UKC

Got my first season in the Alps in a few weeks, what do you guys recommend rucksack wise? Been looking at 30-40 litre as I'll use it as a crag rucksack too, and probably stow as much kit as possible in it for hand luggage on the flight. I like the black diamond stuff, but apparently they're overly heavy and not all too robust, and the montane stuff seems to be either too big or too small. What do you recommend, big and heavy or small and specific, or something inbetween?

In reply to TomAlford:

Speed 40 is only 1kg which isn't too bad for a 40lt sack and it can be stripped down a bit.

In reply to TomAlford:

if its a single day route you should be able to fit everything you need in this:
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/cliff-20-ii-backpack-grey-id_8302353.html

if a multiday route then something like the crux AK-47x works quite well although the new version is very expensive.

In reply to TomAlford:

For a first season I'd recommend a 40L sack. The Lowe Alpine "Alpine Attack" bags are popular. As you gain experience you may or may not want to strip it down a bit.

In reply to TomAlford:

Alpine attack is very good. 35-45l, so plenty of capacity, carries well and not too feature heavy. Mine has been robust so far and doens't look much trashed after a couple of seasons in the alps and Scotland.

Normal provisos though that it depends on whether the pack fits your back etc....

In reply to TomAlford:
BlueIce Warthog, either size depending on what ya plannin'.

Or alpkit gourdon or the cliff mentioned above for day stuff.

In reply to TomAlford:

I use a Montane Torque 40 and it's bombproof. Some of the lighter packs might not last as long. Main thing is, Does it fit your back? The BD and Lowe Alpine packs didn't fit me so well.

In reply to TomAlford:

If the BD speed fits you, it is a really nice pack! They are generously sized, so the 30 liter works fine for multi-day stuff.

In reply to TomAlford:

Blue ice yeti, as big as you'd need but can still strip it down. Also feels like it will last until the end of days.

In reply to TomAlford:
Another vote for the BlueIce Warthog 26L (or 28L - think they've just release this as the new model to replace the 26L) Can't really think of any reason why you'd need something bigger for summer alpinism unless you're lugging a load of food/fuel/gear in to base yourself somewhere for a few days. Is light, bombproof, with every feature you need and no more. Probably cheaper to buy once out in Chamonix than back in the UK.

Also get yourself the Simond Cliff bag that the user above was recommending. It costs nothing and is the obvious bag to bring with you for everything that doesn't require lugging crampons/ice axe about. Even then, it's fine for the vast majority of day hits. Surprisingly durable as well. Had mine for 2 years now. Probably over 100 days in the mountains and still only one tiny hole in it.

In reply to fire_munki:


What he said. Also excellent Scottish winter sack and a very amenable shape for ramming stuff in.

Blue ice yeti is amazing pack. I use 30L version and can easy fit gear and food for few days.
Gear attachments are well designed. Normally I can put boots, crampons, skies, axes and rope outside all together.

My only real complain is that it has only one belt pocket. Why not two?

In reply to TomAlford:

Podsac Alpine. Take your pick from the 30 or 40. Great versatile sack available in a couple of back sizes.

Cheers for your advice guys, have ordered the little Simond pack, and still deliberating over packs, hadn't looked at those BlueIce packs, they look bomber!

In reply to TomAlford:

Agree with the other posters who suggested Blue Ice. I've got the Warthog and at 26lt it's my sac of choice summer and winter. Very well put together and is more than big enough for the alps unless you are going to bivi out then I'd go for it's bigger brother.

In reply to TomAlford:

Bargain...
http://www.needlesports.com/1882/products/blue-ice-warthog-38-litre.aspx

In reply to TomAlford:

I agree with the PodSacs Alpine, but I don't think they're the easiest to get hold of. However I find the Deuter Guide series really comfortable, simple and robust design and good with a reasonable amount of weight.

In reply to TomAlford:

I'll champion the made in Britain option.

Aiguelle Alpine

I have a 33l Cirrus I use for everything. Classic design, bombproof and you can chat to the men and women who directly benefit from your custom. It's the perfect sack for me. They do bigger options of 37 & 45l too.

In reply to TomAlford:

Really important point is that sac fits you- so back length..
After that whichever whatever- they all work!

In reply to Jasonic:


Aguille will bespoke a back length to fit you exactly. Also good at adding extra features if you wish as well: gear loops on the hip belt for instance.

In reply to TomAlford:

Alpine climbing covers many route types, grades and approaches. From the fast and light ( or slow and light in my case ) to being fully laden for a bivvy or multi day routes. Routes / terrain I feel comfortable on will often mean I only carry 3-8 wires and some slings, other routes require a larger rack. So, in my opinion, there is no one rucksack that does it all.
You will have a much better idea of what you might want / need after your first season - could you borrow a sack so you can buy from a more personally informed position?
People have made great recommendations and they are all worth listening to, but bear in mind that most people will like what they have bought because it is what they are used to and they bought it ( presumably ) for their preferred types of alpine climbing. I would also echo very strongly the comments about finding the rucksack shape / size / back / straps that are comfortable for your personal body shape. Try sacks on with as many ropes or other heavy gear as you can stuff into it.
I would recommend turning the question around from 'what rucksack should I buy?' to 'what features do I want from the rucksack' and then look for a sack that most closely fits the bill. As a part of this, gather what gear you would take on an alpine route ( including any current bivvy gear you would use, remember food and water ) and put it into different sizes of rucksack to see what size sack you currently need. Remember, as you gain experience you may find you can use smaller / lighter rucksack, sleeping mat, stove, ropes, technical equipment etc..
By doing this I have ended up using two different sacks for the climbing I do:

1) A very light 25l sack for day routes or when I don't need to carry much. Minimal features, basic waist strap that doesn't get in the way of harness, very comfortable slim and stable for use on more technical rock climbs, quick and easy access whilst at climbing stances. Can stow rope / axes easily. Single pocket for photocopy of guidebook / route. Also can fold away into a small unit to be carried in my second pack if appropriate. Currently I use a Patagonia 25l Ascensionist for this. However, compromise is that it wouldn't last long if I used it in too many Chamonix chimneys!

2) A larger more robust 35 - 45/50 litre sack that can hold all the technical gear plus bivvy gear / food for longer / harder routes or where I choose to bivvy instead of using huts . This needs to feel comfortable when fully loaded so requires broader waist straps and various tension straps. I prefer a floating lid for greater versatility. Even better is a sack that can then be stripped down. For example removing the lid, removing the broad waist strap leaving a basic one in its place, removing back plate / support so you end up with a lighter ( albeit shapeless ) bag that weighs around 600 - 900 grammes. Many so called alpine packs, in my opinion, have more features than you need and weigh well over a kilo. Of course, you can also cut stuff off! At the moment I have one of the old school Pod Black Ice for this.

So, in conclusion, go try lots of sacks from as many mates and in as many different shops as possible. If you can wait, consider the European shops in the alpine areas you are going to - often lots more variety. And don't forget to match the colour with the rest of your kit for that experienced and stylish alpine climber look in your photos!
Sorry about lengthy reply, sitting out a storm in Chamonix with nothing better to do! Enjoy your first season...