UKC

Last month I was crimping hard on a hold at my local gym, foot slipped and I felt a sharp pain from my middle finger down to my wrist.

Since then I rested and it seemed to get better. Was able to boulder again after a week. Have been taking it really easy until last week when I didn't warm up nearly enough and went straight into a bouldering session. I reached for a hold, caught it with the end of my middle finger and then fell and felt a really sharp pain (worse then the first time).

I've rested for a week but a couple of times each day I'll reach for something or even just stretch my hand and i get a sharp pain. The pain seems to be just above my wrist on the top side of my hand.

Anybody with a similar experience able to provide advice?

In reply to Fenda:

Don't climb for ages (a couple of months) read the numerous articles about finger injuries on UKC.

In reply to Fenda:

Rest is not always the answer, scar tissue can build and limit mobility in the long term. But rest is sometimes the answer as part if a proper rehab programme rooted in a diagnosis.

Get yourself to a physio (a lot of NHS trusts do self referral these days and the waiting time is not long). I would also suggest doing lots of reading of old threads on here and on the other channel and may be Dave MacLoed's book.

I have had several injuries over the years including several finger/wrist things and complete rest has never been useful/advised.

In reply to Fenda:

I had this the end of last year. Foot slipped with fingers in a jam and i loaded them up. The ring finger (right hand) took all the force. Never heard anything. Just knew something wasn't right. 30 mins after I had a pain in the parm of the hand about and inch lower than where the finger ends. And every now and then I'd get a sudden pulse of pain in my wrist. I had 2 weeks complete rest. And every evening I ice bathed the injured hand. Open and closing the fingers slowly. For about 15 mins. Then just let them warm up still slowly opening and closing. After the 2 weeks. I went climbing and never did anything above 6a jug fest indoors. (It was winter) and did this for the next month. If It ever felt even slightly dodgy. I'd stop. I was back to where I was in 3 months. And now . 9 months on I'm pulling harder than I ever did. Just listen to your body. Don't rush. But don't stop. And see a hand specialist if u think u need to. Good luck.
Luke.

In reply to Fenda:
My feet rarely slip climbing (thank you shoes, technique, lack of confidence and belayshonship) but I've had similar injuries through my sport history having kept several huge naughty equines! Each of my wrists have been broken multiple times in different places (thankfully, so I've avoided surgery).

Recently I've had a 'sprain' so I've used a support or bandage (equivalent of vet wrap for animals) which has proved effective.

I'm not a fan of rest: I don't know the meaning of it without a breakage: so support and tentative nursing / not over pushing it has helped.

Does it feel like a tendon or a muscle? Tendons are REALLY painful (my mom is trained (a nurse and sports physio) so knows and advises me frequently). Tendons are often as debilitating as breaks as a rule of thumb.

Any history of carpal tunnel or rsi?

Supports help me and sighting it reminds me I'm gonna feel it onsighting a sport route if I push it. Depends how you feel; if the pain extends to the wrist, support and continue GENTLY. If it's just finger - my netball days say tape up, and rest.

You may still be able to climb or Boulder some routes using different technique or routes.

Edit: punctuation. Naughty me!

Just a thank you to everyone who replied.

After about another months rest, I was able to boulder again this week. Only very easy stuff but it seems to be holding together OK. Hopefully I can ease back in to a normal climbing schedule.

In reply to Fenda:

ease in very slowly, one bad decision and you are back to square one.
Ignore the post recommending complete rest, this will not fix it

In reply to Fenda:

I'd see a climbing physio if you can do.

In reply to Timmd:

Exactly, mainly to correctly diagnose the injury and teach you a protective taping pattern.

CB