UKC

Osiris (VS 4c)
Scavenger (VS 4c)

Which one to do? Generally get free reign to pick the trad route or two of the sports climbing trip so which one will it be?
Is there anything else in the area, VS/HS/S

In reply to zimpara:

Osiris is the best VS on Gower by a mile.

In reply to zimpara:

Nat Not (VS 4c) Good luck!

In reply to zimpara:

I have a lot of love for this climb, better than Scavenger IMHO.
Arch Slab (VS 4c)

In reply to zimpara:

Osiris by miles, and if your feeling brave Horus at HVS

In reply to zimpara:

Shelob (HS 4b) for a bit of fun.

In reply to Anoetic:

Bit of a coward here tbh... rack is getting smaller everytime I bail off something well ard'.
Thanks for the votes. I didn't include arch slab as it looks rather spicy tbh.

In reply to The Ivanator: Not exactly straightforward is it

In reply to zimpara:


I thought it was a tad harder than Scavenger but better climbing. I don't remember it being badly protected. They are both nice routes.

In reply to alan moore:


Seconded, a beaut route.

In reply to zimpara:

Depends on your style of climbing.
Scavenger is probably more sustained and technical. Osiris is fairly straightforward to the overhang and then a quick pull through the lip and it's done.
Both have good gear, though there have been accidents (fatal?) on Scavenger due to the gear 'un-zipping' from the bottom - get your belayer to stand close in, or fashion a multi-directional low bit of gear.
Better rope management is required on Osiris and using two is pretty much essential. If memory serves me right, it might actually be easier to use a single on Scavenger?
Osiris has the advantage of the downstairs routes of King Wall. These are tidal, so time it right and do a few routes to warm up on King Wall, before moving to the non-tidal upper tier (Fall Bay Buttress) where Osiris is located.
Additionally, the beach at Fall Bay is better than the one at Three Cliffs.

Osiris, say hallo to the wooden peg...

In reply to zimpara:
Under Milk Wood (VS 4a)

Just because - it's great plus how often do you get a VS 4a? (although it's definitely 4b getting into the hole at the top)

Make sure to place as much gear as possible, especially any big gear, before the top section. Not because there is any chance of you falling out, just because you don't want it on your harness as you begin the wriggle!

In reply to andrewmcleod:

This fat boy couldn't get into the hole.

In reply to zimpara:

I thought scavenger was only quite good but better than arch slab. Osiris is a better route, more varied and exciting. Whilst there is a definite crux actually there is a lot of good vs climbing on it. I think sections of the lower wall warrent vs as does the traverse.

In reply to davidbeynon:


and the image of two red trousered legs thrashing away as you dangled out of it is with me still *chortle*.

In reply to FactorXXX:


I believe there have been fatal accidents on Scavenger, though probably before the advent of modern gear. Agree with these tactics - not a route to take lightly.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Hi Mick,

First did Scavenger back in 1980....wires and hexs.....certainly required a competent leader at that time.

Barbeg

In reply to barbeg:

We do it now with polish - still requires a competent leader now

In reply to zimpara:

Osiris is the obvious choice, with Isis nearby as a good HVS (it was my first HVS cone to think of it) The VS's on Juniper Wall, opposite Paviland are well worth doing. Over the Horizon and Socialist Worker if memory serves me correct. Much more solid at VS than your average (ie soft Gower VS) and great positions and exposure.

In reply to Cardi: Didn't Isis used to be VS 4c - but did something (a block) fall out of it some years ago.

In reply to barbeg:

My one and only time was circa 1982, solo, on a burning hot day with every hold slick with dried salt. Interesting... great route, mind. Roped or un-roped, it was clearly deserving of respect. And I guess that's part of what makes memorable routes.

Mick

In reply to Michael Hood:


It did, I first climbed it in the 90's when it was graded thus. One of my first VS leads.

In reply to zimpara:
The Bottle (VS 4b)

I also quite like this climb, just watch out for fulmars in the back of the cave of the first pitch. You can climb as one pitch if you wish but I find a belay at the cave works well.

In reply to Lion Bakes:
The Bottle (VS 4b) takes you via a birdshit caked cave that stinks to high heaven, but if you like that kind of thing! (perhaps you are exacting a subtle vengeance on Zimpara for some of his recent posts, my suggestion of Nat Not was of a similar vein!). Not sure what the OP has done to warrant me spending time and thought on a constructive post, but others might find the thread useful too, so here are some suggestions that along with Osiris (VS 4c) would make a good day out for a VS climber in the Fall Bay area:
Gethsemane (S 4a) (nice warm up)
Ragnarok (HS 4a) (tidal route on the Lower Tier [King Wall])
South West Diedre Variant (VS 4c) (easier version of a classic HVS)
Stuff on Upper Jacky's Tor is also just a short walk away:
A Bit on the Side (VS 4b) (soft VS)
Codpiece (HS 4a)
All There (VS 4c)
Thanksgiving (HVS 5a) (good starter HVS if you are going well).
And of course I have a list for Gower:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=965

In reply to The Ivanator:
Some good ones in there, a great build up to Seth