UKC

Hi all just looking for a little advice regarding the Cassin route on Piz Badile.

I've been looking at this for a little while but am unsure of how practical it would be for me and a mate to attempt this. I believe I'm correct in saying that TD translates roughly as about HVS/E1 ish but I'm sure someone will correct me if not?

I climb solidly HVS/E1 and have pretty good success at E2/3 so am confident (or hope) that the climbing is within my capabilities. I've done a chunk of multipitch climbing although undoubtedly there's room for improvement so I'm efficient-ish, proficient at making belays and the like - I have however little experience of long mountain routes and do wonder whether this whole thing is a stupid idea?

I'm pretty sure I have all the equipment required, a healthy amount of common sense, know how to escape the system in an emergency and all that but am looking for advice from someone who has been there and done it.

Anyone?

In reply to MrTumnus:
You will probably be OK BUT, you need to become proficient at moving together whenever possible and the harder you can do this the better. It's difficult to get across how long these routes can feel especially when there is a long, difficult descent afterwards. On this route there are only 2 or 3 pitches that come in at HVS/E1 so you need to consider moving together for as much of the rest of the route as you feel comfortable with. In alpine climbing speed is more important than style and historically UK climbers can struggle with this concept, tending to carry too much and wasting time by building 3 point belays when a hitch round a rock should be sufficient. If you feel that you need to "pitch" every section in the same way that you would a route on Cloggy you should consider something easier. Alpine climbing is not just UK trad writ large. Good luck, it's a great route and one of the classic six Grande Courses.

Al

In reply to MrTumnus:

Awesome advice - thank you. I think we'll be ok moving together on the easier stuff so that should save us some time. Have bivi bags and all that and if we became benighted at it sounds like there's options (albeit uncomfortable ones) for bivvying down en route. Hopefully it wouldn't come to that though...

In reply to GridNorth:

Excellent post Al.

In reply to MrTumnus:

given its June you probably have time for a dress rehearsal on some of the UK 's bigger routes.

if you can't get to Scotland try climbing 10 pitchs on cloggy in a day. On the Ben climb centurion and something else in the afternoon. any of the full . height routes on the dubh loch.

technically it's well within your compass. it does have a big feel though. fortunately if your going for a while there is plenty of warm up. routes.some of which have better climbing but less atmosphere (luna lacente in the valle demello springs to mind ) have fun. lots of info on here it's definitely UkC most popular n face! !

In reply to MrTumnus:

Climbing at that standard you'll find it OK but long. Gridnorth's advice is good (it usually is!) though we didn't move together on any of it and still did it in the day. Had it not been for the mother and father of an electric storm with sleet and snow that hit us in the exit chimneys (and which we were convinced was going to kill us!) we'd have made it down the other side to the Gianetti hut I reckon. As it was we kipped in the bivi box on the summit. This was 1975 - I understand there may now be bolts sprouting on it - maybe at the stances. If so makes belaying quicker. Maybe someone who's done it recently can advise re this aspect? Brilliant climb - in my top twenty of 50 years climbing.

In reply to Martin Bennett and OP

Did it in 1975 too, down by the N Ridge in a day. Gridnorth completely right as always. Remember it is not just you but other parties who may hold you up:it is a popular route. To get round this we soloed to the snow patch. And your remarks about being caught in a storm in the exit chimneys is exactly what happened to Rébuffat on that harrowing second ascent. Abbing off is hardly an option high up imho. But nice climbing and nothing too difficult although the chimney pitches are a bit strenuous.

In reply to MrTumnus:
Good advice from Al, Martin and JCW.

It's a great route and as others have said not overly difficult, but personally I'd get a bit more alpine experience under your belt first.

No amount of UK multi-pitch or 10 routes in a day on Cloggy adequately prepares you for the scale of alpine routes, and it would be a shame to spoil the experience of what is a wonderful classic, for the sake of getting experience of a few other alpine routes in beforehand as preparation?

Also, near the top of any route on the Badile, is not the place to get caught out in a storm - especially for the inexperienced.