UKC

I managed to track Alex Megos down at his hideaway to ask him a few questions after his repeat of Hubble. Alex is the only one who has repeated both Hubble and Action directe.

Ok so, one question: can you compare Hubble to Action directe?One answer: no...
Action directe is 16 moves...

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In reply to UKC News:

Don't think you'll ever get a straight answer about Hubble being 9a while Alex is so involved and sponsored by Cafe Kraft. Brilliant effort.

In reply to UKC News:

Good, that's cleared that up, then...

In reply to UKC News:

what an inspiring interview....

In reply to UKC News:

enlightening...

In reply to UKC News:

As clear as mud. Thanks.

In reply to UKC News:

the politics of climbing in full effect. He can't exactly come out and take a big dump on the most famous route of his 'home' crag by saying Hubble is 9a. The games climbers play...

In reply to jsmcfarland:

Sounds to me like he was saying Hubble was really a boulder problem and not comparable.

In reply to jsmcfarland:

Is it not possible just to take what he says at face value? I believe him when he says that for him, Hubble felt OK on the day and easier than Kabbah.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

the messaging seems pretty clear to me - he doesn't think it's 9a

In reply to Donald82:


Sounds like he doesn't even think its a route.

In reply to UKC News:

Sounds like the sample size of climbers who have done the routes is not yet big enough to give an answer with real statistical significance.

In reply to UKC News:

The most entertaining aspect of this (for me) is watching Jens' ongoing loathing of UKC continue to play out on 8a.nu

That Mick Ryan grading article really got under his skin, didn't it?

In reply to UKC News:
What I find interesting is that people who have not climbed the route wants it to be 9a (for the greatness of the Country !?) wheres none (more Brits than not) of those who climbed it suggested it ! LOL We even print our own guide books with 9a on it...

In reply to UKC News:

There's an interview on Planetmountain with more substance, details, and clarity:

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hub...

"Did Hubble suit your style?
It’s not my absolute ideal style of climbing. I’d say tiny crimps and long moves, more than pocket climbing, are my style, but Hubble did seem to suit me. Let’s just say I’ve climbed some 8c+ that have felt a lot harder. And I’ve climbed some 8c+ that have felt a lot easier.

Grades aren’t an exact science
No, and to get a better idea more climbers will have to repeat it. Six really isn’t very much. Perhaps the following will help you understand what I meant before about style. Yesterday I climbed another two 8c+ at Raven Tor, Kaabah and Evolution. I got on Keebah immediately after Hubble but didn’t get up it, so I sent it yesterday, then did Evolution in 3 attempts. If you ask me which of the three felt hardest, I’d say Kaabah. Which is funny, because it’s the one that has got the most repeats, the one that most feel is the easiest. It just goes to show how much style matters and how difficult it is to grade something."

In reply to Pino:
None of the climbers who repeated it had climbed 9a at the time of their repeat except Steve Mac. So of course all they could say was whether it was harder than other routes they had done. Steve Mac found it really hard and thought maybe 9a. Ben Moon thought it similar in difficulty to AD (he didn't complete AD because of a finger injury). Adam Ondra who's done more 9a's than anyone, tried it and thought maybe 9a. So it seems that most in a reasonable position to judge have said 9a.

But ultimately maybe the font grade is more useful for this type of route for those wanting to try it. Alex suggested 8b, the same as Ben said years ago. By comparison he thought FRFM crux was 7c and Biographie crux was 7b (though said it suited him).

In reply to Peter Walker:

I hadn't read the Mick Ryan 'article' before (has it been deleted?) but trawled 8a and found a copy mick had posted in one of the threads there. 10/10 brilliant stuff!

In reply to jsmcfarland:
It was titled something along the lines of 'A Crazy Swede Messes With Our E Grades' and was obviously tongue in cheek, but Jens (bless him) rose spectacularly to the bait.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:


Rubbish....but don't let that get in the way of a good conspiracy theory.

In reply to jsmcfarland:

Any chance of a link? Being interested, I had a good look but haven't found it yet. Thanks

In reply to UKC News:

He has a bright future in politics.

In reply to Fishmate:
Think I found it, here: https://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.8a.nu%2Fforum%2FViewForumThrea...

Good reading.

Here are the comments for the original news post, which seems to have been deleted: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=326883

In reply to Droyd:

That's the one!

Hadn't read the UKC comments before... why is old drama so interesting : )

In reply to Droyd:

Cheers Droyd, an interesting read if somewhat perplexing in Jens inability to understand the trad grading system. Dramatic stuff!

In reply to Droyd:

That thread contains possibly the most hilarious summary of the British grading system that I've read (by user 'grigri'):


I shall be using it from now on!

In reply to Alun:

Excellent!... On that basis, I can claim my ascent of Heaven Crack as E10 7C.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

That's true for sure. If Alex would say that Hubble is 9a, he had to give back the 3 Porsches (part of our sponsor deal) immediately. Furthermore he had to abandon his right to use the company's learjet. No, he won't say anything about 9a. Cheers, Hannes (Chief Marketing Officer Café Kraft)

In reply to Familytunes:


See! Told you