In reply to Dandan:
Hi Dan - cheers for the stats. My goals are based around 3 different crags, with each having significant overlap with the other at the same crag. More bang for yer buck, innit?
Last/Next week’s goals:
2x rehab sessions. Tick - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – sort of tick – Thursday boulder left me distinctly powered out - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad! – tick - repeat
2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar – tick – Do aero-power taper test via FoC this week.
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – once only and not with the focus I had for Baba O’Riley – repeat/get better
June goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core
fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
2x week aero-power
<75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go (75.9kg)
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress
Complete >3 from the following:
Middle third, 8a – bypassed/ticked on the way to;
Start to high Break, 8a+ - tick
Man with a Gun, 7c+/8a
Bullet, 8a+
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Waddage, 8b
Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b? – scrap this, as it has potential to re-tweak ring finger.
Add High Break to End instead, 7c+/8a?
Week 24:
M - 5x10 bottom pulls. 5x10 fingerboard pull-ups. 10x10 various press-ups. 6x20 sit-ups. 120s on/90s off FoC aero-cap/power transition: Failed 15s short on last set of 6.
T - 25km biking on an empty stomach – weight loss strategy begins! Yoga in the evening was a bit easy; Thursday class much harder.
W - CyL. Warmed-up, including doing Mr Skin (crux of traverse) a couple of times. Set off from the beginning and was surprisingly pumped after the 7b/+ start. Recovered, smashed on to wobbly block at a slightly more controlled pace than previously – recovered at wobbly block and felt the best I’ve ever done leaving here. Finally made it through the cross over from the start (f8a apparently!) and got into my inverted bat-hang semi-rest. Needless to say, I smashed on, missed out Adam’s kneebar rest (damp) and trundled on to High-break
De-pumped, then had a boulder around Bend, doing drop down from high-break for first time.
T - Bailed from a scorchio tor to Blackwell Dale. Still and humid. Sketched around for ages until arriving at a method for
Ovine (f7B) that didn’t involve lefthand lunges. Other stuff a bit damp, so went to Roadside and did
Red or Dead (f7A+) and
Jerry's Traverse (f7A+). Failed on the reverse by headtorch and ring finger felt funny so went home.
F - Lots of press-ups. 2x 5min core routines. Shoulder rehab.
S - Nowt. Enjoyable civilian duties.
S - Morning hit at CyL. Worked various bits of
Bend to the End (7b+), but fell off first RP attempt pumped silly. Second go climbed much faster, and despite the elbow out scenes -
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGjfuIuxK0C/ - got to the end successfully. Did Bend to corner twice quickly whilst pumped to firm up the engrams. Afternoon – 33km flat in 90min with the lady. Super home cooked curry feast.
Shoulder slightly grumpy this morning from hanging straight armed while recovering on Bend to End RPs.