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It can be someone from climbing history, someone you've known/know, someone you've climbed with - in fact anyone?
However, the crux (sorry) of this thread, is that unlike usual UKC threads where people hedge their bets with several, in the spirit of the EU Referendum, you can only choose ONE!
However, the crux (sorry) of this thread, is that unlike usual UKC threads where people hedge their bets with several, in the spirit of the EU Referendum, you can only choose ONE!
3
In reply to Goucho:
My Dad who encouraged me to start walking, camping and playing in the mountains. He was no climber but I'd never have discovered climbing without him introducing me to Britain's high and remote places.
(Great thread idea BTW!)
My Dad who encouraged me to start walking, camping and playing in the mountains. He was no climber but I'd never have discovered climbing without him introducing me to Britain's high and remote places.
(Great thread idea BTW!)
4
In reply to Goucho:
A nice opportunity to thank Pete Wells , Pewe of this parish, although I had done some climbing before Pete showed me how to use ropes and knots correctly. My first route with him was Sinister at Avon Gorge, in the 60's and in the rain, probably not as polished as it is now .
A nice opportunity to thank Pete Wells , Pewe of this parish, although I had done some climbing before Pete showed me how to use ropes and knots correctly. My first route with him was Sinister at Avon Gorge, in the 60's and in the rain, probably not as polished as it is now .
3
In reply to Goucho:
I'm going to go with Tom Patey. I have no idea what he was like in real life but all his routes seem to be good value and his writing serves as a reminder that you should be having a good time.
I'm going to go with Tom Patey. I have no idea what he was like in real life but all his routes seem to be good value and his writing serves as a reminder that you should be having a good time.
4
In reply to Goucho:
[name removed] for providing inspiration, given how well she did despite being cursed with brittle knees.
[name removed] for providing inspiration, given how well she did despite being cursed with brittle knees.
14
3
1
In reply to Goucho:
Hiya,
Greatest inspiration would be Sir Ernest Shackleton and his South Expedition...not a climber but an adventurer who showed what was really possible with skill, determination and courage.
Barbeg
Hiya,
Greatest inspiration would be Sir Ernest Shackleton and his South Expedition...not a climber but an adventurer who showed what was really possible with skill, determination and courage.
Barbeg
2
1
In reply to Goucho:
Dr Charles Warren who made the first ascent of Bagirathi lll with Colin Kirkus and was expedition doctor on the 1933. 1935 and 1938 Everest Expeditions.
http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/obituary-dr-charles-warren-...
I got to know him when I was a teenager and his tales of the mountains and rock climbing in North Wales were inspirational.
Dr Charles Warren who made the first ascent of Bagirathi lll with Colin Kirkus and was expedition doctor on the 1933. 1935 and 1938 Everest Expeditions.
http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/obituary-dr-charles-warren-...
I got to know him when I was a teenager and his tales of the mountains and rock climbing in North Wales were inspirational.
2
3
In reply to Goucho: ONE!! Aw c'mon. It could have been Bonatti, Patey, Gervasutti, Whillans, Brown or Menlove Edwards(for all those dirty, depressing Welsh routes) , Tilman and Shipton. But I would go for Ed Hillary. Not for climbing Everest but for being an all round good bloke, putting loads of energy into his work with the Sherpas and up for an adventure whilst keeping a sense of perspective about the games that climbers play.
2
In reply to Goucho:
I'm going to have to break the rule... Tom Randall & Pete Whittaker (you can't separate that partnership!). Not just the insanely hard stuff they've done, but their approach to these hard things is very inspiring. Their latest blog post of the crucifix crack project - perhaps the epitome of this. I have met them back when I was a total novice, and they were very kind and good instructors. Occasionally I even use Tom's mantra on stuff that I find hard, or when I find my head drifting! ("focus on performance, not the goal")
I'm going to have to break the rule... Tom Randall & Pete Whittaker (you can't separate that partnership!). Not just the insanely hard stuff they've done, but their approach to these hard things is very inspiring. Their latest blog post of the crucifix crack project - perhaps the epitome of this. I have met them back when I was a total novice, and they were very kind and good instructors. Occasionally I even use Tom's mantra on stuff that I find hard, or when I find my head drifting! ("focus on performance, not the goal")
Post edited at 22:23
3
3
In reply to Goucho:
its got to be Gwen Moffat! what an awesome woman, she was practically the first dirt bag climber back in the 1940s when it was almost unheard of in the uk let alone for a woman, living in barns and on boats, achieving first British female guide status by using only her initials so they didnt guess her gender, and deserting from the army to go climbing. and also the fabulous Angela Soper, who I first saw soloing Pigott Stride at almscliff when well into her late 60s. And she's still climbing .
its got to be Gwen Moffat! what an awesome woman, she was practically the first dirt bag climber back in the 1940s when it was almost unheard of in the uk let alone for a woman, living in barns and on boats, achieving first British female guide status by using only her initials so they didnt guess her gender, and deserting from the army to go climbing. and also the fabulous Angela Soper, who I first saw soloing Pigott Stride at almscliff when well into her late 60s. And she's still climbing .
5
In reply to Goucho:
W.H.Murray. His 'Mountaineering in Scotland' was my climbing Bible. It’s remarkable how many climbers’ autobiographies credit Bill Murray and his writings as a major source of inspiration.
W.H.Murray. His 'Mountaineering in Scotland' was my climbing Bible. It’s remarkable how many climbers’ autobiographies credit Bill Murray and his writings as a major source of inspiration.
3
In reply to Goucho:
The classiest portfolio of new climbs, bold, technical and now enjoying a new lease of life as the most delectable highball gritstone boulder problems. The one and only John Allen, a real visionary.
The classiest portfolio of new climbs, bold, technical and now enjoying a new lease of life as the most delectable highball gritstone boulder problems. The one and only John Allen, a real visionary.
In reply to Goucho:
I guess it has to be my Dad, because he taught me how to lead in my teens and took me to The Foundry when it opened, and up some multi pitch routes in the Lake District, and a little bit earlier encouraged me to jump from Adam to Eve on Tryfan when I was 12 (because he knew I could do).
I guess it has to be my Dad, because he taught me how to lead in my teens and took me to The Foundry when it opened, and up some multi pitch routes in the Lake District, and a little bit earlier encouraged me to jump from Adam to Eve on Tryfan when I was 12 (because he knew I could do).
Post edited at 23:46
1
1
In reply to Goucho:
Chris Bonnington. The conductor of expeditions and a man thats got a drive to live life and organise something truly great. Characters like him inspire me to pick up the phone and come up with all sorts of dumb ideas.
Chris Bonnington. The conductor of expeditions and a man thats got a drive to live life and organise something truly great. Characters like him inspire me to pick up the phone and come up with all sorts of dumb ideas.
Post edited at 00:04
3
In reply to Goucho:
All things considered, it's me.
> It can be someone from climbing history, someone you've known/know, someone you've climbed with - in fact anyone?
> However, the crux (sorry) of this thread, is that unlike usual UKC threads where people hedge their bets with several, in the spirit of the EU Referendum, you can only choose ONE!
All things considered, it's me.
1
In reply to Goucho:
Charley Fell for me - with his long spidery legs and twig like arms - don't know how he get's up half the stuff he does - truly inspirational
Charley Fell for me - with his long spidery legs and twig like arms - don't know how he get's up half the stuff he does - truly inspirational
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2
1
5
In reply to Goucho:
Bill and Dave Birkett. Bills book Complete lakeland Fells http://www.abebooks.co.uk/book-search/title/complete-lakeland-fells/author/... really got me going in fell walking and was my path to climbing. Dave I have met briefly a couple of times and seen him talk twice, and found him down to earth but totally inspirationall.
Bill and Dave Birkett. Bills book Complete lakeland Fells http://www.abebooks.co.uk/book-search/title/complete-lakeland-fells/author/... really got me going in fell walking and was my path to climbing. Dave I have met briefly a couple of times and seen him talk twice, and found him down to earth but totally inspirationall.
1
In reply to Goucho:
Ron Elliott
of the YMC
who 40+ years ago said "Hey, Lad come here and let me show you how to do it properly before you end up killing yourself"
Ron Elliott
of the YMC
who 40+ years ago said "Hey, Lad come here and let me show you how to do it properly before you end up killing yourself"
1
1
In reply to Goucho:
My mum - she's never been afraid to have a go at something new. Sadly she's now too old to start climbing but she did day the other day that if she were younger she'd like a go. Awesome.
My mum - she's never been afraid to have a go at something new. Sadly she's now too old to start climbing but she did day the other day that if she were younger she'd like a go. Awesome.
1
In reply to Goucho:
Hermann Buhl - for the North Face of the Eiger (sorry!) as much as Nanga Parbat. His comeback after a year's marriage, an early ascent of the then hardest Alpine route in the world, worst conditions ever. Taking monster lobs, knowing that if he couldn't get up, chances were that all nine of them would die. Those poor Austrian brothers thinking he'd have to leave 'em to survive... but, of course, there was no way he was going to leave 'em - or anyone else, for that matter. That's what's always impressed me most of all: the ethos of not leaving people, even if it means you're probably going to die as a result.
The Nanga Parbat business (a dreadful precursor to the Messners' ordeal) still seems the stuff of horror and, if it wrecked him, well it would have wrecked anyone.
So it's ole Hermann, 'cos in climbing - in life - sometimes you just have to give it some welly. And not leave people behind.
Mick
Hermann Buhl - for the North Face of the Eiger (sorry!) as much as Nanga Parbat. His comeback after a year's marriage, an early ascent of the then hardest Alpine route in the world, worst conditions ever. Taking monster lobs, knowing that if he couldn't get up, chances were that all nine of them would die. Those poor Austrian brothers thinking he'd have to leave 'em to survive... but, of course, there was no way he was going to leave 'em - or anyone else, for that matter. That's what's always impressed me most of all: the ethos of not leaving people, even if it means you're probably going to die as a result.
The Nanga Parbat business (a dreadful precursor to the Messners' ordeal) still seems the stuff of horror and, if it wrecked him, well it would have wrecked anyone.
So it's ole Hermann, 'cos in climbing - in life - sometimes you just have to give it some welly. And not leave people behind.
Mick
7
In reply to Goucho:
Joe Brown
I'd put him in the same category as Jos Naylor for fell running. Both of whom I got to know and climbed with or ran against.
Joe Brown
I'd put him in the same category as Jos Naylor for fell running. Both of whom I got to know and climbed with or ran against.
Post edited at 15:23
1
In reply to Goucho:
Well if I can only choose one, then it's Maurizio Zanolla - Manolo. He's known as Il Mago (the Magician) for a reason.
Well if I can only choose one, then it's Maurizio Zanolla - Manolo. He's known as Il Mago (the Magician) for a reason.
In reply to Goucho:
The short list:
Fred Nicole. Quietly being a genius for the past 25 years. From early hard routes like a repeat of Wall Street in 1987, to "Bain De Sang" in 1993 and "Elfe" in 1994, to Danse Des Balrogs, Raja, Dreamtime. I watched him, 3 or 4 years ago, still crushing in Hueco, and marveled at his grace, his gentle touch on the rock, and his forearms, which eclipsed the sun.
Wolfgang Gullich. Pioneer, visionary, with accomplishments from "Riders on the Storm" to "Kanal Im Rucken". World Cups and Big Walls. He seemed to be everywhere for a couple of years.
Jerry Moffatt - because he's the bloody Picasso of rock. Genius on an intuitive level. With brashness and talent like few every had - "I like burning people off."
But if, in the spirit of your question: I can only pick one - it's Jerry. The picture of him on The Dominiator, which graced an old issue of Rock and Ice, altered my understanding of what climbing could mean in terms of difficulty. Jerry was a driving force in climbing even over here in Canada, and each time a new Climbing mag arrived in the mail, there was another article on another preposterous thing that Jerry had done. I'll always remember the picture of him soloing something at Stanage with a cast on his leg after crashing his motorbike.
I can still quote most of his statements from "One Summer" and "Real Thing".
I'm a hopeless fanboi
The short list:
Fred Nicole. Quietly being a genius for the past 25 years. From early hard routes like a repeat of Wall Street in 1987, to "Bain De Sang" in 1993 and "Elfe" in 1994, to Danse Des Balrogs, Raja, Dreamtime. I watched him, 3 or 4 years ago, still crushing in Hueco, and marveled at his grace, his gentle touch on the rock, and his forearms, which eclipsed the sun.
Wolfgang Gullich. Pioneer, visionary, with accomplishments from "Riders on the Storm" to "Kanal Im Rucken". World Cups and Big Walls. He seemed to be everywhere for a couple of years.
Jerry Moffatt - because he's the bloody Picasso of rock. Genius on an intuitive level. With brashness and talent like few every had - "I like burning people off."
But if, in the spirit of your question: I can only pick one - it's Jerry. The picture of him on The Dominiator, which graced an old issue of Rock and Ice, altered my understanding of what climbing could mean in terms of difficulty. Jerry was a driving force in climbing even over here in Canada, and each time a new Climbing mag arrived in the mail, there was another article on another preposterous thing that Jerry had done. I'll always remember the picture of him soloing something at Stanage with a cast on his leg after crashing his motorbike.
I can still quote most of his statements from "One Summer" and "Real Thing".
I'm a hopeless fanboi
4
1
In reply to shouldbebetter:
Fred Nicole, Wolfgang and Jerry, throw in Ben and you've got the top team.
At least it's aspirational. Just seems like the heroes from the 50's, 60's and 70's could have tried a bit harder.
Fred Nicole, Wolfgang and Jerry, throw in Ben and you've got the top team.
At least it's aspirational. Just seems like the heroes from the 50's, 60's and 70's could have tried a bit harder.
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Earlier and later standard bearers are no less impressive. My list is purely a by-product of the era when I cut my teeth on climbing. As a young, rabid climber, I would consume every tidbit of news I could about hard things being sent in the world. And these were the climbers which were in the news so much, their names burnt their way onto my retina like a flashbulb.
You can't ever forget being inspired.
Earlier and later standard bearers are no less impressive. My list is purely a by-product of the era when I cut my teeth on climbing. As a young, rabid climber, I would consume every tidbit of news I could about hard things being sent in the world. And these were the climbers which were in the news so much, their names burnt their way onto my retina like a flashbulb.
You can't ever forget being inspired.
1
1
In reply to Goucho:
Not a name everyone will know but most people who regularly climb at Swanage will recognise the name Tim Dunsby. Tim I would like to thank you for taking me under your wing and immersing me in the vertical world of climbing and giving me a life long love of the sport and all the different places it as taken me. If you read the I'm still climbing and loving it.
Not a name everyone will know but most people who regularly climb at Swanage will recognise the name Tim Dunsby. Tim I would like to thank you for taking me under your wing and immersing me in the vertical world of climbing and giving me a life long love of the sport and all the different places it as taken me. If you read the I'm still climbing and loving it.
In reply to Goucho:
Mark Twight
Angry, talented, self obsessed, bold, arrogant, confrontational, committed, respectful of a route and the style.
Mark Twight
Angry, talented, self obsessed, bold, arrogant, confrontational, committed, respectful of a route and the style.
1
In reply to Goucho:
My first inspiration was Don Whillans. I admired Joe Brown but Don had that aura of edginess that appealed at the time - he was blunt like the grit he climbed. I aspired to The Sloth and eventually got there and my admiration grew. I then left climbing for family for a while and came back in in the 80's. There was only one possible inspiration after watching Stone Monkey - it had to be Johnny Dawes. Though he may not now be cutting edge he still is remarkable for his concepts of movement & shapes - no-one talks like him about climbing - utter genius & mad as a box of frogs!
Interestingly none of the current climbing hotshots inspires me in the same way - Tom & Pete get closest - perhaps its the tendency to irreverance that I like.
My first inspiration was Don Whillans. I admired Joe Brown but Don had that aura of edginess that appealed at the time - he was blunt like the grit he climbed. I aspired to The Sloth and eventually got there and my admiration grew. I then left climbing for family for a while and came back in in the 80's. There was only one possible inspiration after watching Stone Monkey - it had to be Johnny Dawes. Though he may not now be cutting edge he still is remarkable for his concepts of movement & shapes - no-one talks like him about climbing - utter genius & mad as a box of frogs!
Interestingly none of the current climbing hotshots inspires me in the same way - Tom & Pete get closest - perhaps its the tendency to irreverance that I like.
3
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:
I used to think that, then I met him. Never meet your idols they nearly always disappoint.
> My first inspiration was Don Whillans.
I used to think that, then I met him. Never meet your idols they nearly always disappoint.
1
In reply to OwenM:
Hi Owen - Yes a valid point but I never met him and in some ways I am glad that I only knew the legend at a distance. The nearest I got was a lecture delivered with a pint in hand and poor slides that still had us all rapt for the 2 hour duration. I have since learnt more about him and his flaws are apparent - if I stick with his climbs and the mythology then I still admire him and I prefer it that way.
Hi Owen - Yes a valid point but I never met him and in some ways I am glad that I only knew the legend at a distance. The nearest I got was a lecture delivered with a pint in hand and poor slides that still had us all rapt for the 2 hour duration. I have since learnt more about him and his flaws are apparent - if I stick with his climbs and the mythology then I still admire him and I prefer it that way.
1
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:
i agree, Whillams appealed to me and liked a pint....like me!
Otherwise, Ron Fawcett as I remember seeing a TV show about him when I was probably about 16 and was amazed by him!
In real life I used to watch Gary Gibson at the Roaches when I was about 16 and was very impressed and inspired...
> My first inspiration was Don Whillans. I admired Joe Brown but Don had that aura of edginess that appealed at the time
i agree, Whillams appealed to me and liked a pint....like me!
Otherwise, Ron Fawcett as I remember seeing a TV show about him when I was probably about 16 and was amazed by him!
In real life I used to watch Gary Gibson at the Roaches when I was about 16 and was very impressed and inspired...
Post edited at 22:05
In reply to Goucho:
Bear grylls (cringe) I know he's not liked by many on here, and it's a bit sad, but his early born survivor series got me into the outdoors. If it wasn't for bear I'd have never abseiled,kayaked,bungee jumped, Sky dived, tried paragliding and hang gliding,spent time wild camping,met a really good bunch of people and more importantly I'd have never tried climbing, I'd still be an overweight, smoking ,couch potato with a bad back and depression, Thanks bear (double cringe) p.s I do think he's a tool now though.
Bear grylls (cringe) I know he's not liked by many on here, and it's a bit sad, but his early born survivor series got me into the outdoors. If it wasn't for bear I'd have never abseiled,kayaked,bungee jumped, Sky dived, tried paragliding and hang gliding,spent time wild camping,met a really good bunch of people and more importantly I'd have never tried climbing, I'd still be an overweight, smoking ,couch potato with a bad back and depression, Thanks bear (double cringe) p.s I do think he's a tool now though.
2
In reply to Rick Graham:
I've been struggling to meet my own criteria of just the one Rick
But when push comes to shove, it has to be Walter Bonatti.
On top of his brilliance as a climber and major historical achievement's and routes, his courage and humanity during the awful events on the Freney Pillar in 1961 were truly selfless and heroic.
I was privileged to meet him (somewhat fleetingly) at the Buxton Conference - it is a moment I will always treasure.
> Who is your inspiration , G ?
I've been struggling to meet my own criteria of just the one Rick
But when push comes to shove, it has to be Walter Bonatti.
On top of his brilliance as a climber and major historical achievement's and routes, his courage and humanity during the awful events on the Freney Pillar in 1961 were truly selfless and heroic.
I was privileged to meet him (somewhat fleetingly) at the Buxton Conference - it is a moment I will always treasure.
1
In reply to OwenM:
I spent a couple of hours drinking with him, just the two of us, in the late 70's, and he was utterly charming.
Mind you, I was probably in submissive star struck teenager mode, and I am well aware my experience of him is probably out of character
> I used to think that, then I met him. Never meet your idols they nearly always disappoint.
I spent a couple of hours drinking with him, just the two of us, in the late 70's, and he was utterly charming.
Mind you, I was probably in submissive star struck teenager mode, and I am well aware my experience of him is probably out of character
In reply to Goucho:
No one famous, but a chap a year or two older than me at school, who always seemed to be able to climb everything with ease. I think he was only actually climbing around 7a, but to a thirteen-year-old new to climbing, he was absolutely impressive with his seeming ease at climbing anything he was presented with, whilst I was struggling up Fr5+.
No one famous, but a chap a year or two older than me at school, who always seemed to be able to climb everything with ease. I think he was only actually climbing around 7a, but to a thirteen-year-old new to climbing, he was absolutely impressive with his seeming ease at climbing anything he was presented with, whilst I was struggling up Fr5+.
1
In reply to Goucho:
Johnny, for reminding me that cragsmanship, fun and imagination rule over athleticism.
Johnny, for reminding me that cragsmanship, fun and imagination rule over athleticism.
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