UKC

UKC FitClub week 483

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 Dandan 19 Jun 2016
Morning FitClubbers!

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=643571

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Pysche video for the week: This was linked over on t’other channel, it’s super psyche-worthy for me because it is a bunch of amazing routes at exactly the grade range I am aiming for currently. No 9b first ascents, just some incredible looking 7’s and 8’s in Australia: vimeo.com/170461426


Last Weeks Posters:

AJM - Millimetric progress, nice terminology! More muggy grease action this week? It’s not really let up has it?
Si dH - Resting is a mysterious science isn’t it, you might feel like you are resting but you are actually just sitting there draining energy. Glad you found a solution there.
Emily - My advice worked? That can’t be right… Is it inconceivable that you are now a serial V2 flasher?
Hokkyokusei - A month in Peru, sounds incredible, glad to hear you are fit and ready for it!
Ian Bell - What do you do in your 90 min strength and conditioning session?
Ally Smith - You mention weight loss strategy, then I watched that instagram video, where are planning on losing the weight from?!
Hms - Good volume despite the distractions, that UCR 7b sounds kind of stupid…
Humptydumpty - How is Traverse of the Dogs coming along?
Tyler - Local swamp sounds like a pain in this weather, my local may be small but it’s deep inside a leisure centre so is kind of insulated from the worst of it.
Dandan82 - How’s those antagonists coming along…?
Heelhookofglory - Riding through floods? Sounds, er, interesting!
Planetmarshall - Training training training, did you get stuck in?
Nick Russell - 4 days outside, my envy is hard to express...
Just Tintin - Enforced rest days are the worst. Hope it picks up soon for you
TonyB - The heat (or mugginess) seems to be getting to a lot of people, hope this week was better?
Biscuit - greasy 6c+ laps, certainly doesnt sound like a whole lot of fun! Tell all about your better week this week.
Mattrm - No motivation for Navigation or just in general? Never helps to force it, the motivation will come eventually.
OP Dandan 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Can anybody do the stats next week?
I'm off to a wedding on Saturday and i'm hoping to be in no fit state to operate a laptop in the morning...
 TonyB 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

I can do the stats next week, but it won't be until later in the evening as (hopefully) I'll be in the Peak on Sunday.
 Tyler 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
M: Rest
T: Depot, short session, problems
W: Yoga
T: Yoga then Depot. Did the new reds on the comp wall, managed all bar one.
F: Rest
S: Kilnsey, poor warm up on WYSIWYG then a quick go on Dominatrix, it soon became apparent that it was going to be too busy so went on Dead Calm which was strangely quiet, decided to strip DC as there was a hard move I didn't really have time to work. Had a go at Visitation but bottled the clip and then did it next go.
S: Woke up knackered (not used to climbing two days on these days), after stick clipping up the wrong route managed Cruising for a Bruising third go which I was pleased about, don't normally do 7b+ in UK in a session (it's soft!). Anyway, new crag, 3 star classic ticked, felt competent (navigational issues aside) and back at cars just as the heavens opened
Post edited at 18:54
 Si dH 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Cheees Dan. A frustrating week for me. I was mostly off work and got a few climbing sessions in around family stuff, but conditions were rubbish earlier in the week and then when they got better I just couldn't get things to click.

Ive rejigged my goals to just be everything I want to achieve in 2016 as conditions are forcing a re-ordering of them in the short/medium term.

2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- 8a

M: wall session - my first in 2-3 months! Actually went well. I did the most recent climbing unit comp on my own and scored 241, which is my second best comp score and compared fairly well with my friends who did it on the night. My shoulder was aching by the end but only because of a specific aggravating move that I should have avoided - otherwise it was fine.
T: afternoon session on Eastwood only because I had the time free and nothing else to do. Conditions were hot and humid and iwas tired, enough said.
W: Afternoon at Tremeirchion. Did Flag of Iron (f6C) and Lone Wolf Right Hand (f7A+). Tried the moves on 36 Chambers for quite a while but it's pretty hard and it was way too hot for the size of the crimps.
T: rest
F: Eastwood in the morning. Good session and should have done it. Fell off trying to match the crimp rail right at the end...argh! Landed on my ass in the mud. If conditions had been better it might have gone, who knows. It was a bit warm.
S: rest.
S: Eastwood in the very early morning - I woke early and decided to take advantage of cooler temps before the day got going. Was warming up at the crag by 6am. Again, should have done it but proceeded to fail on my first go in the same place as Friday. Felt like I hadn't tried hard enough. Then had 3 goes where I just made silly mistakes. It has started getting stressful - going to take a break from it. This afternoon I met some mates at Stoney and top roped a new 7c that has just been put up. It was ok but very sharp and very sequency. Won't be rushing back for it.

Injury catalogue: left index fingerand shoulder no change.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 0lb. Eaten fairly badly thisnweek though.

Si
Post edited at 18:58
 AJM 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> AJM - Millimetric progress, nice terminology! More muggy grease action this week? It’s not really let up has it?

Cheers Dan. The wall was a little better this week, but the weekend less so.

Monday - bunch of pull-ups I think. It was either Monday or Tuesday!
Tuesday - rest
Wednesday - rest, I think?
Thursday - wall. Double aerobic funsies. Managed to get pretty pumped, focused mostly on the circuit board, flashed the two easier circuits, fell off a few moves from the end of the next one up and then interspersed "1-on-2-off" on the second half of it with a few more redpoint attempts. Felt like a decent session.
Friday - drive to Cornwall.
Saturday - Bosi. Greasy to start, which didn't kick things off well - backed off a bold HVS because the little round crimps were grim and I didn't fancy decking out. Did p1 of Beowulf, after much faff committing to the traverse right (4c, they say? Really?). MrsAJM had a torrid time following it so we abbed off. I sat and sulked at how rubbish I was climbing and how I was wasting what had by then turned into a lovely day, then we went and had a cream tea and a BBQ which helped.
Sunday - woke up to sea fog and drizzle. Trafficy journey home. Just done a foot on campus session. Mixed bag. I've got the top end score I had in Chulilla, which is less good than Wildside but not too bad, and the AnCap I had in February for Wildside. What I don't have, really, is very much in the middle. Still, the plan calls for much fitness training between now and August so hopefully I can turn that around.

MrsAJM is keen to get some pre-Burren mileage in this week after work, and I'm out at the weekend, so hopefully between that and some indoor stuff I can put in another solid week.
 TonyB 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> TonyB - The heat (or mugginess) seems to be getting to a lot of people, hope this week was better?

Yes definetly a better week. I feel that I've been slack about training and this week was more structured.

Monday - hard circuits long rests. Not a great session but felt good to be training again. Followed by continuity.
Tuesday - Bouldering at the Climbing Unit in Derby, Fun session with my wife. The route setting feels quite different from Loughborough and it's good to mix things up a bit. Focused on steep problems.
Wednesday - short bouldering session + conditioning
Thursday - short circuits/short rests (great session as good as any previous one), followed by short bouldering session, and even though I was tired, I managed a problem that had previously eluded me.
Friday rest

Sat and Sun (sessions 7 and 8 on Aberration). The route is proving more difficult than I anticipated. After a great 2nd session, I really thought that it would have been possible to have done in 3 or 4 sessions, but no way.

Sat session was short. I think only three tie ins including a warm up. I managed to get a new high point (not really highpoint as the route traverses) one move further in. In the afternoon I went to the Roaches with my wife and 2nd some trad upto VS. Really fun and not strenuous.

Sun. Back on Aberration. After a bolt to bolt warm up I gave it another 5 goes, all getting to yesterdays highpoint but no further. I'm pleased that this new highpoint is becoming solid, but really frustrated to suddenly find linking one move further is so troublesome. Others climbing at the cliff commented that I would do better in stiffer shoes. This wasn't something I'd considered but at the moment I'm willing to try anything. This evening I need to do some conditioning as I'm behind with that.

Aims for the week. Keep up the training. Grow some skin and get back on Aberration. I think it is worth carrying on with, as despite the slow progress, I am making progress.
 hms 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. Haven't tried that 7b again yet - think I will be doing a modified first move if I do go back to it. Extremely stressful week, but got some reasonable sessions interspersed. Sadly UCR's circuit board is out of commission as the panels are being replaced so missed out on my usual circuit thrash.

M - cycle commute.
T - Cycle commute. Fingerboard session in evening but somewhat curtailed due to supporting D2's revision. Shoulder rehab.
W - Cycle commute. Core session in evening, plus shoulder rehab.
T - Cycle commute. UCR in evening. 14 in pairs & 3s, including 2 goes on a nails hard 7a - the guy who set it doesn't know his own strength!
F - TCA, mainly trying the remaining oranges (1 more tick) and the new blacks (6a+ to 6c, with precious little at the low end!). Did 5 blacks plus close on 2 more. Few circuits to end - the new 7a circuit is a joke, I got stuck on move 5-6! New 6b circuit is horrid.
S - fairly stressful day retreiving D1 plus her mountain of clobber from Uni for the very last time.
S - TCA with D1, whose skin gave up laughable quickly. Did the other 2 blacks, plus got high on a couple more. Tried the 7a circuit again and still absolute can't do move 5-6. Put the rest together in long links but it is indecently hard.

This week promises to be just as stressful as last week was, plus the exam spacing rather puts the boot in for too many sessions. I will be so glad when it is all over, it is doing my head in!
 biscuit 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan, thanks for your efforts.

I finally got on The Bulge. First time actually, seriously, trying an 8a. It's a beast of a route but has totally inspired me. I was buzzing for about 3 days after.

Half of the route is an easy (but awkward) groove to a knee bar rest under a small roof. Then into the crux sequence, with poor feet on a perpendicular wall, big moves and an awkward throw from a gaston. Then a poor recovery hold and on through wildly steep terrain to a really big throw to finish. The holds in this section are big, complex and just a bit too slopey on the edges. The final mahoosive throw also needs accuracy and is a well known heart breaker.

The but I'm struggling with is coming out of the knee bar and getting established.

I'm back there today and will concentrate on this and starting to get the top wired.

I've got roughly 3 mths to get this so the first couple will be beating myself up on the route and AnCap training a couple of times a week. Hopefully by then I'll have come into decent shape and get more than the three goes I did last week. The third was pretty poor as well. After that AnPow for the peak. Then smash it and then start uni. Sorted! Got lots of intermediate process, performance and outcome goals to be using to measure the tiny progress I may make each visit.

Had a routes session on Wednesday. Was still feeling beaten up from Monday but felt good when I got going. 6a,b,c+ and 7a all steep and onsight. Then did a 7b in 3 goes- should have been 2 as I got in a faff over clipping position for the last bolt and took a whipper.

Needed a 3rd session but yesterday I felt really tired and achy. I think this was diet related. If I eat too much wheat I get very lethargic and I'd been on pizza and breakfast butties the day before.

No more of that now. I'm on the 8a send train and need discipline.

Slightly tweaks elbows today - but I think that's because I arm wrestled the entire comp squad at the wall yesterday, then some staff too. Testosterone was up, what can I say 😕

 Si dH 20 Jun 2016
In reply to biscuit:
Question for the experts...

I'm considering doing some actual training to maximise my anaerobic performance over the next couple of months (rather than just climbing lots, which worked brilliantly for bouldering/strength.) Considering Eastwood Traverse, the problem I have by the end is very much 'power out' rather than pump. Therefore I am sure it is anaerobic performance I need to improve, rather than aerobic.
What I'm less sure of is whether I have a capacity shortfall or whether I could get more out of my current ancap by doing some anpow training.
I figure that if the stuff I've been doing the last few months (endless 'redpoint' attempts mostly on boulder traverses) effectively constuitutes anpow, then I probably have little more to gain there and need to do aome ancap. But if it doesn't, then 4-6 weeks of proper anpow training could make a difference.

So the question is this: what energy system am I training when I am climbing hard boulder traverse repeatedly, like Moffatrocity or Eastwood? Generally they last between 40 and 60 seconds (depending on how far I get) when climbing fast ie when the moves are already 'wired'. The moves are all hard ie you could probably break them down into multiple v4-6 problems with no rests.

And as a supplementary, on Arch Enemies and Wright's traverse, what is the equivalent? These both constitute around a minute of hardish but ok climbing (lots of v2-3ish) followed by very steep shakes, and then a hard sequence, taking about another 30 seconds. By the time i fail on Arch Enemies I am pumped but not hugely; there is some power out going on too.

Rests between all of the above have been approx 30 minutes to ensure complete recovery.

Thanks!
Post edited at 07:27
 Si dH 20 Jun 2016
In reply to biscuit:

> Slightly tweaks elbows today - but I think that's because I arm wrestled the entire comp squad at the wall yesterday, then some staff too. Testosterone was up, what can I say 😕

Brilliant, the best injury cause I've seen in a while!
 AJM 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Si dH:

> So the question is this: what energy system am I training when I am climbing hard boulder traverse repeatedly, like Moffatrocity or Eastwood? Generally they last between 40 and 60 seconds (depending on how far I get) when climbing fast ie when the moves are already 'wired'. The moves are all hard ie you could probably break them down into multiple v4-6 problems with no rests.

I'm going to guess its not AnCap: the length is about right for AnCap but the difficulty is far too high and the rests far too long to resemble any form of AnCap training session. And hard redpoints, albeit of short "routes", are usually thought of as power endurance somewhere (very P end given the sort of problem).

But in reality its a spectrum not distinct bands so theres going to be a contribution towards both.

Be interested to see what Ally says mind you.

> And as a supplementary, on Arch Enemies and Wright's traverse, what is the equivalent? These both constitute around a minute of hardish but ok climbing (lots of v2-3ish) followed by very steep shakes, and then a hard sequence, taking about another 30 seconds. By the time i fail on Arch Enemies I am pumped but not hugely; there is some power out going on too.

I remember Tom telling me that high AnCap was good for routes where you're trying to do hard moves out of rests (and actually a lot of my hardest routes - Latino, Ashes, Low Blow to name a few - have been of that style, which fits with quite a high background AnCap), so I'm going to suggest its that, combined potentially with a need to get fitter to better recover at the shakeouts.
 biscuit 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Si dH:
And I only lost one and that was left handed versus a leftie

I'll grow up one day.
 Ally Smith 20 Jun 2016
In reply to biscuit:

Morning Biscuit; sort your feet out and the bit exiting the Bulgette won't feel like the crux - make sure you use the holds on the left of the wall too.

There is also a little trick for the move out right - gaston out left to a small RH hold, then swap LH into an undercut and move your RH again to the better hold.
OP Dandan 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me, I still haven't got back into the swing of full on training, but I'm pretty sure I know why. I've had on-off stomach pain for the last 3 or 4 weeks and it was really starting to worry me, I went into full hypochondriac mode, convinced I was going to die young and leave a beautiful corpse, but after a reassuring chat with the doctor and some blood results showing that there isn't an alien incubating inside me, it turns out I most likely have mild gastritis which seems to be clearing up with Antacids. Phew.
Anyway, that whole debacle was definitely soaking up my motivation so I'm hoping to crack on with a little more joie de vive this week.

M: Indoor boulder; In an attempt to pretend I was training, I had a couple of goes at the 100 move circuit that ascends in difficulty as it goes up, apparently doing 1-100 is equivalent to f7b, but move 92-93 is a complete stopper.
There are now 3 panels of new routes so I had a play with those, flashed everything on one panel V0-V6 which was pleasing. Got a steep V7 and made progress on the V8+ too.

T: Nothing, got stuck at work until 7 due to Midlands traffic chaos

W: Indoor routes; One panel of new routes appeared, but they have replaced 6b+, 7b, 7b+ with 6b, 7a, 7a+, so now there are no routes between 7a+ and 7c, hmm. Tried to repeat the 8a but didn't quite manage it, it doesn't bother me, I've definitely slacked off for a few weeks so I can work on it.

T: Nothing, drove home early for blood test in the morning.

F: DIY club, finally started the hallway wallpapering!

S: Portland, the Cuttings; I got some new beta for Fighting Torque (8a) so thought I should go and check it out, I've not been on the route in a couple of years. I definitely prefer this new sequence, its more direct as opposed to going up and right which has a part on horrible smeary feet which I really disliked. The right hand version also overlaps holds with the next route over which never really sat right with me. Need a clip stick to work the last of the hard moves, it is a snatch to a small pocket somewhere in a crozzly face so it's pretty tiring to find it when you take a whip every time you have a grab for it. It's a strange route, some people call it soft, some people say it's stiff, but no one can decide if the direct or the right version is the stiff one or the soft one! Maybe it's horses for courses, I'm going to pick the line I like and take 8a for it like everyone else.

Also repeated Live by the Sword (7a+) twice for Mrs Dandan to have a go, this route took me ages to tick but felt super steady this time, I think it's down to my much improved footwork, the crux holds felt massive as I think I was putting a lot more weight confidently through my feet. A guy even came over as he felt he had to tell me how easy I made it look! We got chatting about other 7's on the island, nice guy.

Without a clip stick, I decided to move on, and gave Sign of the Vulcan (7b+) another couple of hits, I'm not one to blame conditions but it really was greasy, there was rain in the air most of the day and it was humid, so I greased off a sharp crimp! No cigar but I think it's just a case of hitting it when fresh, the sequence is fine, it's just powerful. I realised I had already done 6a, 7a+, 8a dog (tiring), 7a+ before having two goes at it!

Good day all in, no big ticks but some pleasing progress I think, I'd like to get back to Torque in the next few weeks while it's fresh, just need to find something to keep Mrs Dandan interested, she didn't get on with Live by the Sword.

S: DIY Club, finished the stairs and landing wallpapering!

Last weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions - Tick
10x10 second free handstands - 0/10 rubbish!
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed - Nope

Next weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
make progress on V8+ problem -
Begin power phase for Kaly -

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 7/2
Get back on Fighting Torque -

LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
 Ally Smith 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> Ally Smith - You mention weight loss strategy, then I watched that instagram video, where are planning on losing the weight from?!

I'm not wanting to lose lots, just a bit of lard off my stomach. 2kg would be good.

Last/Next week’s goals:
2x rehab sessions. Tick – repeat – use the spikey ball more for massage
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – fail - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad! – fail - sack this off now
1x an-pow – need to get some zing back.
2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar – tick – Do aero-power taper test via FoC this week - tick - data not convincing yet.
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – once only again – more spare time this week

June goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
2x week aero-power
<75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go (75.9kg)
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress

Complete >3 from the following:
Middle third, 8a – bypassed/ticked on the way to;
Start to high Break, 8a+ - tick
Man with a Gun, 7c+/8a
Bullet, 8a+
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Waddage, 8b

Week 25:
M - FoC aero-power test; max 276, bottomed out at 92s. Curve a bit pointy. Shoulder semi-grumbly, but only in a DOMS kinda fashion. Lots of press-ups, 2x50 sit ups. 2x100 crunchies.
T - London daytrip. Felt super grotty on the way home, puked and pooed and had an early night
W - Unsurprisingly feeling a bit wiped out. CyL after work. Took a while warming up, doing some boulders up to 7A+, getting the beat wrong and trying far too hard for the grade. Got the ladder and big line of pads out and explored high break. Did it in 3 without much fuss, including a link into the drop down and across Bend. Had a RP of Middle 3rd, but didn’t latch the crimp pocket for exiting the cross-over correctly and blew it. Pulled back on and went to start of high break. Need to get on RP now…?
T - More $hit news from work. Even got flak for sharing it on FB – jeeps. Great tonic seeing the lady again in the evening; Thursday night yoga is so much harder than Tuesday, but got similar commendation as Tyler from our instructor “nice one” (first time getting my head on my knees)
F - Early start for more FoC before work. Didn’t work out quite as planned, with a marginally higher top score, but steeper decline down to an-cap level of 61s. Sometimes I don’t understand this energy systems malarky! Press-ups to finish. Evening with the lady.
S - Lazy day; pancake breakfast then off-road Segway safari, with big pub meal to finish.
S - Kilnsey. LBW (7b+) - bit of a harsh warm-up, Man With A Gun (7c+)/Bullet (8a+) 4 tie-ins. Best effort ground to 2nd to last clip on MWAG (we commented that this would easily be 8a in Chulilla!) Bullet crux now feeling much more doable. Old E4 6b/new 6c+ (Achilles Heel (Original) (6c+)) to warm-down.








In reply to Dandan:

> Heelhookofglory - Riding through floods? Sounds, er, interesting!

Cheers Dan. Yep it was... interesting... and very wet! Type-2 fun

A more mixed week this week and got 2 climbing sessions in so I'm really happy. Feel so much better when I'm mixing my training with climbing. I managed all but one bike training sessions this week as well so a really tough week. I might have to drop 1 or 2 bike sessions to accommodate climbing but whatever it takes to be happy!

Mon: Rest
Tue: 18 mile MTB sweetspots
Wed: Rest
Thu: Indoor bouldering. Was pretty hot and sticky so couldn't really attempt much hard stuff but nice to be back on it.
Fri: 13 mile MTB recovery ride
Sat: 14 mile MTB, 3 hour walk around Edale / Kinder, 1 hour indoor bouldering. Hard day but really enjoyed it! Bouldering session was great. Felt tired so decided not to push it too hard but ended up climbing really well and doing some nice go-ey moves. Finished with a session on the Moon board. Easy session my back side!
Sun: 13 mile MTB trail ride. Fun fun fun! Then day at Catton Park horse event with family.

Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 2–3x 2/3 TICK!
Continue bike training where I can as long as I can still get some climbing in. TICK!
Go climbing! TICK!

STGs:
Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit 0/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Attend skiing lesson on 29th June
Lead 1x Diff before July 18th
Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 0/8

MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Get competent at skiing

LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
Do a Scottish skiing trip
Winter III

BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Winter V
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
Kili
Elbrus (and ski back down)
 humptydumpty 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

STGs (last week):
* yoga or alternative 4 times [FAIL - only managed 3]
* run for 1hr [TICK!]
* 5 days climbing [TICK!]

STGs (next week):
* try the whole of Travessera dels Gossos


MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall [DONE]
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390 [FAIL]
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]

MTGs (end of August):
* get fit for the alps


LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed)

BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)


M: AM run & climb. Started looking at Travessera dels Gossos. First 24m is doable, then it gets very crimpy. PM yoga
T: AM run (4 peaks, 73 mins), PM yoga
W: AM run, climb. ITLB pain at work. PM tai chi, slackline
T: nothing!
F: climb (multipitch)
S: climb (sport - 6a, 6a+; dogged 6b)
S: climb (trad!!)


Somehow one of the most tiring weeks I've had for a while. Felt like shit all weekend - fell asleep at the crag on Saturday, and Sunday had a reminder of what climbing on gear feels like - spent an hour leading a single pitch of V+! Also feeling the lack of yoga in my shoulders - should definitely be doing rehab if alternatives don't happen.

Sadly not going to hit my end of June goal for ticking more routes in St Benet - really need to find a climbing partner who relishes the thought of conglomerate offwidths, which has proved (un)surprisingly difficult.
 Ian Bell 20 Jun 2016
In reply to heelhookofglory:

STG = another 7a+ by end of June. If possible get back to Llanymynech for a day and finish off the 7b by end of June as well.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40

M – c1 hour fingerboard repeaters (7 on, 3 off). Repeat V5 link up boulder (much easier this time). V3 ish circuit in the circuit room (3 laps of reds). Started working the V4 circuit (V4 for 1 lap).

W – c1 hour fingerboard, 10 sec weighted max hangs

T – 90 mins strength and conditioning. Its 3 sets of the same exercise back to back. 1 set is 30 press ups of various kinds, some theraband, bicep/tricep/shoulder weights, pistol squats, calf raises and 4x1min various planking / sit ups. Usually feel fairly dead afterwards!

F – c90 mins of various campus board exercises. Can actually just about foot off campus a few rungs worth now which I never used to even be close to so I think the fingerboarding is doing something.

Sat / Sun – good son duties and back for fathers day.

Unfortunately work / fathers day overcame training a bit this week but hopefully peak busyness has passed for now so I can get on it next week. STG is looking a bit dodgy but hopefully can get out 1 day next weekend and eyeing a trip to Llanymynech first weekend of July if not last weekend of June.
OP Dandan 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Ian Bell:

Oh, is that Robin's strength and conditioning session? Sounds very familiar!
 Ian Bell 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

yep that's the one, following one of his training plans at the moment.
 Nick Russell 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> Nick Russell - 4 days outside, my envy is hard to express...

Well, that is including a 3-day weekend, it's easier to get outside when not working. Not as much this week, but had a great weekend in the Lake District!

M - 10km run
T - Redpoint. Disappointed to find the comp wall stripped for a reset. Had a go on some other walls for a change. Mint 7b next to the comp wall has a pig of a last move.
W - 5km run, core.
T - Bouldering, TCA. Working my way around the new black (V3-V5) circuit.
F - Rest
S - Bouldering at St. Bees. Beautiful place! Highlight was sending Hueco Crack (f7A) at the end of the day.
S - Walk up Red Pike from Buttermere. Cut short by weather.

STG
  • Get on Sunset Buttress and/or Spacehunter Wall before the summer restrictions. Still a couple of weeks left...
  • Get back on some trad! Planning to get back to N Wales this weekend
  • Get some core back. Felt so sore after a very mild session last week

    MTG
  • Sub-90 in Bristol half in September. One of my friends who beat me in the 10k has just informed me he's entered... better get training!
  • Start working through my ticklist of E4s. Star Wars (E4 5c), Resurrection (E4 6a), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Right Wall (E5 6a), ...

    LTG
  • Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
  • Get my act together and organise a trip to Orkney. Summer 2017?

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  • Black Bean Yeah, it's been in the back of my mind since that video of Arnaud Petit, so I might as well put it down here
  •  Emily 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    > Emily - My advice worked? That can£t be right£ Is it inconceivable that you are now a serial V2 flasher?
    Thanks Dandan. It is possible, but I think I wasn't the only one declaring the red set an easy one this time round. Fairly good week this week, lovely weekend in the Lake District.

    Monday - nothing (scheduled to give blood, got rejected ).

    Tuesday - climbing at Redpoint. Mostly around 6a-6a+, didn't try anything particularly hard. Some bouldering after.

    Wednesday - nothing.

    Thursday - bouldering at TCA. Managed to do quite a few more of the oranges (V1-3) even though I thought I'd already done most of the ones I had a chance on.

    Friday - run, 6.2km in 31:11.

    Saturday - bouldering at St Bees Head on the Lake District coast. Beautiful day in an awesome place! I had not really been outdoor bouldering before and massively enjoyed this. Didn't think I'd be able to do any of the problems, but I could! Day only marred slightly when, after finishing climbing, I stupidly slipped over while paddling and sliced up my right foot on the rocks.

    Sunday - walk up Red Pike from Buttermere. Bailed out of a longer intended loop: between the grim weather and my slightly lacerated foot, the shorter walk was enough.

    Short term (Jun)
    • do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?
      • going outdoor bouldering ought to be good for this, right? I was surprisingly OK climbing above the mats

    Medium term (Jun, Jul, Aug)
    • maintain weight in 56-58kg range
      • 59.1kg, down 0.2
    • figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
      • still doing a little bit of running, but should probably focus more...
    • have another play on Pearl Harbour
    • go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
      • yes, bouldering was really good for this
    • have fun on early July holiday (going somewhere in or near the south of France)

    Maybe someday
    • redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
    • redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
    • lead a VS???

    Post edited at 10:39
    In reply to biscuit:

    > Cheers Dan, thanks for your efforts.

    > I finally got on The Bulge.......
    > Then into the crux sequence, with poor feet on a perpendicular wall, big moves and an awkward throw from a gaston. Then a poor recovery hold and on through wildly steep terrain to a really big throw to finish.

    Rest assured that the part of the route that is worrying you is more awkward than actually hard; no matter how it feels on first acquaintance. The exit from the corner onto the rib is one of those sequences that initially feels very tenuous and untoward but one session it will just "click" and becomes (almost) steady.

    Once you get the knack, the received crag wisdom seems reasonable - that the route is maybe F7b+ from the ground to a shake-out below the final steepness, then a V4/5 boulder problem (the difficulty of which degrees in large part on if your hands fit the "bowling ball" pocket cluster).
     Cyan 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    Afternoon all, thanks for doing the stats Dan. Had an awesome week on Skye, currently sofa-bound...

    Mon - Rest (I think).
    Tues - Possibly core and pressups, can't remember and didn't write it down
    Wedns - Wall. Footless boulder, laps on long boulder problem, hung out and did a bit more bouldering afterwards. Pretty broken.
    Thurs - Rest.
    Fri - Rest/travelled up to Inverness, the sleeper train is great!
    Sat - On to Skye, short walk pm.
    Sun - 38km road bike, walked about 8 miles pm.
    Mon - Rest. Attempted to spot otters. Lots of seals, which look surprisingly like otters from a distance. Whiskey tasting.
    Tues - 84km road bike round N peninsula in glorious sunshine, over the Quiraing and back. Nick is no longer allowed to plan routes unsupervised.
    Wedns - Rest/rain.
    Thurs - Walked round the coast from Elgol (4 hours-ish). More rain.
    Fri - Wandered around ruined castle/beach.
    Sat - The Dubhs Ridge starting and finishing from Glen Brittle. 13 hours!! Amazing route and perfect weather.
    Sun - Legs totally dysfunctional. Faffed about for a bit before heading home.

     biscuit 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Cheers Ally. It's deffo the feet I need to sort. The break was wet today so looked at the top.

    Is your beta for coming up and out of the roof or moving right ending up at the good rh flake after the roof before setting off up the steep stuff?
    In reply to biscuit:

    Not that you've asked, but you might find the following excerpt from my epic Yorkshire Sport beta sheet not entirely useless. Although, I accept that there is every chance it will make no sense to anyone other than me.... but you never know.

    Incidentally, I was on Cold Steal over the weekend for the first time in two years - I was so bewildered and had so little recollection that I was reduced to dangling up the route, reading from my beta sheet, trying to match bad descriptions with actuality!

    Climb Bulgette to undercuts, get first [clip] of overhang, hands-off rest bridging (head bent forward into corner) then:

    High wide bridge: RF on small ticked smear; RH to crimp next to slot crack; LH to crimp and bump LF on high rubbered edge; bump RH into slot crack ; extracate LF and step it through to thin flakey foothold on right wall, RF on smear; big LH move to good flatty; RF on pockety smear near groove, LF wide bridge / drop-knee to high nobble (lip of crimp?); RH to crimp the side of the "double pocket"; LF to line of smeary pockets, match RF, [clip]; get LF in big pocket high on LHS of groove (almost under arse) and drop-knee; cross LH to undercut next to RH; slap out RH to pinch; step LF through next to RF; RF to small square smear and RF bridge back into pocket; RH to good flake sidepull; LF to small foothold above RF, then RF to even higher foothold out to RHS; [clip] and match LH; get high RF heel-hook on flat ledge; press LH on side of scoop; LF on flake and cross RH over to undercut top rim of scoop; smear up and LH in slot under lip; smear up and match crimp rail over lip - RH on best crimp. [clip - long extender] and shake out (RF on top of flake, LF on notch in crack, high and across to LHS of groove).

    Crux: smear up on small edges; crank off RH and LH to pocket; RF on rubbered smeary footledge 8" down and left of RH crimp; rock onto RF and cross RH into bowling-ball hold; LF to polished, rubbered smear to LHS; drop-knee and LH to small crimpy sidepull (~18" below jug); step RF in to LHS of crimp rail and LF to polished rubbered smear further to LHS; drop-knee again and LH to jug; walk feet through along smears to LHS; [clip]; RF on furthest polished smear )high and to far LHS) and LF flagging; RH to pinch on lip and go again - punt RH to ticked slot over roof; step LF in to small brown tongue and RF twist into bowling-ball-hold; crank LH to slopey shelf; match RH to slopey shelf; move LF up to base of jug and LH to crozzly crack hold to left of first belay bolt; RF on higher hold (either heel next to slot or RF toe on pinch under lip) ; rock forward and get gaston to RHS of belay bolt; get stood on lip and gain finishing jug next to 2nd belay bolt (can undercut beneath gaston if in extremis)..
     biscuit 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

    Cheers mate. Good to know it's awkward not hard. Once I get that I don't think it'll be too long before I get from ground through crux. The top is going to take some doing after what's come before.

    I'm still deliberating over the bowling ball and how best to take it.

     biscuit 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

    Wow! I'll check the detail out later. Thanks. I'm sure it'll make sense somewhere. Cheers.
     Si dH 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to AJM:

    > I'm going to guess its not AnCap: the length is about right for AnCap but the difficulty is far too high and the rests far too long to resemble any form of AnCap training session. And hard redpoints, albeit of short "routes", are usually thought of as power endurance somewhere (very P end given the sort of problem).

    > But in reality its a spectrum not distinct bands so theres going to be a contribution towards both.

    > Be interested to see what Ally says mind you.

    Cheers Andy. So when you say you think it's probably not training ancap because the difficulty and rest period are too high, but maybe more like the power end of power endurance training, what does that mean in energy systems? Anpow? Something else?
     Climbthatpitch 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Hi all

    First time posting but need to get organised and actually stick to some training and not just eating pizza and drinking cider (even though it is very enjoyable). I thought posting on here with the font of ukc training knowledge might give me the inspiration to actually stick to it.

    Last weeks goals
    Lose weight - drop from 85kg to 84kg - Fail still 85kg

    Next week STG
    Lose weight drop from 85kg to 84kg

    MTG Sept 2016
    Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
    Lead 1 VS route

    LTG winter 2016/2017
    Get experience in Scottish winter

    BHAG
    Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
    Orion Face Direct (V 5)

    Monday - core and antagonistic
    Tuesday - 30 min slow run
    Wednesday - core and antagonistic, 20 min fast run
    Thursday - bouldering - 4 * 5+ routes all on overhang, 4 * 5+ no rest on auto belay was going to leave it at that but was looking at the 6b on the way up and decided to try it and flashed it - was supposed to be keeping it easy
    Friday - routes 4, 4+, 5, 5+, 6a
    Saturday - rest
    Sunday - rest

    Happy training
    Lee
     AJM 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Probably AnPow in that terminology but it's the one I've always been haziest about in terms of what it means - in my head I'm most comfortable still thinking of the "Pow"s as being power endurance with P and E ends, but that's probably just me...
     Ally Smith 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to biscuit:

    Comment about the footwork easing it relate to the moves coming out from under the bulge.

    The other refer to the more vertical moves that set you up for moving over the little bulge to the semi-rest before the finishing steepness - hope that all make sense?
     Ally Smith 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Sorry Si, but describing symptoms of failure don't necessarily correlate to a specific weakness: We need data!

    However, what can be said with confidence is that it's too late to make significant advances to either aero or an-capacity.

    However, the "pows" can be topped up quickly, especially if combined with some judicial weight loss and optimisation of tactics.

    90s is a middle ground between an and aero-power, so i'd training both.
     Tyler 20 Jun 2016
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    Where do you do your FoC? Do you have a board at home
     Si dH 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to AJM & Ally:
    Fair enough, I couldn't really decide myself what it was but thought it worth a few other opinions. The logic is that if it had effectively been 'anpow' then a period of time doing extra (for the reason Ally suggests ie quicker improvements) would probably be wasted effort. However, from what you've both said and on reflection it certainly seems far enough away from being true 'anpow' that I should certainly get some benefit if I do some training properly.
    Think it's time to renew my wall membership and fit some anpow sessions in between outside bouldering, instead of using the fingerboard.

    Ps Ally what data?
    Post edited at 07:00
    OP Dandan 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to leeboy1985:

    Welcome along.
     AJM 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    > Ps Ally what data?

    I imagine he is thinking of some sort of lattice-style benchmarking, either on a fingerboard or a foot on campus setup...
     Ian Bell 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to leeboy1985:

    welcome to FitClub.
     Si dH 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to AJM:

    Ah...no idea how to measure that.
     Ally Smith 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to Tyler:

    yep - back garden campus board, but it's only 1-5 so limiting in terms of foot-off stuff. However, it's been the same set up for the last 3 years so i can easily calibrate past performances to today, e.g. i found a set of old data from March 2013 with a headline value 183s and an-cap of 46s (vs. 276s and 92s) - strong evidence for advancement of both aspects of energy systems, but no increase in absolute strength...
     Ally Smith 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to AJM:

    > I imagine he is thinking of some sort of lattice-style benchmarking, either on a fingerboard or a foot on campus setup...

    That's the badger...
     AJM 21 Jun 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Its a decay curve, basically. Foot on campus max time, then rest equal climbing time, then foc to failure, rest equal to that reps time, etc until you plateau.
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan. Another crap week last week but I'm working on it!

    M - Fingerboard
    T - rest
    W - rest
    T - Fingerboard
    F - AM physio circuits class
    PM A week too late attempt of the comp problems at Climbing Unit. 162 which would have seen me right up there this month - a very reachy set so quite low scoring for the ladies. Some blues too.
    S - Wet. Lead/boulder Wirksworth up to 6c+/V4 onsight
    S - still wet. Bimbled out to Stanton Moor and found a few dry problems up to V4 onsight. Worked a few on the Andle stone but I'm not ready for the highball landings yet so didn't push myself.

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