UKC

Bancroft's Narcissus 2 at Froggatt,the short flared crack left of the upper section of Valkyrie at Froggatt.Lovers of flared jams should get on it for the connoisseur tick.Quality climbing.A bit harder than Oedipus,and you can use a rope,not needing to pad it.A good warm up for Unprintable.

Urban Sprawl . Ritch Heap's excellent fingery right hand finish to London Wall,moving right to undercuts and crimps from the traverse on the lower section.Way gnarly after battling up the first crack on LW.Ritch made it look like a path.I followed in clawing desperation,managing not to fall.Ritch has climbed 8c without publicising the fact.

Gesemini Direct.Stoney Middleton.The bouldery trad thin crack right of the start of Medusa.Bordering on English 6b and pretty poky and pumpy.Far more of an achievent than Bitterfingers.Rarely climbed.

G B H . Andy Barker's powerful short route to the left of Wizard Ridge/Old Bailey.Harder than some of the much video'd so called E6's at Burbage South.

If you can lead these,you might be on the path towards real trad.

Cocking Tor has a little gem,Paul's Small Wall.Worth the drive,if you like gnarly rounded finishes.Gowon,gowon...

In reply to paul mitchell:

Being of a pre-metric generation, I started out thinking that a 5" route would be invisible to many!

In reply to paul mitchell:


Would that be with or without banging a couple of shiny new pegs in them?

In reply to paul mitchell:




This is the only route on your list I've climbed and what a pig it is
If you're expecting respite once you get into the E1 crack you'll be sorely disappointed.



What's real trad Paul, and how do we know when we get there?

In reply to deacondeacon:

You know you've started climbing real trad when

A) You start making life or death moves above ground fall potential.
B) In a moment of panic on route you promise yourself this is the last time.

In reply to zimpara:

Thanks Zimpara, I'll bare that in mind.

In reply to paul mitchell:

....gnarly, rounded and tilting towards you finishes?

In reply to zimpara:

Can life or death moves be above anything other than groundfall potential?