UKC

All mountain ice axes

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vitas 03 Jun 2016
I am after a new pair of ice axes for mountaineering and up to grade V ice climbing. I also want them to be relevantly light for high altitude.
I am using the GRIVEL AIR TECH but when the ice gets steeper it feels a bit less competent.
I am between Grivel the light machine and Petzl Sum Tec.
Anyone that has tried them?
Or other sagestions?
 rif 05 Jun 2016
In reply to vitas:

No knowledge of the Light Machines but I have a pair of Sum'tecs and like them for what I do (Scottish winter up to grade IV). They feel well balanced (though that is a personal judgement). The thin pick penetrates neve or ice well, and when you move up, the reverse-curve picks come out more easily than down-curved ones like you have on your Airtech Evos and I had on my previous axes (Mountain Technology). They'd be great for classic snow/ice routes in the Alps, and for higher altitude.

Anyone else?
 mff513 06 Jun 2016
In reply to vitas:
I use a pair of e climb cryo tools super light stripped down tools with loads of clearance. Great design as it makes them super durable as the shift has no head connection. it is milled and the blade which is removable and replaceable fits in the head, they are a little head heavy but not by much maybe 20-30 grams. I would take a look at dmm apex's heard horror storys of petzl tools (nomic/ergo) bending the connecting rivets in the head so that puts my way of the quark or any petzl tool black Diamond vipers are sweet on solid water ice but lack the delicacy of a lighter tool. If money is the issue try looking at singing rock bandits never used them or seen them in the flesh. However I suspect the best tool for what you want is the edelrid riot it's by far the best swinging and weighted tool I've ever used but they would be stretched at VI try to use the tools first I would probably recommend trying to go vertical chill it's 45 quid but they have a selection of tools at Manchester quarks,apex, switches, nomics and the riot 45 quid will give you a a good idea of what you want so you don't spend 300 and mess up
1
 bengt 07 Jun 2016
In reply to vitas:

For technical mountaineering I would want something with a modular head, so I second the idea of Apex/Quark/Viper etc. Weight-wise, the SumTecs are listed at 495 g whereas the Quark is 550 g. The newest version of the Viper is 570 g and the Apex is the heaviest at 687 g inc. pick weights.

A more expensive option would be a carbon-fibre shaft such as the Cobra or the North Machine.

An all mountain axe is going to be a compromise in one way or another but I would err on the side of adaptability rather than light weight. Trying them out side by side is a good idea too.
Climber Phil 07 Jun 2016
In reply to bengt:
The north machine is a very nice tool. Felt a touch weird at first with the shaft being so light. It's a good all round tool though

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