoy! and the descent is quick and easy. I think we did the route popped down to the hut for lunch and did an easy route up the Vajolet-towers for pudding!

Start early to avoid the queues!

Route finding was no problem. Take a medium rack, (set of nuts, a few friends, slings and runners) there is some fixed gear. The route is mainly a lot easier than the hardest bits.

In reply to Heike:

HVS ish overall?

In reply to JJL:
Yeah, I would say that's about right. But not sustained at that standard. Some really nice easier pitches with lots of nice jugs! Ahhh, just makes me want to go to the Dolomites again...