In reply to USBRIT:
> Its just that onsighting on the higher grades has almost been sent to the history books.
Nonsense. For many reasons:
1) If you only onsight or even trad climb all the time you don't stay strong/fit enough to onsight the routes you're on about. Both Caff and Ryan are 9a climbers, that's what allows them to operate at the very top level in trad. That level of sport climbing takes huge training and commitment. You don't get that fitness climbing trad, but when those at that level "have a break" from sport climbing these are the results you get.
2) There's a good number of people out on-sighting/flashing/ground up on E5+ on a regular basis. The Top ascents page (
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/topascents.html ) only lists those that are logged. Many of the people doing such routes don't log stuff on here.
3) Onsighting at that E8+ level is mentally demanding, for most routes, it's confidently on-sighting >8a on trad (see point 1) and not the sort of thing you can do daily
4) The routes available to on-sight/flash/ground up at E7+ are limited and are specific to a climber, and might require specific conditions etc.
5) People are ultimately in it to have fun, not kill themselves (hence why stuff like Indian Face still hasn't had a flash)
There's quite a few attempts happening here and there, but for E8+ try Jordan on Chicama (he'd on-sighted 2 or 3 E7s that week already + loads of E5/6s), Pearson on Something's Burning and Muy Caliente, McClure on loads of stuff, Dawes Rides a Shovelhead, Strawberries etc. List goes on....
Post edited at 16:32