UKC

Taipan dreaming ...

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 Siderunner 26 Jun 2016
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre

I'm slowly recovering from a painful and prolonged bout of Shingles, and trying to think of an objective that will inspire me to train back up and push my climbing to new levels. I thought aiming for a route or two on Taipan Wall would be a good motivator (I'm based in Sydney), so basically am looking for beta.

I'd be really interested to hear some firsthand experiences of the quality - and pro - on the easier lines there. And particularly from people for whom those routes are their limit rather than their quick warmup before the main event. I don't want to invest myself, and my limited non-baby time, only to get there and discover the real quality is in the 29-32 routes (8a-8b+) and everything else is pretty average.

To give an idea of my level, at the start of the year I made quick redpoints of a trio of (probably rather soft) 24s (7a/+) and onsighted a 23 (6c+?). After that had a layoff due to our first baby arriving in March.

Also, and this is a big one, I'm completely a sport climber these days and hate dangerous runouts unless on pretty easy terrain. On the other hand, safe big falls onto bolts could be a good mental challenge that I'm up for training towards, with the operative word being safe.

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