UKC

Heading out to Lofoten for a few weeks in August, struggling hard with office life at the moment so looking for suggestions of routes to drool over between now and then.

Obviously Vestpillaren Direct (n6) is on the list. Haven't got any further than that, there's too much choice. Storpillaren (n7) is on the aspirational list...

Ideally I'd like longer routes (the longer the better) at around VS-E2, generally OK with bold leads.

In reply to alexm198:


Apart from Presten, probably better selection across on the mainland on Stetind and Eidetind etc. for long routes at that sort of grade. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=430. On Lofoten you won't go too far wrong with the obvious choices in the Rockfax.

In reply to alexm198:

Bare Blåbær (n5-)

It's only 5 pitches but I thought Bare Blåbær was superb at VS, one of the best routes I've done at the grade and the route that made me learn to love jamming.

In reply to alexm198:

Just do any of the routes with Top 50 from Rockfax. They are all brilliant. Make sure to do Vestpillaren. Rack wise for Lofoten bring.
1 x Black Alien
2 x Blue Aliens
2 x Green Aliens
2 x Yellow Aliens
2 x Purple Camalot's
2 x Green Camalot's
2 x Red Camalots
2 x Gold Camalots
1 x Blue Camalot
2 -3 Micro Wires
Nuts from 1 - 7
1 x 240 Sling
3 x 120 Sling
5 Normal length Draws
5 x 60cm Draws
2 x 50 meter Ropes.

Have fun.

In reply to climbingpixie:



Ditto that. It is phenomenal.

In reply to climbingpixie:



It's actually 7 (or 6 if you link pitches 1 and 2).

In reply to HeMa:

Yup. It's 5 pitches to the point that the bolted ab line meets the route, but there are another two pitches above that. Pitch 6 is of roughly the same standard as the rest, 7 is considerably easier if I remember rightly.

Someone dislikes the fact that they didn't fiish the route

In reply to Aigen:

That's an incredibly specific rack list! Alternatively you could just say bring a good comprehensive rack for granite and you'll be fine!