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North Wales sport routes

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sebbi 22 Jun 2016
Greetings Guys,

I need to get my climbing back on track, would you pls recommend some places in N Wales? I am thining about top rope/sport style, sth between VD - VS. What you say about Idwal Slabs, Tryfan or Llanberis Area Dinorwic Quarries ?

Best,
S.
 SenzuBean 22 Jun 2016
In reply to sebbi:
There's no sport anywhere near Idwal or Tryfan, and neither are particularly suitable for top-roping.
I haven't been to the slate quarries, so can't comment on there.

For easy top-roping, I'd recommend:
Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf
Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog) (Pant Ifan Upper Tier being the best place by far)
Clogwyn Cyrau (some of the little buttresses, the main wall is too big)

I'm sure there's loads more, but those are the only venues I have been to.
Post edited at 15:39
1
 Oldsign 22 Jun 2016
In reply to sebbi:

Trevor Quarry near Llangollen has a lot of sports climbing and the tiniest bit of trad.
 stp 22 Jun 2016
In reply to sebbi:

Penmaen Head has sport routes from french 5a and up. Well bolted, easy access, short routes, good rock. Great place to start climbing again.
 zimpara 22 Jun 2016
In reply to sebbi:

Anything on tryfan would be a great experience. Same for idwal. Same for anything in the pass. Get out there.
7
 deacondeacon 22 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:
Did you read the op?

In reply to sebbi:

There's lots of sport in the slate quarries, and some Trad routes that can be top roped at VS but little below this. Start by looking at Bus Stop Quarry.

There's also easy sport at Penmaenbach Quarry and at Castle Inn Quarry. Penmaenhead only has a couple of 5a's, most is 6's and above so less useful. Meliden Quarry also has some easy sport and single pitch.

For easy single pitch and top ropable Trad think about Craig Y tonnau, Barmouth slabs, Conwy mountain slab, Lion rock and Clogwyn cyrau.

 zimpara 22 Jun 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

Vdiff to VS. Yes, did I miss anything?
3
In reply to zimpara:

> Vdiff to VS. Yes, did I miss anything?

Yes..... " I am thining about top rope/sport style" .... unless you are thinking about top roping Grooved Arete or Tennis Shoe.
 john_mx 22 Jun 2016
In reply to sebbi:

Bus Stop Quarry

That's my recommendation
1
 deacondeacon 23 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> Vdiff to VS. Yes, did I miss anything?

Err yes. He's looking for recommendations of places to go that would be suitable for sport climbing or top-roping.
Tryfan and Idwal would be two of the worst recommendations you could come up with in North Wales.
sebbi 23 Jun 2016
In reply to sebbi:

Thx guys, appreciate all hints. I think I will try with Bus Stop Quarry and Never Never Land or sth else around Llanberis.
I asked about The Slabs thinking about trad, not sport of course, my mistake. Just to go there and give it a try with my Metolius hardware (finally).
 The Ivanator 23 Jun 2016
In reply to sebbi:

Some of the levels in Australia should also suit your needs "Above the Rails" and "The Sidings" have quite a number of short bolted routes at F4 and F5.
Trevor Quarry near Llangollen is not right in the mountains, but is good for gentle Sports Grades too.
Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog) Upper Tier is well suited to single pitch Trad top roping in friendly grades - often busy with outdoor centre groups though.
 ianstevens 23 Jun 2016
In reply to john_mx:


> That's my recommendation

With the caveat that you should avoid First Stop an Septuganarian (sp?). The rock quality is awful, including that with the bolts and lower offs in.
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