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Tips for doing Hornli Ridge

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Planning to do the Hornli ridge in early Sept. I'm reading as much info as poss but would appreciate a few tips from those who have already done it. What was the grade of climbing like, especially the section from the Solvay hut onwards? Did you take/place any trad gear or was it just slings/quickdraws and screwgates? What was the descent like - moving together or belaying/abbing off the metal ring posts? Thanks for any tips you can offer
 Tim Sparrow 21 Jun 2016
In reply to Cuillin Calling:
Martin Moran's AC guide to 4000m peaks also very useful.
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In reply to pneame:

Thanks. There were a couple of these I hadn't found yet on searches.
In reply to Tim Sparrow:

Agreed, I've borrowed a friends copy and intend to get one myself.

 pneame 21 Jun 2016
In reply to Cuillin Calling:

It's pretty iconic and draws the eye unerringly. But why not do something that's a little less congested? It used to be that September would be less crowded, but I don't think that's the case anymore.
The Alps is loaded with iconic peaks!
In reply to pneame:

Ah no problem, I was quite looking forward to a bit of extra European argy-bargy after the referendum.
 David Rose 22 Jun 2016
In reply to Cuillin Calling:

You don't need trad gear. You will probably climb the whole route without belaying at all, except perhaps on the Moseley slab. You should also be down-climbing most of it. Route finding on the way down is hard. It is very easy to get off route on to the exposed east face. You need to keep much further left (facing down) than you might think.

It's an iconic peak but a terrible, overcrowded route. Most of it is a scramble on loose rock, with some snow on the last few hundred metres. This may well come littered with human faeces. Yuk.

If you climbing at a sufficient level, the Zmutt Ridge is a far, far better route, with brilliant climbing, incredible positions and scenery, and few climbers. I wrote the AC guidebook description, so I hope it is accurate! To do the Zmutt, you need to be confident moving together on III+ ground, and you should take a few wires and cams as well as slings.
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 Peter Metcalfe 22 Jun 2016
In reply to Cuillin Calling:

Do after the Hornlihutte has closed for the season - around mid September - there's a good winter room underneath it. We did it then in perfect weather and the route was virtually empty. You'll need a stove BTW, despite what the guides' office say. Enough blankets that you won't need a bag.

As someone else said, you won't need any gear apart from some slings - the guide have put in running belay stakes above the Red Tower and fixed ropes on the harder sections.

Acclimatise - it's long and pretty high and you want to be moving fast.
Removed User 22 Jun 2016
In reply to David Rose:

Agree with all the above but I went too far left (looking out)on the way down, ended up back on the ridge too early and had to do some time consuming abs.

I belive that the Route in the Martin Moran book is pre the big rockfall, so the start is now quite different and joins the ridge much earlier, I would say its now better.

I did it second week in Jul and weather was great, only about 50 people on the route, soon got so spread out we saw no one for a large part of the route and had the summit to ourselves.

A guide recommended seocond week in Jul and it was a top tip.

For all the bad stuff your hear about the hornli we had a brilliant day on it.
In reply to Cuillin Calling:

David, Peter, Gary - many thanks for your replies. Been v busy at work so haven't had much time to reply to you and away this w/e. All your tips are v helpful and were more the sort of info I was looking for. I'll bear your suggestions in mind. cheers!

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