OK don't get me wrong I'm splitting hairs here and I do like the torque nuts I just don't think some of the advantages toted are actually that valid.
Reading this article
http://rockclimbingcompany.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/dmm-torque-nuts-why-they-...
I own both rockcentrics and torques - I'd don't buy the following arguments:
"The reason for this is that Wild Country changed the angles on the side and introduced a more continuously curved shape, especially on the convex sides. By doing this you lose an important pivot point from which the cam action is instigated. What the Torque nuts achieve is a combination curves and pivot points which allow the nut to cam correctly. "
I don't really buy this. Hexes that require camming action to stay in are generally in fairly parallel cracks. For this to occur both oppositing sides need good contact. The camming action is created by attempting to force the hex to rotate towards the line of the fall. Generally the hex cant really move much and the pivot point against the near side of the rock crack to the load on the hex, isn't really going to change much once loaded be it a rounded face (rockcentric) or a corner (torque nut etc).
I think the rockcentrics win here on two points:
- Firstly the rounded shape allows the hex to perform well with good contact across a wider range of crack angles (in the same way that rounded modern nuts tend to work better than moacs) and helps avoid the case where the hex sits on a corner / edge on one side of the hex.
- Also the rounded shape of the rockcentrics if anything tends to create a better camming action. Take a look at the first picture in the article linked above of the yellow rockcentric. If anything the curved edge moves the lower pivot point back in the crack (as compared to a torque nut in the same placement), this creates a better camming action when the yellow sling is pulled as more of the force of the fall will be pivoted on to the walls of the crack
"You will notice that Torque nuts have a significantly better camming expansion than (rockcentrics) "
Whilst this is obviously true, I don't think its a very useful advantage. Generally a good hex placement in not too far off parallel crack wants the opposing sides in good contact with the rock and not sitting on corners. If you place a hex so that its sitting on corners on both opposing faces (ie expanding past the edges being in contact) and you are relying on the camming function of the hex to stay in, its more likely to rattle out of the placement when you climb above it..
Post edited at 09:51
