UKC Forums - NEWS: Hardest Trad Multipitch Route in Japan

NEWS: Hardest Trad Multipitch Route in Japan - 8b+ R/X

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.

UKC News 15 Jun 2016

The world-class granite climbing venue of Mt. Mizugaki in Japan is now home to the country's hardest multipitch traditional climb at the strong hands of local climber Keita Kurakami.

His impressive new route - named Senjitsu no Ruri - is seven pitches in length and has climbing up to 8b+ in standard, with several desperate pitches featuring granite slopers and run-outs of up to 20m above trad gear.

Read more

Removed User 15 Jun 2016

In reply to UKC News:

Looks ace, but 7 desperate pitches? I reckon I could get up the last three...

Anyone want to venture an E grade?

jwi 15 Jun 2016

In reply to UKC News:

Climbing on Mizugaki has a fairly long history, but it used to be really hard to access before the big parking lot, hiking trails etc were put up in order to facilitate the emperor's hiking trip to the area. The climbing (sport, trad & bouldering) is at around 1600 masl so it's a decent destination in the summer.

Uriah 15 Jun 2016

In reply to Removed User:

I read 'several desperate pitches'.

jazzyjackson 15 Jun 2016

In reply to UKC News:

3 pieces of gear for 40m of 8b! oofft. This would make a great subject for a short film.

bensilvestre 15 Jun 2016

In reply to UKC News:

Excellent stuff

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15 Jun 2016

In reply to jazzyjackson:

Yeah, that gear... yikes!!

keith-ratcliffe 15 Jun 2016

In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:
That picture of the gear is really interesting - it is not often that a climber posts such a picture. It looks like the karabiners were taped to the quickdraw to make them stiffer. Is there a reason for this? Also the slider has a long extender with what looks like padding on it - why do that?

humptydumpty 15 Jun 2016

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Looks like there's a screamer on the slider, presumably because it might reduce the chances of it ripping or breaking in a fall. The tape on the krabs looks like it would stop cross-loading, and perhaps slings coming unclipped in a fall. None seems that weird to me, but maybe he could have used lockers as well.

chrishedgehog 15 Jun 2016

In reply to UKC News:

I suspect there are sport routes out there that could have been done in this minimal style - but weren't! Nothing but admiration for this style of ascent.