UKC

New DMM ropes

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 Ed Booth 29 Jun 2016
Anybody used any of the new range dmm single ropes, specifically the crux or orbit? In specific of sport climbing?
I have some statements from a few years ago which seemed to wear pretty well but the orange 9.2 performance rope they did last year (can't remember the name) seemed to wear really easily when dogging stuff. I had one session taking a few short falls on some draws whilst working short sections and the furriness started showing the core through. Ive had similar poor wear with beal ropes.
The Edelweiss unicore 9.2 ropes seem to furry very quickly under in the few end metres.
I guess this will always be the case with new thinner sport ropes.
Does anybody have any other recommendations for good sport ropes? best of both world lightweight workhorses or the best balance.
Cheers Ed
 whenry 29 Jun 2016
In reply to Ed Booth:

We went out to Kaly last year with two new ropes - a Mammut Revelation 9.2mm, and an Edelrid Anniversary 9.8mm. The Edelrid seemed slicker than the Mammut, about the same diameter (despite the official stats), and after two and a half weeks of redpointing with them seemed to be in slightly better nick (though both had plenty of life left in them). After two weeks we all preferred the Edelrid - though initially it was pretty slippy.

Henry
In reply to Ed Booth:

I've just got the zone 9.8. Haven't used it too much but looking good so far. My mate has the old version and it's still going strong and he gives it some serious abuse!
 jezb1 29 Jun 2016
In reply to Ed Booth:

I've got a crux 9.1, seems great so far, but can't comment on its longevity.
 sean1 30 Jun 2016
In reply to Ed Booth:

If you are wanting a lightish dogging workhorse type rope stick to the 9.8mm range. I have had a few Millet TRX 9.8mm ropes over the years which have taken a lot of abuse and lasted really well.
OP Ed Booth 02 Jul 2016
In reply to jezb1:

Cool, may well contact in you in a month or so and get a wear update if you don't mind. cheers Ed
 hannahyeah 15 Jul 2016
In reply to jezb1:

hey, how's the crux been for durability?
am thinking of using it mainly as a half rope for trad but with flexibility to use it alone occasionally. not planning to use it as a sport rope. just deciding whether to go for the crux for added flexibility or just stick to the prophet 8.5mm half
cheers
 jezb1 15 Jul 2016
In reply to hannahyeah:

I'm afraid I've not done much sport lately, all trad, and I use DMM 9.8s for work, so it hasn't been out much at all..

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