UKC

Dinas Cromlech/Cenotaph Corner descent

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 humptydumpty 26 May 2016
Thinking of having a go at Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c), but have a couple of potential issues

a) I doubt my partner will want to second it
b) I only have a single rope (150ft)

Would it be viable to ab on a single line to clean the route, and then walk round to fetch the rope? From this thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=414751, it sounds like that could be a bit involved (e.g. down-climbing Tributary Crack (D).

Another option might be to clean on ab, and then ascend the rope to fetch it (then solo up tributary crack and walk off). How good is protection for building a top anchor?

A further question: looking at photos, the belay ledge is quite high up - is it easy to climb down from it?
 ChrisBrooke 26 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:
It's leaving it to chance, but you could ask someone else there if they fancy a quick second to clean the route for you. Lower them, then walk off.

Best option is to borrow another rope, ab the line, stripping it, and pull the ropes. The anchor up there is set up to ab off.

Re: the belay ledge. Presumably you're talking about the one at the bottom of the route. It's slopey, and hard to get to for a non-climber. Not somewhere to just hang out. Easy enough to down climb, but exposed and a bit awkward in a couple of places with a big pack on.
Post edited at 15:45
OP humptydumpty 26 May 2016
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Thanks Chris - that's really helpful info. Doesn't sound like the belay ledge at the bottom will be very popular with my second, but we'll be up that way for Spiral Stairs & Flying Buttress so I guess we'll see what it looks like. Knowing there's a fixed app point, the second rope option does sound very simple. I've another single I could bring, although I could do without the extra weight!
 ChrisBrooke 26 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

It'll be a pain leading the corner on two singles - it's a long route so you'll have the weight of both of them hanging from you by the top. However, much less of a pain than trying to climb/walk off. It's a couple of years since I was up there, but from memory there's a bunch of tat and mailons to ab from.
Good luck with the route. Bridge to glory!

In reply to humptydumpty:

Climb on one single, top out, pull rope up thru gear, lower end off for connecting to second rope, pull up & ab off 2 ropes, cleaning route. Still a faff, but better than hauling the weight of 2 ropes thru the high crux!
If your second is prepared to climb Spiral Stairs & Flying Buttress they shouldn't have any (real) trouble with accessing/leaving the belay ledge. Rucksacks/extra gear can be left beneath Cemetery Gates access scramble.
Have fun, keep calm & save a little for the top moves
In reply to humptydumpty:

Walking round to get the rope once you've abseiled down to strip the gear is no big deal. From the descent route it's quite an easy solo down to the top of Cenotaph. The descent route at the right-hand end and down the scree is straightforward and takes a matter of minutes.
In reply to humptydumpty:

Of course your best bet by far is to persuade someone else to second it.
OP humptydumpty 26 May 2016
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

> Climb on one single, top out, pull rope up thru gear, lower end off for connecting to second rope, pull up & ab off 2 ropes, cleaning route. Still a faff, but better than hauling the weight of 2 ropes thru the high crux!

Bingo!
 ashtond6 26 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

My personal opinion,

Leave it and do it with a more able partner. That way it will be more fun and you can enjoy it together.
3
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

> It'll be a pain leading the corner on two singles

What on earth are you talking about? That's how 90+% of ascents are made IME.

jcm
5
 deacondeacon 27 May 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Of course they're not. Who lugs two single ropes up to the cromlech when you could just use halves.

To the op: Buxtoncoffeelovers system is the obvious system but I'd defo recommend treating yourself to some new ropes. Half ropes are invaluable on long wandering (like spiral stairs) mountain routes, and you can get them for £95/pair from rock&run at the minute.
OP humptydumpty 27 May 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

I climb routes that would be more convenient with halves about once a year, but for 95 quid I could justify a pair (plus a smaller belay device). Sadly they've sold out.

Spiral stairs definitely looks winding, and I might double up for the first pitch (it's 20m, according to my guidebook).
In reply to humptydumpty:

I found the scramble back down from the corner after seconding it one of the scariest I have done. Not hard, but insecure moves above a drop that your probably wouldn't survive if you slipped off.

If your belayer is not particularly confident they might want a rope on when coming down it.

Is it just me who thinks that? Surprised no one else has mentioned it.
 ChrisBrooke 27 May 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I'll assume you've just misunderstood what I've written (or forgotten the single/half/twin rope nomenclature).

OP humptydumpty 27 May 2016
In reply to mountain.martin:

Thanks martin - important info. If I use the buxtoncoffee method then my belayer should stay safely at the bottom.
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

> I'll assume you've just misunderstood what I've written (or forgotten the single/half/twin rope nomenclature).

The latter. I've not only forgotten but have never bothered to learn it. No-one in the UK has a single rope which is specially heavy so they can lead suitable trad pitches on it, surely?

jcm
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