UKC

I'm heading off to the dolomites for a nice long holiday this summer. We're planning on getting some of the easier (IVish) multi pitches done and need some advice.
Firstly quick draws, how many would you recommend, bearing in mind that I'm not the most confident climber and like to place a decent amount of gear.
Secondly. ropes, we've got a 70M single and a 50M single both of similar diameter. Would you take both to allow for Abseils or would the 70M suffice?
Please don't confuse my lack of confidence for a lack of competence. Just after some finer details

In reply to gateaublaster:

My experience is limited to a mere half-dozen routes, with a good few epics thrown in.

I'd take a 10-12 QDs, but be aware on some of the easier pitches (IV) you might be lucky use even half of them, this freaked out some of my partners and lead to me doing all the leading. Often the cruxes will be really well protected with pegs, but run-out elsewhere.

No sure about ropes - I always used twin 50s for both trad (perfect) and sport (less so).

Somewhere like Cinque Torre is a good place to start - if you find the trad off-putting there's plenty of sport and the refugios are close by !

I wrote this article http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=86, but it's been superceded by several by James Rushforth, who actually knows what he's talking about !

Beautiful area with great climbing, must get back there.

In reply to gateaublaster:

Personally I would say the 70m rope will be more than enough for most routes at that grade. The exceptions would be abseiling things like Civazes. But if you are going to do 40m abseils, I'd tend to go for 50m doubles instead if you have them. But that said, many descents are set up for 30m abseils. Often the guidebook will let you in on the secret.

As for quickdraws personally I carry a mix of mid length quickdraws, usually about 8 and then 4 slingdraws. There are frequent threads so slings are an essential part of the rack.

In reply to gateaublaster:

The number of quickdraws rather equates to how much gear you want to place (obviously) If you are placeing a lot of gear, though, I'd suggest staying away from really long routes such as Fidele as they will take too long.

I actually found slings rigged as quickdraws most useful to give good extension. I only ever bothered with a couple of quick draws for gear for real cruxy moves.

In reply to gateaublaster:

I took a mix of sling draws and quick draws. As has been mentioned the routes I did were run out, easy enough but trad lite. ..almost all belays are equipped.

In reply to gateaublaster:

I may be wrong but I think I've read somewhere dolomite abs tend to be set at around 40m. I've always used 50m half ropes. 5 or 6 x 60cm "sling draws" as part of your 12 quickdraw set will be useful.

In reply to gateaublaster:

Excellent folks, thanks for the heads up.. Due to budget constraints there will be no purchasing of new ropes so we'll have to make do carrying the 70 and the 50.. Essentially 2 x 60 right.. Can't wait to get there but let's not get too excited yet, still got the sports delights of finale to get stuck into first

I've been to the Dolomiti heaps for long low grade multi pitch up to IV+ ish. Unless you know what routes you are doing and how to get off, and unless the forecast is brilliant, it is far more confidence-inspiring having double ropes. But have doen many with a single 60, and crossed fingers. So def take at least your 70m single.

Note, for that kind of grade you might use about 5 or 6 pieces per 25-30m pitch max, and much of that will be (old rusty) pitons or slung rock/holes/knobs.

Below are my notes and gear list for packing for each trip:

Dolomites is all pockets and knobs with few good gear cracks. Pitons are often everywhere. On popular climbs there are cement pegs/rings for belays. Heaps of natural threads (long slings) and cam pockets with the odd crack for nuts/hexes.

Slings (4x long, 4x short, 1x extra long)
Crabs for slings x5
Quick Draws x 6 for general climbs (+ x4 extra for sports climbs) = 10
1 set nuts (3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 enough)
Hexes x 2
Camalots 0.75, 1, 2
Ab Tat (lots enough for 4-5 abseils)


Have a great time.
Bruce