UKC

Traversing indoor routes

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 zimpara 19 Jun 2016
Why doesn't anyone do this? I've most certainly never had anyone bat an eye lid, sometimes leading right the way around the arena on a 50m. Anyone got into trouble?
8
 andrewmc 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Presumably your indoor wall is very quiet or you visit at unusual places. At most places at the times most climbers climb walls are busy and it is often bad enough that lines move slightly to the left or right or finish at the same loweroff as other routes. Also, most climbers like to climb routes that have been set and graded, rather than a random and probably unrepeatable set of holds (unless you have an excessive good memory).
 planetmarshall 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> Why doesn't anyone do this? I've most certainly never had anyone bat an eye lid, sometimes leading right the way around the arena on a 50m.

On a rope? Mostly because you'd be massively in the way unless the place is dead.
 summo 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> Why doesn't anyone do this? I've most certainly never had anyone bat an eye lid, sometimes leading right the way around the arena on a 50m. Anyone got into trouble?

-because someone with less experience might lead too far and run out of rope. ie can't be lower back down, without the 2nd climbing up?
-it would get in the way of everyone else
3
 climbwhenready 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Seriously?
 Oceanrower 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

I notice you don't have a favourite wall on your profile but, anyway, I call liar!
 jezb1 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara: bored again?

 Oceanrower 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Incidentally, assuming 10m up and down (or why bother with a rope) that leaves 30m to traverse round an "arena".

Not much of an arena is it with only 7.5 metres a side!
 PPP 19 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

GCC has a dedicate traverse (maybe 7 meters to the side after climbing 8m up?) on a vertical wall. The routes on that panel are not very popular.
 ogreville 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Oceanrower:

> I notice you don't have a favourite wall on your profile but, anyway, I call liar!

Good Point!

Name the wall Zimpara.

What time of day/day did you attend?

Were there any others climbing?

How long is it "right around the arena", and how high up were you before you began to traverse?

In reply to zimpara:
Hmmm - I regularly warm up by traversing at low level round my local wall but I see a bigger project here. I think that if I chose a quiet time and with the blessing of the wall manager it would be possible to complete a girdle traverse of the wall at a higher level with the in-situ protection. I look forward to reporting the ascent and invite others to revive this ancient tradition of the Girdle!
In reply to zimpara:

I once went to a wall in Brussels that was set for top roping. The ropes were prominently numbered at the top. The routes had colour coded holds and the first hold of any route had a tag that indicated which number of rope you should tie in to. Some routes traversed considerably and started well to one side of the rope anchor. This was only possible because it was a top rope wall but did allow a wider variety of route setting than is normal without rope drag or crossing issues.

I remember one route in particular. It started innocuously directly below the top rope anchor but soon you were faced with what seemed like an impossibly long reach. After a while I noticed some holds of the right colour going horizontally right. These continued all the way to the R extremity of the wall (big swing potential) where there was a manageable reach. Above the hold you reached, however, there was another impossible reach but a line of holds leading horizontally to the L extremity of the wall (more big swing potential). This continued most of the way up the wall until the traverses got a bit smaller near the top because the swing would otherwise be just too violent. In this way they created a monster stamina pitch in a wall of relatively modest height. The swings if you came off at an extremity could easily have wiped out anyone else on the wall at the time.

The wall was in a square room and there were some routes that even started on a different wall than the rope you had to use. Some of these had clear deckout near the bottom or monster slamming potential higher up. Clearly HSE issues were not as much to the forefront in Belgium in those days as they are in the UK today!
OP zimpara 19 Jun 2016
In reply to ogreville:

Maybe i just don't have a favourite.
Yes the walls were dead at the time. Nobody in their right mind would traverse a busy wall. Are you mad
1
 Oogachooga 20 Jun 2016
In reply to ogreville:

> Good Point!

> Name the wall Zimpara.

> What time of day/day did you attend?

> Were there any others climbing?

> How long is it "right around the arena", and how high up were you before you began to traverse?

Oxford brookes

1230 ish

No

2 walls

5-7m ish

Zimpara drank a large Redbull and I had a monster

Breakfast consisted of 4 rounds of toast with marmite and peanut butter. Not sure what Zimpara had, perhaps salad??

Hope this helps!

 John Gresty 20 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

I seem to remember a story about two teams doing diagonal traverses, in opposite directions, crossing in the middle, on a quiet evening at The Foundry, when asked what they were doing, they replied that they were practicing for High Tor. One team doing Debauchery, the other Delicatescant. They obviously knew what they were doing, and were known to the staff so were left to get on with it.
Does anyone know if this was true, and it did inspire me to do the same sometimes when a wall was quiet.

John

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