UKC

I am planning my first sport climbing trip to Spain but I cannot decide between Siurana and Costa Blanca. I'd
be grateful for advice on which destination would offer the best overall experience as well as ease and convenience.
I on-sight 7b's and redpoint 7c/8a's (i enjoy shorter more powerful routes and crimpy wall climbing). I would need to find partner out there; I plan to stay at either the Orange House or the main campsite at Siurana. I will be hiring a car, but prefer walking in to the climbing from accommodation rather than driving.

In reply to Paulos:

For ease and convenience, then probably Costa Blanca, but for stunning scenery and a more "remote mountain village" feel I'd go Siurana all the way.

I only did a few relatively easy climbs in the area on less well known crags, so can't comment on the quality of climbs at your level.

In reply to Paulos:

I've never been to Costa Blanca so hard to compare. In general, Siurana fits what you prefer. The 2 main valleys are within walking distance of the campsite and with some sectors literally 5 minutes walk in from the camp site.

If you enjoy shorter more powerful routes, check out sectors La Olla, La Trona where at those grades you'll find loads to play at! In terms of crimping wall climbing - that's what Siurana is famous for really. Espero Primavera has some of the finest routes that fit the bill, quite long though - generally 30 meters.

In general the climbing there seems to me more "British" compared to other Spanish venues as it's often cruxy and hard to read (hence hard to O/S, at least for me).

Truly stunning surroundings.

Having said that, Costa Blanca seems amazing from what I've seen in articles and photos, and I'm sure you could have a blast there as well.

In reply to Paulos:

If wanting to walk to the crags perhaps siurana will give the best selection of routes to you. I think it's a long walk from the orange house to short powerful routes.....perhaps someone else can advise differently?

In reply to tmawer:


Ding ding....

While I've not personally been to Siurana, I got the picture from my friends that the gorge is mainly accessed by walking.

Where as the climbing in more spaced out in Costa Blanca (different locations offer different climbing).

Depending on the time the OP is travelling, perhaps Rodellar should also be considered. Especially given the grades he climbs...

In reply to Paulos:

The Sella refuge would be loads better than the Orange House if you want to walk to the crags. It's a drive to every crag from the Orange House. That said you'll deffo meet people there and it's a great place to stay. Walking to crags would be extremely limiting.

In reply to Paulos:

Sirurana. You can easily walk to so many good areas, and the climbing is generally better for single pitch sport.

In reply to Paulos:

The replies so far have been really helpful, thanks a lot

In reply to Paulos:

For single pitch, i think siurana is amazing and costa blanca a bit unispiring. So I'd go for siurana if I were you.

In reply to Paulos:
Have been to the Costa a couple of times and stayed at Orange House on the second visit. Great place and decent atmosphere but as others have said, you're driving to crags nomatter what. I thought Costa Blanca was good, but went to Chulilla last winter and that was, for me, in a different league and way more enjoyable in terms of the climbing on offer. I've not been to Siurana, but if I were choosing somewhere again, I'd go there in favour of CB.

Edit: links to a couple of vid.s I made of Costa Blanca climbing - hopefully these'll give you a flavour of the area and the Orange House:
- vimeo.com/88782114
- vimeo.com/88857760

In reply to DaveR:

Im only looking at single pitches so that's really useful advice, thanks. Im definitely leaning more towards Siurana now. Also since it seems like it would offer more of an authentic Spanish feel as well as better scenery.

In reply to Paulos:

The time of year you go has a bearing too, siurana is up in the mountains and is quite a lot further north, so can get pretty cold midwinter. Ive been there in march (great temps) and april ( a bit hot but still ok). I think its a great place.

In reply to Bristoldave:

This. I go to the Costa blanca every winter because of the climate. There are lots of other places in spain that have arguably better climbing, or at least, more convenient to access.

In reply to Paulos:

Thanks for the lovely comments peeps about The Orange House.

Walking to crags from us is a no no, but you can always find partners and end up in some amazing locations, from the sea cliffs to the high mountains and loads in the middle!

I would have suggested Chuililla over Siurana depending on time of year due to colder mid winter!

Whatever you decide enjoy Spain.

Sam Orange House

In reply to Paulos:

Seems strange to go to the trouble of hiring a car and just have it parked up for the duration of the trip.

Al

In reply to Paulos:

Suirana is better in every single way in my opinion. Especially at those grades.

In reply to Paulos:

At your grades and preferred style Siurana has to be the better choice. It is also by far the more attractive part of Spain. Chulillia doesn't yet have the number of routes in Siurana. If you like pockets, Margalef is another option, plenty of short and powerful routes at your grades there. The one advantage Costa Blanca has over Siurana is milder midwinter weather. Chulilla has similar weather to Costa Blanca, Margalef is somewhere between the two areas.

The Orange House is good for Brits who like the idea of abroad but don't like the inconvenience of having to speak foreign. Much like the Costa Blanca in general.