UKC

NEWS: Geocache, 9a+, repeated by Ondra

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 26 May 2016
Alex Megos on Geocache, ~9, Frankenjura, 3 kbAccording to his 8a-scorecard, Adam Ondra has repeated Alex Megos' Geocache, 9a+. at the Vogelherdgrotte in the Frankenjura. It's a rather short route of around 15m with a strange crux.

Alex made the first ascent in the autumn of 2014 and commented that the route was "not really hard,...

Read more
 humptydumpty 26 May 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Surely the news here is:

1. dawn wall bolts chopped, and
2. ondra plans to climb dawn wall

A bit more interesting than a 9a+ repeat.

And why can't he get someone else to replace the bolts, and then go for the flash?
2
In reply to humptydumpty:

Googled for a source and found this on reddit from a year ago:

> "Minutes later [James Lucas] stopped jumaring to hear Brett explain the earlier rockfall on Kevin's speakerphone. A climber had purposely smashed the summit bolts on the Dawn Wall. He'd also cut the hanging fixed rope. The chopped end of the rope had wrapped around a giant flake below the summit. Brett had tried to jumar to the top on a second set of lines, but stopped when he saw the chopped rope. Erik Sloan, the Dawn Wall's head rigger, had rapped down to rescue him off the wall. When they tugged on the severed line to free it, the huge rock dislodged and cartwheeled down the wall.
> "It went by two feet from my head," Brett said. This was the worst incident in a series of of El Capitan sabotages aimed at various climbers during the Fall/Winter season. Someone had cut the fixed lines on the East Ledges, stranding a photographer on the top until morning. Stashed water had been dumped and a note saying "F*ck you" was left on the top of the Salathe headwall, meant for a sponsored team attempting an El Cap/Half Dome free link-up.
> This occurred during the final redpoint push, when Tommy and Kevin were only 5-6 pitches from the top."

Crazy if true! Also I agree, I don't know why Ondra can't pay someone to replace the bolts and go for the flash himself.
 Didymus 26 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

what he said
 stp 27 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:
Surely actually climbing something is more newsworthy than chopping bolts or thinking about climbing. Geocache is not just another 9a. It's always seemed a bit of an enigma given the fact it took Megos 5 days.

And besides 9a+ is still newsworthy. Only a handful of people have climbed harder. Done in a day is even more exceptional.
Post edited at 08:53
 humptydumpty 27 May 2016
In reply to stp:

I climb way more routes than I chop You might be right about this route & 9a+ in general though.
 Max factor 27 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

I can't get my head round a flash attempt at Dawn Wall. It just seems so unlikely given the difficultly, size and style of climbing that I'd be amazed if anyone ever has a serious go at it. In other words, not sure the bolts being chopped is the real reason for not trying a flash attempt.
 SenzuBean 27 May 2016
In reply to Max factor:
Considering the Nose is easier, and has only been free climbed like 7 times (including repeat ascents) - none of which were Flashes - I think it seems mighty unlikely too.

More or less comprehensive list of free ascents in Yosemite:
http://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
Post edited at 11:35
 stp 27 May 2016
In reply to Max factor:

Ondra has onsighted several 9a's in the past. The Dawn Wall 9a pitch is not that steep, more technical from what I've seen. Also there is video footage of the route so Ondra would be able to study that in detail and have the climb almost 'wired' before he even starts up it. So totally different from trying onsight. The thing most needed - beside the bolts of course - would be good conditions. I think if it was cool and dry it would be very helpful on that kind of terrain.

Given his ability, often thought of as the best climber in world, I think it would be daft not to try to flash it. Shame about the bolts though.
 stp 03 Jun 2016
Andy Gamisou 03 Jun 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

> Surely the news here is:

Would have thought the real news is that someone understood something from the world's worst website. The only thing I can glean from it (other than how not to design an on-line media presence) is me me me.
 Morgan Woods 04 Jun 2016
In reply to stp:

I would definitely want a stick clip for that :p

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...