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Best value link-ups in northwales?

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 zimpara 24 Jun 2016
Looking for ideas to get the best value out of a days trad, without it being too big a day,

Looking at something like-

Tennis Shoe (HS 4b)
Lazarus (S 4a)
Groove Above (S 4b)

Or

Main Wall (HS 4b)
The Parson's Nose (D)
Gambit Climb (S)

Or

Mur y Niwl (VS 4c)
Pinnacle Wall (S 4a)

Any other options? Thanks
1
 alexm198 24 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Slight adjustment:

Tennis Shoe (HS 4b)
Lazarus (S 4a)
The Arete (VD)
[walk across to Glyder Fawr]
Central Arête (VD)

Banging day out.
 oldie 25 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

After Groove Above do Grey Slab(HS) and drop into Cwm Cneifion for Manx Wall (S) if time.

Avoid at least initial walk to Main Wall by doing Direct on Dinas Mot (VS), followed by Slow ledge Climb (HS), some scrambling up to Reade's Route (VD) on Crib Goch and/or Clogwyn y Ddysgyl routes.
OP zimpara 25 Jun 2016
In reply to oldie:

Long day that.
2
 d_b 25 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Then get up earlier.
In reply to zimpara:

You should read my article from a few years ago, it has several variations on your suggestions plus a few others:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=435

 Chris Murray 26 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

We did Direct Route and Slow Ledge Climb on Dinas Mot followed by Main Wall then Gambit Climb recently. It was a fantastic day out!
 jezb1 26 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Pete's Eats
Siabod Cafe
Eric's Cafe

Maybe add the rspb cafe at South stack for the ultimate tick
 ashtond6 26 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Direct route milestone, grooved arete, down south ridge, sub cneifon, cneifon, up idwal slabs into lazerous etc
 Mick Ward 26 Jun 2016
In reply to jezb1:

I seem to have a vague memory of Wendy's, South stack cafe and Tremadog cafe (pre-Eric). The bits in-between were characterised by the steady drone of windscreen wipers. Finally back at Beris, feeling decidedly foolish. ('In the end is our beginning.') And thence to the Padarn to drown our sorrows.

Mick
 Cheese Monkey 26 Jun 2016
In reply to alexm198:

Did exactly that on Thursday! Then over the Glyders and down Bristly Ridge. Quality!
 Ramblin dave 26 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> Long day that.

Re the Idwal linkup, if you're going for mileage over difficulty, consider doing one of the VDiffs on the slabs - or even the Ordinary Route - rather than Tennis Shoe. And if you get to the top of Groove Above and don't think you've got time for Grey Slab, scrambling up the rocks above the easy way off gets you up to Cwm Cneifon for the arete, then up the end of the Gribin onto the Glyders.
 StuLade 26 Jun 2016
In reply to jezb1:

Jez, it's not often I post on here so I hope you realise how wrong you are here.

The café linkup should start with Siabod Café for breakfast, having first driven through a moody and decidedly damp Ogwen valley whilst cursing the eternally optimistic yr.no forecast. "Perhaps it's dry in the Pass?" ventured between mouthfuls of bacon and egg bap, washed down with black coffee. Windscreen wipers wiping furiously, whilst swerving drenched walkers with hoods up and heads down as they battle to get to the start of their walks. The Pass is not dry. Necks craning to check out the crags above and slivers of silver spilling down between them. Pulling through Llanberis, the wipers start to squeak. "Stop at Pete's?". "Meh. Overrated and anyhow, it'll be rammed." "Sacrilege! We're at least popping in for a quick pint of tea." "Fine, at least it will give the slate a chance to dry"....

Retreating from the high point of the day (the top of the stile heading into Bus Stop Quarry) back to the car, having been beaten back by a brief but decisive drizzle; thoughts soon turn to sustenance. "What about the Lodge Dinorwig place? Not been there yet." "Nah, save the onsight for another day. Stick with tried and true"....

Safely ensconced in the Caban with peanut butter chocolate brownie in hand, the driving rain beats against the windows as the bird feeders sway side to side. Webcams and weather forecasts are painstakingly cross referenced, the big decision awaits. "Holyhead or Tremadog? What do you reckon?" The prospect of being rained on whilst on a sea cliff, or indeed being rained off with the long walk out from Holyhead mountain makes Tremadog the obvious safe choice. The real subtext of the question though was plainly RSPB or Eric's all along....

Hurrying back to the car. Cursing the weather. Trying not to slip over in the mud. A glance back over your shoulder, then a glimmer of a smirk as you spot multiple teams beating somewhat slower retreats than yours. Eric's is quickly filling up. "Shall we have some proper food?" The connoisseur shudders. "Hmmm, perhaps a quick snack and check out Carreg Hylldrem? Could do the girdle if it's raining there too?"....

An ironic ice cream in Eric's later, you don't even bother leaving the car now you're parked below Carreg Hylldrem. "It's not far enough from Tremadog to get different weather really, is it? Still, the girdle will be dry I guess." Of course this was part of the connoisseur's sly plan all along though. "Nah, I've done the girdle too recently. Let's head to Caffi Gwynant for some proper food mate"....

Smashed avocado on toast smashed, the connoisseur is carefully considering whether following with a slice of coffee cake would be a touch excessive. "What about this one? Lockwood's Chimney? Says it can be climbed in pretty much anything." "Tradition does state it should be done in the rain. But also at night and with a large party. And it's not sporting if you're sober." The realization sets in that no crag in North Wales has escaped the monsoon and the connoisseur isn't too keen for climbing in the wet. "Beacon?"....

Chatting to the petite, smiling, ever ebullient beauty behind the café counter, the connoisseur is recounting a heroic adventure in an attempt to impress whilst a queue steadily builds behind. Now sat, nursing a coffee and sore arms, the connoisseur soon steers the conversation in a gastronomic direction. Only one choice really. "Pizza and a Pint?"....


 jezb1 27 Jun 2016
In reply to StuLade:
You're bored aren't you!

Any trip to the Lodge needs to involve sweet potato fries, they're gooood

The trouble with having Siabod and Caban in the same list is that breakfasts at both are my favourite bit (French toast and bacon at Siabod, pancakes and bacon at Caban).

Oh, avocado on toast?! Bleugh
Post edited at 07:25
 summo 27 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

milestone, E face of tryfan, Glyder Fach. Pick your grade to suit.
 StuLade 27 Jun 2016
In reply to jezb1:

Caban breakfast is good, but food is generally better there hence Siabod for brekkie. Smashed avocado (and mango) on toast comes highly recommended at Caffi Gwynant; you're plainly a philistine Jez. Heard good things about the sweet potato chips at the Lodge, will have to investigate.

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