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Alex Megos has made the FFA (First Foreign Ascent) of Ben Moon's Hubble at Raven Tor. Ben made the first ascent in 1990 and it's regarded as the first 9a in the world.Stay tuned for more!
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In reply to galpinos:
Sadly, I don't think it is.
At least it doesn't say FJFA (First Johnny Foreigner Ascent)
Headline should be:
'Bloke that climbs really hard climbs something that isn't too hard for him but has some history.'
> P.S. I'm assuming the FFA thing is a joke?
Sadly, I don't think it is.
At least it doesn't say FJFA (First Johnny Foreigner Ascent)
Headline should be:
'Bloke that climbs really hard climbs something that isn't too hard for him but has some history.'
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In reply to Steve nevers:
You'd be surprised, hubble is supposedly 8B/+ boulder. Which may well be one of hardest cruxes on a route. Especially since he has only bouldered 8C
> Headline should be:
> 'Bloke that climbs really hard climbs something that isn't too hard for him but has some history.'
You'd be surprised, hubble is supposedly 8B/+ boulder. Which may well be one of hardest cruxes on a route. Especially since he has only bouldered 8C
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In reply to UKC News: Whether or not this particular ascent is newsworthy, it would be nice to have a report on what Alex did on his trip to UK (still ongoing I think) and what his thoughts are about the routes he's done and crags he's been to. Someone with that range of experience at the top level would be able to give a non-biased opinion about the quality & difficulty of our hardest sports routes (similarly to what Ondra did a couple of years ago).
On the one hand we're always getting the "the UK's crags wouldn't even be noticed amongst the continent's limestone" type comments but on the other hand the two top (or to avoid controversy 2 out of the top 3 - I've no idea whether Sharma's been over here) sports climbers in the world have visited the UK to do some of our climbs so there must be something worthwhile about them.
On the one hand we're always getting the "the UK's crags wouldn't even be noticed amongst the continent's limestone" type comments but on the other hand the two top (or to avoid controversy 2 out of the top 3 - I've no idea whether Sharma's been over here) sports climbers in the world have visited the UK to do some of our climbs so there must be something worthwhile about them.
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In reply to ashtond6:
8C being basically top tier world class standard, believe the world has yet to see a 8C+ boulder.
Note i did say 'isn't too hard for him', going on the old '3 tries and done' method the climbing media used to bang on about.
Of course well done to him, but UKC does tend to shoot its load a bit early, 'blokes climb thing' isn't really an article, get some statements from him about it etc, thats an article!
8C being basically top tier world class standard, believe the world has yet to see a 8C+ boulder.
Note i did say 'isn't too hard for him', going on the old '3 tries and done' method the climbing media used to bang on about.
Of course well done to him, but UKC does tend to shoot its load a bit early, 'blokes climb thing' isn't really an article, get some statements from him about it etc, thats an article!
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In reply to UKC News:
Ben Moon has posted on ukb saying -
"I'm taking him up to Kilnsey today so he can do Northern Lights. I am wondering if he will want to try the onsight or flash..."
Looking forward to news from today then, that buttress is the jewel in the crown
Ben Moon has posted on ukb saying -
"I'm taking him up to Kilnsey today so he can do Northern Lights. I am wondering if he will want to try the onsight or flash..."
Looking forward to news from today then, that buttress is the jewel in the crown
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In reply to Steve nevers:
I think that's just modern social media. Long gone are the days of hearing the news on the grapevine then reading a proper article in Crags/OTE/whatever at the end of the month, you need to have "Newsflashes" to prove you are on the pulse and maintain site traffic. As long as they do follow it up (which they imply they will) I have no issue.
> Of course well done to him, but UKC does tend to shoot its load a bit early, 'blokes climb thing' isn't really an article, get some statements from him about it etc, thats an article!
I think that's just modern social media. Long gone are the days of hearing the news on the grapevine then reading a proper article in Crags/OTE/whatever at the end of the month, you need to have "Newsflashes" to prove you are on the pulse and maintain site traffic. As long as they do follow it up (which they imply they will) I have no issue.
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In reply to Steve nevers:
Several boulders have been given 8C+ (e.g. Gioia, Terranova, the Process). However, I believe there has not yet been an 8C+ that has seen more than one ascent confirm the grade.
E.g. Gioia originally by Core 8C/+, Ondra gave it 8C+, Nalle said 8C
Terranova - FA by Ondra, no repeats
The Process - FA by D Woods, no repeats
See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987
> 8C being basically top tier world class standard, believe the world has yet to see a 8C+ boulder.
Several boulders have been given 8C+ (e.g. Gioia, Terranova, the Process). However, I believe there has not yet been an 8C+ that has seen more than one ascent confirm the grade.
E.g. Gioia originally by Core 8C/+, Ondra gave it 8C+, Nalle said 8C
Terranova - FA by Ondra, no repeats
The Process - FA by D Woods, no repeats
See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987
Post edited at 12:32
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In reply to samwillo:
Kind of makes what i said correct then, World is still to see an 8C+ confirmed boulder, therefore the statement of 'He only boulders 8C' is piffle.
And that also kind of leads nicely into the 'Is Hubble 9a or 8c+?' debate again, get Megos input, and then we have a news article!
> Several boulders have been given 8C+ (e.g. Gioia, Terranova, the Process). However, I believe there has not yet been an 8C+ that has seen more than one ascent confirm the grade.
> E.g. Gioia originally by Core 8C/+, Ondra gave it 8C+, Nalle said 8C
> Terranova - FA by Ondra, no repeats
> The Process - FA by D Woods, no repeats
Kind of makes what i said correct then, World is still to see an 8C+ confirmed boulder, therefore the statement of 'He only boulders 8C' is piffle.
And that also kind of leads nicely into the 'Is Hubble 9a or 8c+?' debate again, get Megos input, and then we have a news article!
Post edited at 12:39
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In reply to samwillo:
In the next The Ledge-podcast I, Daniel Woods and Dave Graham discuss this quite a lot. I think it will be up next week. I've also made a podcast with Alex Megos, which will come out later.
In the next The Ledge-podcast I, Daniel Woods and Dave Graham discuss this quite a lot. I think it will be up next week. I've also made a podcast with Alex Megos, which will come out later.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
I'm afraid it also has a bit to do with potential market for sponsors in the visited countries - so pretty sure that a professional climber nowadays will find everything "awesome and the best he's done so far, don't forget to visit my sponsors sites".
drolex is sponsored by East Cheshire tap water and generic brands of toilet rolls
> On the one hand we're always getting the "the UK's crags wouldn't even be noticed amongst the continent's limestone" type comments but on the other hand the two top (or to avoid controversy 2 out of the top 3 - I've no idea whether Sharma's been over here) sports climbers in the world have visited the UK to do some of our climbs so there must be something worthwhile about them.
I'm afraid it also has a bit to do with potential market for sponsors in the visited countries - so pretty sure that a professional climber nowadays will find everything "awesome and the best he's done so far, don't forget to visit my sponsors sites".
drolex is sponsored by East Cheshire tap water and generic brands of toilet rolls
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In reply to Michael Hood:
Pretty sure Sharma came over in 2009
> (or to avoid controversy 2 out of the top 3 - I've no idea whether Sharma's been over here)
Pretty sure Sharma came over in 2009
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In reply to drolex:
Maybe just politeness too. I wonder what Megos has actually said about Raven Tor in German?
> I'm afraid it also has a bit to do with potential market for sponsors in the visited countries - so pretty sure that a professional climber nowadays will find everything "awesome and the best he's done so far, don't forget to visit my sponsors sites".
Maybe just politeness too. I wonder what Megos has actually said about Raven Tor in German?
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In reply to UKC News:
It's newsworthy. It's been tried unsuccessfully by many world class non-local climbers including Ondra. The first foreign ascent thing is clearly required detail for the story, but turning it into an acronym is nonsense, especially when it already means something else. Makes the writing look a bit daft.
It's newsworthy. It's been tried unsuccessfully by many world class non-local climbers including Ondra. The first foreign ascent thing is clearly required detail for the story, but turning it into an acronym is nonsense, especially when it already means something else. Makes the writing look a bit daft.
Post edited at 14:21
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In reply to Niels:
I met Sharma at a talk he gave in 2011 and I asked him if he's done much climbing in the UK. The answer was a little bit but not really.
> Pretty sure Sharma came over in 2009
I met Sharma at a talk he gave in 2011 and I asked him if he's done much climbing in the UK. The answer was a little bit but not really.
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In reply to JR:
Now what would have been *actually* useful would have been an explanation that other pre-eminent climbers were thwarted by the route but Megos succeeded.
"FFA" is already used as an acronym for something else and even the expansion, "First Foreign Ascent", comes across as silly without the explanation of why that's noteworthy.
Now what would have been *actually* useful would have been an explanation that other pre-eminent climbers were thwarted by the route but Megos succeeded.
"FFA" is already used as an acronym for something else and even the expansion, "First Foreign Ascent", comes across as silly without the explanation of why that's noteworthy.
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In reply to drolex: Hmm, you're probably right about the sponsorship - afraid my normally active cynic module was switched off
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In reply to UKC News:
I would like to see Alex try "Violent New Breed" whilst he's over here, seeing as he's so strong (Youtube his training clips!), and as a UK 9a+ it never seems to get mentioned anymore..... perhaps it's overgrown by now?
I would like to see Alex try "Violent New Breed" whilst he's over here, seeing as he's so strong (Youtube his training clips!), and as a UK 9a+ it never seems to get mentioned anymore..... perhaps it's overgrown by now?
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In reply to Wood for Trees:
Weather was shite up there - very strong winds and cold so no success stories from Kilnsey today though there were a few valiant attempts.
> Looking forward to news from today then, that buttress is the jewel in the crown
Weather was shite up there - very strong winds and cold so no success stories from Kilnsey today though there were a few valiant attempts.
In reply to UKC News:
It's also significant that this is by far the fastest ascent of Hubble ever. Apart from trying it briefly a couple of years ago he did it in four or five tries yesterday - so pretty much as good as a one day ascent.
It's also significant that this is by far the fastest ascent of Hubble ever. Apart from trying it briefly a couple of years ago he did it in four or five tries yesterday - so pretty much as good as a one day ascent.
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In reply to Steve nevers:
Personally I always think the nitpicking and negativity on here says far more about the poster than whatever it is they're whinging about.
> Sadly, I don't think it is.
Personally I always think the nitpicking and negativity on here says far more about the poster than whatever it is they're whinging about.
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In reply to UKC News:
From Alex's Instagram
Nicely put I thought.
From Alex's Instagram
> 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks Ben Moon for putting up that thing and having a vision! A vision for what is possible, the next step!
Nicely put I thought.
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In reply to UKC News:
I wonder if anyone pointed him at Gaskin's incomplete ex-project, Brandenburg Gate.
Didn't JG do all the moves in which case it's got to be possible - you just need to be better than JG
I wonder if anyone pointed him at Gaskin's incomplete ex-project, Brandenburg Gate.
Didn't JG do all the moves in which case it's got to be possible - you just need to be better than JG
Post edited at 08:55
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In reply to Michael Hood:
No one is stronger than than the G.
> I wonder if anyone pointed him at Gaskin's incomplete ex-project, Brandenburg Gate.
> Didn't JG do all the moves in which case it's got to be possible - you just need to be better than JG
No one is stronger than than the G.
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In reply to Luke Owens:
Or more mythical. Just like the holds on The Brandenburg Gate project.
Andy F
> No one is stronger than than the G.
Or more mythical. Just like the holds on The Brandenburg Gate project.
Andy F
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In reply to Luke Owens:
agreed, sacrilege to say anyone can be stronger than gaskins. cos its not possible.
agreed, sacrilege to say anyone can be stronger than gaskins. cos its not possible.
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In reply to Michael Hood:
He knows of it and was put off by the fact he couldn't see any holds on it. Mutation holds more interest.
He knows of it and was put off by the fact he couldn't see any holds on it. Mutation holds more interest.
In reply to Phil Murray:
Overgrown? Impossible! It's the roof of a cave completely devoid of veg (and holds as far as I can tell).
> I would like to see Alex try "Violent New Breed" whilst he's over here, seeing as he's so strong (Youtube his training clips!), and as a UK 9a+ it never seems to get mentioned anymore..... perhaps it's overgrown by now?
Overgrown? Impossible! It's the roof of a cave completely devoid of veg (and holds as far as I can tell).
In reply to drolex:
Bouldery_Bits is sponsored by Romney's Kendal Mintcake, Poundland and gear bought on eebay.
> drolex is sponsored by East Cheshire tap water and generic brands of toilet rolls
Bouldery_Bits is sponsored by Romney's Kendal Mintcake, Poundland and gear bought on eebay.
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In reply to UKC News:
So some body repeats a route which is 26 years old.
I remember being ahown hubble many years ago and thinking ' is that it!'
Yes it is undoubtedly really, really, really, really hard.
But it's also about 10 feet high.
Is a repeat of this route impressive?
Yes, of course.
But then I read of some guy soloing Complete Scream or whatever it's called.
Now that's impressive.
Pmc
So some body repeats a route which is 26 years old.
I remember being ahown hubble many years ago and thinking ' is that it!'
Yes it is undoubtedly really, really, really, really hard.
But it's also about 10 feet high.
Is a repeat of this route impressive?
Yes, of course.
But then I read of some guy soloing Complete Scream or whatever it's called.
Now that's impressive.
Pmc
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In reply to baron:
A guy soloing a single pitch 7a/b who solos big walls at this level, is more newsworthy than a repeat of hubble which has had no foreign ascents?
Please
A guy soloing a single pitch 7a/b who solos big walls at this level, is more newsworthy than a repeat of hubble which has had no foreign ascents?
Please
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In reply to ashtond6:
I guess I shouldn't be asking this since we're on UKC, but why are we even having this discussion?
I guess I shouldn't be asking this since we're on UKC, but why are we even having this discussion?
In reply to HosteDenis:
Because the guy above seems to think that hubble isn't impressive?
> I guess I shouldn't be asking this since we're on UKC, but why are we even having this discussion?
Because the guy above seems to think that hubble isn't impressive?
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In reply to HosteDenis:
Because if there's one thing the UKC community love to do, it's to distill an experience with multiple variables into a one dimensional numerical scale, and then argue about where on the scale it falls.
It's of particular enjoyment when the climb is so unbelievably hard, no one doing the arguing will ever be in a position to make a sensible judgement.
Megos has given the only sensible answer. I'm not sure what people were expecting him to say. "Yes, it's 1 harder than some other completely different hard climb that I've done."
Because if there's one thing the UKC community love to do, it's to distill an experience with multiple variables into a one dimensional numerical scale, and then argue about where on the scale it falls.
It's of particular enjoyment when the climb is so unbelievably hard, no one doing the arguing will ever be in a position to make a sensible judgement.
Megos has given the only sensible answer. I'm not sure what people were expecting him to say. "Yes, it's 1 harder than some other completely different hard climb that I've done."
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In reply to UKC News:
It's the route that matters, not the grade. It really doesn't matter whether Hubble is 8c, 8c+ or 9a, it's Hubble - one of the most legendary routes out there. Another fine example would be Malvasia, Manolo's masterpiece in Dvigrad, Croatia. It was first climbed in 1988 and given 8b+ by FA. Despite numerous attempts by many strong climbers it wasn't repeated until 2010 when Cody Roth climbed it - and that's the only repeat. Oh, and Cody thinks it's a solid 8c+ - which could make it the first 8c+ in the world. But when you talk to the local climbers, nobody mentiones the grade - it's never about 8b+ or 8c+, it's always about Malvasia. Some routes are just greater than their grade.
It's the route that matters, not the grade. It really doesn't matter whether Hubble is 8c, 8c+ or 9a, it's Hubble - one of the most legendary routes out there. Another fine example would be Malvasia, Manolo's masterpiece in Dvigrad, Croatia. It was first climbed in 1988 and given 8b+ by FA. Despite numerous attempts by many strong climbers it wasn't repeated until 2010 when Cody Roth climbed it - and that's the only repeat. Oh, and Cody thinks it's a solid 8c+ - which could make it the first 8c+ in the world. But when you talk to the local climbers, nobody mentiones the grade - it's never about 8b+ or 8c+, it's always about Malvasia. Some routes are just greater than their grade.
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In reply to planetmarshall:
Basically sums it up.
> Megos has given the only sensible answer. I'm not sure what people were expecting him to say. "Yes, it's 1 harder than some other completely different hard climb that I've done."
Basically sums it up.
In reply to JR:
It's a joke.
> It's newsworthy. It's been tried unsuccessfully by many world class non-local climbers including Ondra. The first foreign ascent thing is clearly required detail for the story, but turning it into an acronym is nonsense, especially when it already means something else. Makes the writing look a bit daft.
It's a joke.
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
Perhaps I should have written....
"Makes the writing look a bit of a joke."
So it was clearly... a joke.
Perhaps I should have written....
"Makes the writing look a bit of a joke."
So it was clearly... a joke.
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