UKC

Gear required for paklenika croatia

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Nick_Merriman 05 Jun 2016
Hey, I'm going to croatia to climb in paklenika and trying to keep weight down in my bags for the plane as ryan air charges rediculous amounts for based! Looking to do some multipunched click, bc. The book says some gear is required... wondered if anyone old shed light on how much gear I should take... a full rack or just a couple of cams?

Thanks

Nick
 Zgemba 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Half a set of nuts (or a set of offsets), a few mid sized cams (up to yellow C4/purple Friend) and a few slings should be enough. When in doubt, run it out.
Removed User 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick_Merriman:

What Zgemba said. Some routes are fully bolted, though.
 full stottie 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Been twice and took one set of nuts and a few cams and extra slings, been plenty both occasions. Stances and many cruxes tend to be bolted.

Dave
 james.slater 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Went last year and took some trad gear but i dont think we used any of it. It might be more useful for some of the easier routes (we tended to stick to 6as and above which were fully bolted).
 Owen W-G 06 Jun 2016
In reply to full stottie:

Agreeing with the above. I recommend, on top of your sport rack,

Single set of nuts.
3 extra slings
2 or 3 cams, small-med

no more
 proandras 07 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick_Merriman:
In general Paklenica bolting follows this pattern, at least up to grade 5c:
Single pitch sport routes of the gorge (Klanci section) are very safe, bolt distance 2-2.5 m (S1-2). In multipitch route the crux moves go as in the gorge, but for other parts, the easier than the crux, the rarer bolts. 3-4 grades under the crux you can find bolts only where natural protection is impossible (S 3-4).

I think I would add a few tricam too, they are good for the solution grooves and pockets, but not necessary.
Post edited at 11:07

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...