UKC

I'm over there with the GF for the last week in August and naturally this popped up on the radar as a must climb. We can get our gear over there but obviously weight is an issue. I'm just wondering what sort of kit, gear and guidebooks members here might have used. Was there anything you might have taken that ended up being useless or something that would have helped. Rope options? That kind of stuff.

Also considering transport. Cheap hire car or the Yart bus service?

Camp sites? Wild camping? I've read bits online but the hivemind here is somewhat more in tune with a style of climbing I do.

The permit system they use there for camping and access I'm finding hard to get my head around. Any useful info about the area, especially guidebooks would be greatfully appreciated as always.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Car gives neccesary flexibility (what if a fire closes the park? ). Standard UK rack will do. Single rope is fine. Either guidebook will do albeit once on SE buttress its better to just follow your nose as queues can build on the main line, especially on the chimney (easiest and best climbing bypasses this over on the left). If you get to the top quick: drop down back and left and do the Eichorn Pinnacle.

You can't wild camp unless you get a permit, so to save money either join up with others or get something away from Tuolumne site (cheapest just out of the park on Tioga side).

Some squeeze the climbing stuff in one bag but we take an extrambag (s) and fly Virgin if we can as a 20kg sports bag each per person is free.

In reply to Offwidth:

Posts like these save me an enormous amount of research. Thanks very much.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Afternoon lightning storms can make the summit a dodgy place in August. Start early.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

One option if camping in the US is to buy a cheap tent out there (e.g. from Walmart) - good enough for likely weather in summer and cheaper than paying airline for an extra bag.